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Pics of my new backblade/rear plow/ pull plow

Discussion in 'Equipment, Tools & Vehicle Pictures' started by firstclasslawn, Nov 14, 2005.

  1. Watch out daniels, this thing puts you to SHAME! Its 8'6" wide with 30" side wings. Its on its way to the powdercoater right now! After that i will bolt on the cutting edges and it will be ready.

    image0001.jpg
     
  2. More pics

    More pics of that HUGE thing!

    image0002.jpg
     
  3. Some more yet

    Some more pics yet

    image0003.jpg
     
  4. one more

    This is the last one for now
     
  5. oops try again

    oops i shall try again!

    image0004.jpg
     
  6. GSORK

    GSORK Senior Member
    Messages: 128

    Nice job so far!! What are you going to do for the wing wear guards?How does it mount to your truck? What kind of control unit and pump are you using?How much has it cost so far and what do you think the final cost will be? Keep us posted
     
  7. J & B Lawncare

    J & B Lawncare Member
    Messages: 88

    ?

    Are you keeping the box wing corners square? Is the a possiblitly that when draging a paved driveway that is not level that the corners will gouge line into the surface? Just a thought.

    Thanks

    J & B Lawncare
     
  8. Runner

    Runner Senior Member
    Messages: 957

    That's kind of what I was thinking...maybe some sort of ski-like skids. That is NICE, though. Nice job!
     
  9. Actually

    Actually theres no cutting edges on it yet, the back is 1/2 " steel and the two side wings will have 1.5" thick RUBBER cause then it can flex over the bumps. So far i have $300 into steel and $200 to powedercoat it, I already had the pump and hydrolic cylinder
     
  10. DBL

    DBL PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,310

    very nice looking for homemade good job
     
  11. Jon Geer

    Jon Geer Member
    Messages: 834

    Looks good, it could use some more reinforcements in the blade though. It also could use some rounding of the corners. Plus, make sure the angle of the side plates are tipped up in the front when you pull down the approach of a drive. Make sure the cylinder angle is correct also, that cylider placement looks suseptable to breaking.

    Just my 2 pennies.
     
  12. plow

    the front of the wings are about 3/4" higher than the wear bar and the cylinder shouldn't be a problem cause the lift framing is what was on my old 7'6" back blade that was built by b&b, i just moved teh "lift framing" to my new plow
     
  13. 3/16th

    I had the moldboard made with 3/16th rather than 1/8th so i thought that the support should be good. With the thicker moldboard, should i still put more bracing?
     
  14. Lawnboy67

    Lawnboy67 Junior Member
    Messages: 22

    John,
    I see a cpl things I question.......( I am no pro like Jon Geer) The lift arms have no adjustment to them? The sides should be rounded or cut on angles for a cpl reasons, one is the angle of the blade with down pressure, and second is for safety. Could cut yourself pretty good on that corner.

    Where is the spring bar? When that blade gets bumped or catches something it will tilt and you cant adjust it.

    You have the lift cyl. going to the angle on the lift support and not the blade why??? I know B & B and Ebling are all going straight to the blade. You have a couple from Ebling right?

    Just some thoughts.

    Brian
     
  15. Lawnboy67

    Lawnboy67 Junior Member
    Messages: 22

    FYI I was told 8'6 is too big for roads? Dont get some mean DOT on you
     
  16. well here it goes

    I will try to get to all the questions you had.....the legal limit IS 8'6", and thats where i am at. If you measure a TON of guys are actually over that. I will prolly be rounding the top corners off those wings.....not really sure what you mean about the "spring bar"......and the arms don't need to be adjustable because i have it welded in the proper position.....as for the lift cylinder placement. I dont know if there is an advatage to attachign it to the plow or the arms. all i know is this. that truck was outfitted by B&B about 4 winters ago and it had a 7.5 back blade on it. I unbolted it from the lift arms and bolted on this new one it built so i didnt mess with any of the lift arms at all!
     
  17. O yeah

    because the plow is a 4 point hookup, the angle of the blade changes ever so slightly with down pressure and the rubber cutting edges that are going on the sidewings should cure that!
     
  18. dirt digger

    dirt digger Senior Member
    Messages: 619

    wheres your license plate?
     
  19. ON the bumper

    Bolted to the drivers side of the bumper RIGHT BEHIND THE PLOW.....oops
     
  20. Lawnboy67

    Lawnboy67 Junior Member
    Messages: 22

    John,

    The blade looks good. Thanks for letting me know about the 8'6". The deal with the lift cyl. going to the blade is for strength. you are lifting the blade. why not hook up to it rather than the arms. if you look at any blade that has the set up like yours, after a cpl seasons ( if that) the angle iron is bent at the cyl. it happens from the pressure. and a spring bar is a piece of steel about 3 inches wide about 3/8 thick that is rounded and it replaces where you have the cyl. hooked up. it has 4 bolts that hold it, 2 on each side. if you catch something or back into something and twist your blade this peice will spring it back, other wise just lower it, loosen bolts and it will settle then retighten.

    Just helping on your ideas. I use to build all my own, been through the trials of learning.

    Brian
    Still looks good !!!!