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parts replacement

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by eamims, May 21, 2002.

  1. eamims

    eamims Junior Member
    Messages: 20

    I just bought a 1977 Bonanza with some rust on the fenders and a little on the back right bed side. I can patch the back but the fenders are going to have to be replaced. I am a complete newbie when it comes to truck repair, so I need to know if the replacement fenders from JCWhitney or other aftermarket internet shops will suffice (not a 'show' truck, just a user truck). Or do I have to search around for OEM parts...and where? Any comments/recommendations on quality of replacement parts would be appreciated.
     
  2. Chuck Smith

    Chuck Smith 2000 Club Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 2,317

    IF you can find them, OEM fenders sell for about $500 each, not including the inner fenders (wheel wells). I suggest JC Whitney.

    ~Chuck
     
  3. eamims

    eamims Junior Member
    Messages: 20

    If anyone cares, I bought new fenders, inner fenders, and weatherstripping from JCWhitney...good prices and delivered fast. And today I recieved my bedsides (8'), bed end, wheelwells and tailgate from LMC. Good prices and only $80 shipping for a *huge* box (though it's packed with an insane amount of foam peanuts which now decorate my backyard). As far as I can tell, all of the parts are made by the same company in Asia. If you go this route, you should expect that the parts will *not* be perfect. They will have slight bumps and bruises, but nothing major.
     
  4. Chuck Smith

    Chuck Smith 2000 Club Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 2,317

    Little dents and dings are normal and expected in cases where a lot of shipping is involved. Easily fixed with Nitro-Stan.

    As far as fit, even GM uses shims to align fenders.....

    Glad to hear your restoration is going well.

    ~Chuck
     
  5. 85chevy3/4

    85chevy3/4 Junior Member
    Messages: 8

    What is nitro-stan? Does it remove dents and dings?
     
  6. Chuck Smith

    Chuck Smith 2000 Club Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 2,317

    Nitro-Stan is a brand of putty that is typically used after Bondo. Nitro-Stan should not be built up more than 1/8". It dries VERY FAST, so you really can't work it too much like Bondo. 3M has a teal colored product just like it. Not sure what they call it. Nitro-Stan is the old fashoined red putty.......... Apply, wet sand, prime, look at it, re-apply, wet sand, prime, until it is smooooooth. Remember, painting and body work is 90% preparation, and 10% application.

    ~Chuck
     
  7. 85chevy3/4

    85chevy3/4 Junior Member
    Messages: 8

    Thankyou for letting me know about nitro-stan. It sounds like some good stuff. I found out that painting is 90% prep last month when I painted my truck. I had never done any body work or painted a vehicle. It turned out really well but there are some imprefections that just bug the hell out of me. I can see where I sanded too much on some of the edges and not enough on others. I believe that I will paint it again sometime. I still need to wet sand and polish it out to a brilliant shine but now it looks pretty good. I should have spent more time prepping it but I was in a hurry to get it done. I spent 2 days sanding the body, one day sanblasting the frame, and 2 days to paint the body and frame. You can check out my pics at http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/jjtdiceman I bought the truck 3 months ago from an auction. It was a real piece. I've replaced everything on it body wise or interior. Now I'm cracking into the motor with new carb, heads, intake, exhaust, and chome dressup parts. It never ends.
     
  8. Pelican

    Pelican 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,075

    Nitro-Stan is also called "Red Lead" in the industry, and is also used to feather in Bondo repairs to the original metal.

    I've had problems in the past with Jap replacement panels not matching the lines of OEM, but found them suitable for "work trucks". If you're doing a restoration of something you want real close to perfect, stick to OEM.