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Plow goes left/right up BUT NO down...

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by dodgedump, Jan 16, 2006.

  1. dodgedump

    dodgedump Member
    from MASS
    Messages: 38

    My new problem is this. The plow will go up right/left but not down. If I hit the right or left toggle and press the down at the same time then it goes down. I dont have to hold the right/left the whole time Im pushing down just at the beginning to get it started. If I hit down I just hear a click. Is the solenoid sticking? It was real cold yesterday.

    Last night I got it to go down fine. Thanks
     
  2. clark lawn

    clark lawn PlowSite.com Addict
    from NE ohio
    Messages: 1,233

    again what kind of plow
     
  3. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    Keep running in ONE thread- it'ss get too confuseing if you keep adding new threads for each issue with this setup, especially since you'll have to describe your setup each time......
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2006
  4. fernalddude

    fernalddude PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,105

    cpw link

    check the electrical connections for voltage first. on the link find the model or search for the brand plow http://www.centralparts.com/Literature.aspx find the drawing if you have the voltage then it is mech prob or water in fluid
     
  5. dodgedump

    dodgedump Member
    from MASS
    Messages: 38

    I think I might know the problem. I have a return line on the valve setup. If I push the up button the piston goes up and when I release it the extra fluid goes through the return line. I have a feeling that without pressure in the valve itself, the return (down) valve is not opening enough. When I push up the extra fluid causes presure in the return valve and when I hit down it keeps the valve open. I am going to try to plug my return line and push the down to see if this works. I know the down solenoid is working because it clicks when I hit down. Where would there be an adjustment for the valves?Thanks for the help so far. I can deal with hitting up then down fast and holding down, I just dont want to eventually break something doing it this way.
     
  6. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    There may not be adjustment for those valves- without knowing who made them it's tough to say what they were actually intended for.

    The other possibility is the return is not opening at all and it's useing the pop-off pressure relief valve to bypass when moving in other directions.

    There is usually a pressure relief valve incase pressure is exceeded to a safety factor to avoid damage- remote possibility but one none the less.
     
  7. dodgedump

    dodgedump Member
    from MASS
    Messages: 38

    I ran my return to the top of the pump instead of the bottom. I think that may be the problem. I cant get the plug out because it was rusted and I dont want to break it. Im going to run the return to a soda bottle filed with fluid and put the bottle upside down to see if thats the problem. Can I rum my setup with NO return. My dump doesnt have a return.
     
  8. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    The dump is a single acting cylinder system. It works like this-

    Engage pump and close valve to direct fluid into the dump lift ram which lifts the bed. Then when you stop lifting and hit the "down", which is probabily a cable operated valve which opens (the same valve that closes in the last sentence) and allows the fluid in the cylinder the go back out the way it came in- gravity and the weight of the bed push the cylinder back down.

    If the valve body you bought has a single acting float valve you don;t need a return. since it's electric it needs to have the lift circuit wired to open when the pump engages to raise the blade, then open Without the pump engaging to let the blade fall, and it should remain open (float) to let the blade follow ground contours. (just as a loader bucket does) The lift circuit's valve MUST then have a dual coil soliniod- one to pull and the other to hold it open- or it must be continous duty to pull and hold for long periods of time without burning up.


    The more I think about it the more I think that's the problem, not the return, as you have an electric power pack system so the pump is not always running. You mentioned sometimes it will work if you press up then down- up opens the valve and engages the pump- down seems to be disconnecting the pump (and holding the solinoid open?) but down on it's own doesn;t seem to be opening the valve as it should.
     
  9. dodgedump

    dodgedump Member
    from MASS
    Messages: 38

    My dump is electric over hydraulic and has an electric switch. The only time that down worked was when I had the dump return closed off. I plugged it because I had to go pick up a fitting. The next day I hooked up the return and the down doesnt work thats why I was rechecking electrical connections etc. I am going to close off the return again and see if the down works.
    MY Question:

    Is it ok to run this system without a return. If so thats the problem I guess. Thanks for all the help!
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2006
  10. wirenut

    wirenut Senior Member
    from nh
    Messages: 511

    you need power to open the valve....with no power on it
    it will be closed, i would think....jmo
     
  11. dodgedump

    dodgedump Member
    from MASS
    Messages: 38

    I tried with no return and busted a hose?? How do I open the valve. When I hit down I hear it click. Thanks Ive been hitting up then down fast to get it to work.