1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

Old Cable style Western

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by jfleming, Nov 21, 2014.

  1. jfleming

    jfleming Member
    Messages: 57

    So what gives the lift cyclinder the power/strenght to lift the plow under a snow load. Currently the plow functions really well as far as the angle and lift goes as a dry run in the garge or with no snow load. Last night we had the lightest 5" of snow ever and the plow would struggle when lifting at the pile, it does lift just slowly. I understand when it is a wet heavy snow fall, but with this light fluffy snow I would not think it should struggle...

    Any advise would be appreciate....

    thanks
     
  2. johnhenry1933

    johnhenry1933 Senior Member
    Messages: 256

    Know that left, right and down strokes are easy on the hydraulics, up is the hardest. I would check the fluid and screen (for proper level, viscosity, cleanliness, and that the screen is not clogged), that the gland nut on the cylinder is not too tight, and then the valve (S3 on yours I believe).
     
  3. kimber750

    kimber750 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,677

    You need to do pressure test then adjust it accordingly. If unable to get pressure up to specs it may time to rebuild or replace the pump.


    PS johnhenry, there is no S3 on cable pump.
     
  4. johnhenry1933

    johnhenry1933 Senior Member
    Messages: 256

    Oh. Thanks kimber. I have three uni's, and I thought they were very close to the conventionals.
     
  5. jfleming

    jfleming Member
    Messages: 57

    Can you give me some direction on how to do a pressure test and what the exceptable pressures are?

    You mention a screen, where is this located at?

    As far as fluid level goes, we have always just filled it to the top of the fill plug.

    You mention the gland nut, I notice the nut is tigheten all the way down, I would assume the packing/seal needs replace, from being tightened over time, allowing the nut to be all the way down

    I was going to change out the fluid. We have always run ATF fulid in the pump, does that pose any issues

    When changing the fuild out of the pump what would be the easest what to get the fluid out of the angle cyclinders
     
  6. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,977

    Top of the fill plug,,,,,no........
     
  7. SKYNYRD

    SKYNYRD Senior Member
    Messages: 420

  8. Colonel Monk

    Colonel Monk Member
    Messages: 60

    Great Service Manual, thanks for that.
     
  9. SKYNYRD

    SKYNYRD Senior Member
    Messages: 420

    you're welcome :waving:
     
  10. jfleming

    jfleming Member
    Messages: 57

    I don't see a fill level bolt or anything like that on this old plow housing....

    It appears to have a drain and a fill point...
     
  11. Colonel Monk

    Colonel Monk Member
    Messages: 60

    I think the manual said bottom of the threads. You don't want to fill all the way and then force the fill plug in, that's asking for a blown seal somewhere....
     
  12. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,977

    No I think it's a inch or two down. Ck the manual
     
  13. Colonel Monk

    Colonel Monk Member
    Messages: 60

    Says "fill reservoir to the filler hole threads and replace plug" page 2-4.

    This is for Isarmatic Mark IIIA.
     
  14. jfleming

    jfleming Member
    Messages: 57

    the manual from the link above says to the threads, however I am not sure if this is the correct manual for my unit as my filter is a thread in filter not a push on one..... But I assume t should be the same...
     
  15. Colonel Monk

    Colonel Monk Member
    Messages: 60

    You wrote filter, with a "T".... Not sure what you meant, but I was talking about filler (both "L"s) hole.

    I didn't look at the filter, if that's what you're using to identify it. My unit is slightly older than this manual (red T handle controller, not black joystick) but the pump unit is the same, same filler.

    I guess you need to figure that out.
     
  16. jfleming

    jfleming Member
    Messages: 57

    So my pressure gauge came in the mail today, I assembled it with the quick connector fitting. Went out to the truck, (33 degrees out) unplugged the bottom hose (goes to left side cylinder) started the truck up and angled the controller to the left, zero reading, angled the controller to the right and instantly hits 2000lbs. So where do I go from here with the information I have. The plow struggles to lift with little load on it. Please advise....

    thanks
     
  17. Colonel Monk

    Colonel Monk Member
    Messages: 60

    Sounds to me that your pump is fine, you seem to have a valving issue.

    You might take off your control cavity covers and have a helper actuate the control while you watch what's happening in the cavity. Might even take the cables off and actuate the valves by hand. You need a helper to even still - the control also starts the motor. They can do this by pulling the stick, and then while the motor is running you can run the valves with your finger.

    The upper valve, up is up and down is down, the lower valve I think down is left and up is right. The Cable should move approximately 5/16" from center when actuated.

    My cables are the red unadjustable type, but if you are running the adjustable type you might want to make sure that when the stick is centered, so are the valves!! So if you have them too tight, you may not get the valve fully open for lifting, and ditto for the angling.

    Basically, running without the cables can tell you if you have a control issue or actual valve problem. Ice buildup in the cavities of you have a leak can also mess this up.
     
  18. jfleming

    jfleming Member
    Messages: 57

    I know for sure there is no water or ice build up. I will have to get into checking the cable adjustments. If anyone else has any ideas let me know. Whats your thoughts on the lift valve needing adjustments? It appears to be stuck so I need to get after loosening it up....
     
  19. Colonel Monk

    Colonel Monk Member
    Messages: 60

    Hmmm, well I do know, that the little valve levers move really easily, so I suppose it's possible that these are "pilot-operated" valves? Pilot-operated means that they use a small amount of pressure from a tiny valve to operate a larger valve. Basically, a spool valve is like a hydraulic cylinder, it moves to and fro to control fluid path, so the "pilot" circuit would pressurize on end of the spool or the other....

    I don't know if this is how the valving works or not... What's I'd do, is test out what I mentioned about disconnecting the cables, and remove that from the equation so that you can test the function of the valves themselves. If you were able to register 2000psi on one outlet then I'm saying you've got no pump issues, but the valves aren't getting you where you need to go.

    Look closely at the link above, it might be time to take your unit to the bench and disassemble, might need to replace some seals or something to get it working again.