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Overheating with plow on...

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by robhampton1, Oct 17, 2003.

  1. robhampton1

    robhampton1 Junior Member
    Messages: 8

    I have quite a dilema. I got a job with a company near Vail, CO and they are going to show me the ropes. It's going to be my first season and I am looking forward to it.
    The catch is that I am in Minnesota and have to drive my truck out there by Nov. 1st. I can't drive on the freeway for more than 15 - 20 minutes before I start overheating because the plow is blocking the air to the radiator. Before you guys start teasing the newbie, I have to say that I know the truck isn't meant to drive long distances with the plow on. I can't fit the blade in the back and still put my topper on, and fit the few belongings I am going to be bringing.
    I am wondering if you guys have any ideas on how I can get more air to the radiator without running the blade 4 inches off the ground.
    I have a 1,000 mile trip and I don't want to have to drive it going 45mph.

    I have a 1978 Chevy K20 with 350/quadrajet combo. 8.5mpg but I am determined :D

    Thanks for your help,
  2. snowjoker

    snowjoker Senior Member
    Messages: 283

    You could add an electric fan, or bigger radaitor, but more than likely since you cant take the plow off you will probabbly end up driving with the plow low to the ground.
  3. plowking35

    plowking35 2000 Club Member
    from SE CT
    Messages: 2,923

    Rent a trailer to tow the plow and perhaps a few other belongings.
  4. Pelican

    Pelican 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,075

    If you're running in the straight position, try angling it full to one side. This will let more air to the radiator.
  5. wxmn6

    wxmn6 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,037

    I would try to angle the plow (suggest angling it to the right) but not all the way to right, because you should also try to lower the plow down some to allow some air to flow through the radiator. If you angle the plow all the way to one side, and really lower the blade, the bottom corner of blade could catch the pavement if you run over a bump. Just keep the lower part of corner at least 4" high. That should help with that overheating problem you are having.
  6. Adams plowing

    Adams plowing Senior Member
    Messages: 195

    i'd have to agree with plowking a trailer might be the best way to go especially if you dont want to run the plow low to the ground. If you decide to go the trailer way you might check somewhere like tractor supply atleast up here they run 4' X8" trailers for a few hundred dollars. last time i rented a u-hall trailer it cost me about what i would have spent to buy one. and in your case you would have to figure on the cost to get it there and back. and which one would be cheaper. but if you dont want to spend the money on a trailer then just run it low and angled.

  7. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    What about taking the a-frame off so you can fit the plow in the back of the truck.I'ts not that hard to do.
  8. hyperpack

    hyperpack Senior Member
    Messages: 108

    Half Trippin

    Just a thought, If you release some tension or remove the trip springs and somehow block the blade in about the half tripped position and secure it maybe with a chain and binder it would lower the top of the plow without putting the cutting edge much lower.
    It would transfer a little weight farther foreward but would be easy to test drive around home to see how it handles.
    Sounds like a fun trip.
  9. griffithtlc

    griffithtlc Senior Member
    Messages: 213

    What about an air-foil? Does anybody on here run one? They seem like they would do what they are designed to. What do you guys think? I am pondering on making one for the Blizzard, just incase.
  10. robhampton1

    robhampton1 Junior Member
    Messages: 8

    I would like to know more about the air foil. I considered having one built but I don't think I have enough time.

    I do angle the blade when I have it up, and it helps some. I am wondering if anyone is familiar with the laws regarding how low you can have the blade when driving. I'm sure with a little research I could find out but thought I would try.

    I also like the idea of loosening a couple of the springs and then trying to tie down the blade to change the angle.

    You guys have given me a lot of good ideas and I appreciate it. I have just enough money to get an apartment once I get out there so I am trying to stay away from buying or renting a trailer but I might have to do it.

    My other option is to find somewhere up here to store the blade since I will be using their equipment when I get out there.

    This is a great site though. Keep up the good work :drinkup:
  11. Adams plowing

    Adams plowing Senior Member
    Messages: 195

    If you dont need your blade then i would definatly recomend just finding somewhere to store it where your at its alot less hassle than having to tote it around with you seeing as your not even going to need it
  12. Little Jay

    Little Jay Senior Member
    Messages: 101

    take the a-frame off and lug it in the back.
    otherwise, i did do something years back and should have developed it, patented it,and called it an air foil...
    go to your harware store, buy a few feet of clothes dryer 4 inch shinny, bendable tubing and some zip ties. zip tie two peices to your plow headlights and bend them down and back to your radiator, and zip tie the back end of the tubing to your grill in front of the radior. cold air that flows over your blade, near the blade lights, passes thru the tubing and right into your radiator..if you secure it enough it will hold up for a long time.. i ran it on two trucks for a few years and it works well.
    or take it apart, thro it in yur bed and get better mpg.
  13. EZSnow

    EZSnow Senior Member
    Messages: 205

    why not carry it down in the weeds? I'm not sure how many will admit to it, but if you ever bump the controller and release your blade at 55mph:eek: you'd probably be suprised at how little of an impact it is. Granted, if it were to happen it the split second that it hits there was an expansion joint or something- no good. Enough of my shortcomings.

    If you just try to gradually work it down lower and lower, sooner or later you'll hit a big bump and get a *tap* out of it... too low! I found that my chevy 2500 would carry the plow at 3" without any trouble- or ballast.

    Ive also heard that the older 'box' chevys for some reason work better with the blade turned one way but not the other... try- you might like it.

    BTW- a blade hitting clean pavement at 55 in the dark is quite a light show- believe me!!
  14. robhampton1

    robhampton1 Junior Member
    Messages: 8

    LOL EZSNOW, my little girl bumped the joystick :nono: and dropped the blade in the city. Loud, but no damage. I can run the plow at 3" but I know I'm going to get pulled over.

    I like the idea of the dryer vent tubing and I'm going to give it a shot. The other option is to say :realmad: it all and just drive the Blazer out there. I'd like to have a back up truck just in case the other two break, but I'll figure out a way to deal with it.

    The idea I had for an air foil was to take a two foot wide piece of metal that's as long as the blade, have it curved so it catches the air off the blade and angles it back to the radiator. Bolt it onto the top of the plow and there you go.

    Paint sucks, but I tried to sketch it. Not sure if the file is attaching but I tried.

    Attached Files:

  15. EZSnow

    EZSnow Senior Member
    Messages: 205

    Glad to see someone else admit to sharing my misfortune!

    I think full-width is way overkill. We need air, but not to the headlights. And if it curls down in front of the blade, it will block its own airflow. You need to grab fresh air from above the plow and direct it into the radiator.

    An aerodynamic engineer I'm not, but I'd guess that the air coming off the plow is either swirling to the side of the truck or the hood, but creating a void/vacuum/not enough air in front of the grille. If you stop that upward flow with a flat piece of sheet angled slightly down to the back, you should get cool.

    Blizzard has a manufactured airfoil for their plows that looks pretty simple.

    How bout a hitch rack from northern tool?
  16. JohnnyU

    JohnnyU 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,037

    How about just a rubber deflector? Worked for me.
  17. NoStockBikes!!

    NoStockBikes!! Senior Member
    Messages: 215

    Hell dude, if you don't need it out there, I'd leave it here somewhere... Don't look at me, though. The wife would kill me. :D
  18. seville009

    seville009 Senior Member
    from CNY
    Messages: 701

    When I was at the dealer getting my plow installed, the Snoway rep was there; this was in September - mid 70's for temperatures.

    He was driving a truck with the plow assembly on, but just the moldboard off, so he still have the moldboard frame, etc on (almost as though he had a super clear moldboard on it).

    That may be one option - if you can/want to take the moldboard off and just carry that in the back.
  19. robhampton1

    robhampton1 Junior Member
    Messages: 8

    I'm surprised there have been so many responses. I thought you guys would just laugh at the newbie and leave it at that. It's nice to see people willing to help.

    I bought some flexible vent tubing and I'm going to give that a shot tonight to see if I can get enough air in there. If it doesn't work, you guys have offered some great suggestions.

    What's this hitch rack at Northern Tool? I've never heard of one but I know how to get there.

    Thanks again you guys and I hope you have a great season in MN this year.:drinkup:

    But for me, it's two more days and a wake up before D-Day (start out to Colorado.)
  20. campi

    campi Member
    Messages: 53

    over heating

    i like the idear of the dryer vent tubing:drinkup: just like ram induction for a plow!! good thinking on your part!!!! Campi!!!!!