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Plow has zero resistance

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by netboy541, Feb 5, 2010.

  1. netboy541

    netboy541 Junior Member
    Messages: 11

    Hello folks.

    I have a meyer E60 (i think!) with a 8ft plow attached to my 93 bronco.

    Tonight has been the night from hell. I spent HOURS fixing my truck because the thing wouldn't start, and it turned out to be a bad spark plug wire. After I fixed that, I raised the blade up, backed my truck out of it's home, and dropped the blade on the driveway. Made a pass, and when I was ready to lift the blade up, I pressed the up button, and nothing happened. I tried the left and right, nothing happened either.

    I backed up a little, and got out of the truck, and was able to move the blade with my hands from side to side.

    I have no earthly clue what could be the problem. I replaced the B coil a few months back because it failed me in my test before the season came. I had my other half hop in the truck and press the buttons, and i checked the coils, and the coils are being energized. I checked the fluids and that looked fine. The motor that drives it is brand new, so i don't think it's the culprit either, but when I press the buttons, I hear the relay turn on, but I don't hear the motor turn, so I am very confused as to what could be wrong.

    I didn't hit anything with the blade, or anything crazy.... I just can't figure it out!

    I started working on this truck at 6 oclock. It's 11:37 and I'm still working on it.

    as I type this out, I'm starting to think the motor may be at fault....

    Any help would be appreciated!
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2010
  2. wsmm

    wsmm Member
    Messages: 80

    Plow problem

    Is the motor grounded good? Do you have power to the terminal on the motor? If not check power in and out of your solenoid under the hood.
  3. netboy541

    netboy541 Junior Member
    Messages: 11

    I replaced the solenoid and that didn't fix it. tonight, I said I'd try again and got the plow to come off the ground, but now i can't get it to go back down. it moved from side to side, and up, and then no life.

    I am so lost as to what could be the problem. The coils are energizing, and I hear the solonoid kicking on, the ground is good, i even ran a jumper cable from the ground straight to the battery, still, same thing.

    Any help would be appreciated. We have another round coming tomorrow night and I would really like to have this damn thing working as it should instead of fighting it.
  4. clark lawn

    clark lawn PlowSite.com Addict
    from NE ohio
    Messages: 1,233

    smack the motor with a hammer and see if that helps. i have to do that all the time
  5. netboy541

    netboy541 Junior Member
    Messages: 11

    I'm beginning to think maybe the ram is sticking.....

    I honestly don't know tho. When I put 12v straight to the motor, it moves to the left, as it should because no coils are energized. So, the motor isn't the problem. Could it be a cabling issue?
  6. theplowmeister

    theplowmeister 2000 Club Member
    from MA
    Messages: 2,511

    The clue is he can move the plow from side to side by hand! I presume you mean angle the plow by hand. you have a pressure relief valve and or a crossover valve stuck open. the motor will run and nothing will happen because the fluid will go strait to the reservoir. you may have introduced dirt or broken o rings pieces when you replaced the valve. take ALL the valves out and clean the valve body, flush the rest of the system out too.
  7. netboy541

    netboy541 Junior Member
    Messages: 11

    The first thing I thought is that one of the pressure relief valves where stuck open because I could angle the plow by pushing it with my hands........ normally it's hard as a rock and won't budge, so I figured some valve could be stuck open somwhere, I just don't know where to even start to check. Now I just have to figure out how to get to the valves! Are they under the coils?

    Sorry for asking "dumb" questions. I've looked at pictures showing how to take it apart and some of the pictures I see match, and some don't. I have an Meyer E-60, but the block where the angling arm connectors are aren't in the same place... they are right smack on the top front instead of one on the front and one on the back or side ....

    What makes this suck even more is I have no garage to work on it, so I have to work on it in the wind and cold. :(
  8. theplowmeister

    theplowmeister 2000 Club Member
    from MA
    Messages: 2,511

    the motor does not run when you give it a command (up left right)
    if you energize the motor the plow moves

    you can angle the plow by hand

    I think you have a more than one problem. the motor not running is the solenoid (clicking, but pump wont run, If you bypass the solenoid the pump runs.)

    Id start with that easy to fix.
  9. netboy541

    netboy541 Junior Member
    Messages: 11

    the solenoid is brand new. I bought it fresh from the parts house day before yesterday. Does the same exact thing as the one I had in there before.... The only difference is this one looks different, but the guy told me they are the same thing...

    I may just go and get another one that matches the old one... 2 poles for the battery lines and one to the plow. this one I have has 2 other poles beside the two for the battery...
  10. theplowmeister

    theplowmeister 2000 Club Member
    from MA
    Messages: 2,511

    Look, you can go replacing parts eventual you may find the problem. You need to learn how to diagnose problems. The shape of the relay HAS NO EFFECT ON how it works.

    the relay has 3 or 4 wires going to it. 2 big wires 1 or 2 small wires
    Get a volt meter.
    measure the battery voltage

    with the voltmeter put 1 lead on the BATTERY ground make a good connection.
    test 1
    have someone activate the plow to lift.
    with the other voltmeter lead measure the voltage to the posts that the small wires go to. One post should read 12 volts the other one should read nearly zero If you get 12V at both of the small wire posts you have a bad ground on one of the small wires. One of the small wires is from the controller and is 12 volts, the other wire is ground.
    If your solenoid has 3 wires 2 big ones and 1 small, then the small one it 12 V from the controller and the ground is through the case. Then measure from the case if you get 12V then the case is not grounded.

    Test 2
    Measure the voltage from the POST that on the relay that has the wire from the battery.
    what is the voltage it should be the same as the battery voltage. if not then you have a bad wire or connection on that wire

    test 3
    now measure the voltage from the WIRE end of the wire going to the pump motor and ground. if the pump motor is running it will be about 1 volt less than the battery voltage. if it is a lot less, then you may have a seized pump or motor (in which case the wire going to the pump will get hot), or a bad connection, or bad relay. (I know its new SO WHAT! Ive seen brand new parts that are broken)

    If the voltage its the same as battery voltage then you have an open circuit someplace.

    test 4
    measure the voltage at the pump motor stud to the solenoid stud.
    if its more than 1/2 volt you have a bad connector or wire or corroded connector to wire joint.

    test 5
    with the controller still on lift, measure the voltage from the pump motor to battery ground. (voltmeter leads, one on battery ground one on A GOOD CLEAN METAL spot on the pump motor, scrape a clean spot if you have to). voltage should be under 2 volts. If not bad ground. either wire at the pump end or the connector plug or the the truck side ground.

    you should have 12 v on all wires going to the pump motor and 0 volts going from ground on the pump .

    I dont know if this heps or only confuses you more.
    good luck