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Old dual 55W sealed-beams on rotator - good?

Discussion in 'Strobe Lighting' started by J-Quad, Oct 12, 2009.

  1. J-Quad

    J-Quad Member
    Messages: 95

    It came off of a '73 Road Commission County dumptruck.
    Large and bulky, but free. It has two rotating sealed beam bulbs.

    I'd mount it on my Jeep which I do some snowplowing with. It does currently work...
    but I'm hesitate to figure out a mount and wire it into a fused switch (I imagine it'll draw LOTS of juice!).
    Has anyone messed with these old lights and had continued success with them?

    Thanks!
    J-Quad :cool:
     
  2. KL&M Snow Div.

    KL&M Snow Div. PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,616

    Model or anything like that?
     
  3. J-Quad

    J-Quad Member
    Messages: 95

    Yeah, sorry I should have included it in my original post. :eek:

    I didn't measure it, but I'd say it's about 8" in diameter, with an amber dome that stands above the 4" metal base approximately another 6-8".


    There is a metal tag riveted on the side of the base that reads:

    Southern VP
    Clearwater, FLA 33540
    No. 530
    SAE-W3-79


    Inside, on the base, it has two GE clear sealed beam bulbs, that look to be approx. 4" diameter. They are #GE-7400 bulbs. Below the bulbs is a Bosch motor that turns a gearbox which has a shaft extending up between the two bulbs. They turn counter-clockwise at maybe 60 rpms? ........ If I clip my battery charger to it , red on the single wire and black on the base, the bulbs will light and rotate. It is quiet and seems to be happy. There is a stamping on the motor 'do not oil'.....

    Does that sound familiar?

    Can someone tell me if /how to hook my VOM to it while it's running to measure the current it's using? That would give me an idea as to what gage wire I should use and what size fuse to install inline.......

    Thanks!
    J-Quad
     
  4. KL&M Snow Div.

    KL&M Snow Div. PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,616

    The way I'd do it. Hook it to your truck battery and then go to the bar where the hot wire first makes contact with the bar. Hook your positive from your vom to that first hot wire and the negative to the base. I think that would work. Any pictures of the bar? Sounds like an ole reliable though haha
     
  5. J-Quad

    J-Quad Member
    Messages: 95

    I'm a dumby.......What is the BAR you're talking about?

    J-Quad :dizzy::confused:
     
  6. cfdeng7

    cfdeng7 Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 376

    he means the light. like a light BAR
     
  7. J-Quad

    J-Quad Member
    Messages: 95

    Ahh, yeah, there isn't any light bar. It's just a single, round light fixture.

    I haven't figured out or decided just how would be the best way of mounting it. I was thinking of building some sort of a pedestal-type pole standing off of my rear bumper, extending up over the roof line. But then I'd want to have some sort of bracket coming off my fiberglass cap / roof to brace the light pole since it would stand up there nearly 5 ft.....and would likely need some sort of a brace or it would crack at the base over time. However, I'm not really thrilled with the idea of drilling holes in my fiberglass cap and bolting some sort of brace off of it. So,,,, maybe if I have some sort of a shorter light pedestal bolted to the windshield frame, then I could just run the wire in the vent window and across the dash and plug into the cigar lighter....I just don't know what will work the best for me yet.

    As far as determining the amount of voltage this light will want, I was thinking maybe I could do this right on my bench by simply clipping my VOM leads between the power source (for now, my battery charger) and the light hot wire, and have the ground wire off the charger clipped to the metal light base. Would that work or would I burn up my light, VOM and/or the charger ??

    (I wish I could learn & retain some of the electrical tips that I read about here... :dizzy: :angry: )

    Thanks in Advance for all the advice/help, Guys! :)
    J-Quad :cool:
     
  8. Niteman9

    Niteman9 Senior Member
    Messages: 165

    If you want to measure the current draw you need to put the meter in series with the power wire. Most meters have the red lead connected to a different spot to measure current. Once the leads have been moved on meter connect the red lead on meter to battery black lead to power wire on the light. Then hook up the base of the light to the black wire on the battery.

    Or two 55 watt lights will draw 110 watts. 110 watts = 14 volts X Current
    Current = 110 watts/14 volts
    Current = 7.85 amps

    Motor should draw more than 5 amps

    Total 12 - 13 amps at most.

    I would say run a 15 amp fuse.
     
  9. J-Quad

    J-Quad Member
    Messages: 95

    Thanks, Niteman9 !

    That is what I've been looking for........
    I'll print off your directions and do as you say... then I'll report back.

    Thanks again!
    J-Quad :cool:
     
  10. cfdeng7

    cfdeng7 Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 376

    what about mounting it on ur spare tire rack? then it would only have to be a few feet not 5
     
  11. J-Quad

    J-Quad Member
    Messages: 95

    Yes, but my spare tire rack is no longer on the Jeep rear gate. I removed the tire and it's bracketry to allow better visibility out the back window, less hassle when using the back gate, to reduce the weight hanging off of the gate itself and to ease cleaning the rear of the heep.

    I do still have the rack though,,, I may look at it again and see if it would be an easier route to mount a short pedestal for the light.

    Thanks for reminding me of that option!

    J-Quad :cool: