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old 8' 2" kills all power & engine

Discussion in 'Boss Plows Discussion' started by ALLDUN5, Jan 20, 2012.

  1. ALLDUN5

    ALLDUN5 Junior Member
    Messages: 12

    I have an 89 GMC K2500 dual batteries, 140A alt, and a 8' 2" V of the same era.
    I tried to raise the plow, and the entire truck lost power, killing the engine too, as soon as I hit the switch. I had the truck running 20 min prior to attempting the lift, and it started very easily. I hit the key to start and had zip, zero, nada. I disconnected the power cable to the J S Barnes pump motor and I got a little power, but dtill wouldn't even turn over. I connected a charger and she fired right up. It did this once last year but then went away, until now. Both batteries and the alt test good, at the place that custom built the alt.

    HELP! I think it's the pump motor shorting. Dead short from the batteries if it is, due to no protection in that line.

    Thanks,
    Rick
     
  2. Yooper75

    Yooper75 Senior Member
    Messages: 324

    Check your grounds to the plow and chassis, I used to have similar problems on my 91 GMC and the every high mile Suburban I have driven. What happens is the salt spray off the road rots the chassis ground on the chassis and high amp draws like snow plows or running both heaters in a Suburban at the same time cause them to fail.
     
  3. Plowfixguys

    Plowfixguys Senior Member
    Messages: 222

    Run ALL the grounds to the battery post or stud don't rely on the frame as a ground, just because every thing works on the vehicle doesn't mean the battery to frame ground can handle the draw.
     
  4. ALLDUN5

    ALLDUN5 Junior Member
    Messages: 12

    2ga. wire large enough? I have that here.
     
  5. Yooper75

    Yooper75 Senior Member
    Messages: 324

    I'm talking about the chassis ground from the engine block to the chassis because if that fails nothing is going to work. The plow should be grounded to the battery to begin with.
     
  6. DeggyD

    DeggyD Junior Member
    Messages: 29

    Similar problem here. I raise/turn the plow, my volt meter drops big time. Makes the truck lose power and die. '93 c2500. Has a 140 amp alternator. One thing leads to another, so heres the long story:

    Truck started up just fine. Plowed my lot. Was almost done, and the truck dies. No power to start it, so I get a jump from anothger truck. Didnt help. Still no power. Upon further examination, there was a loose wire conected to the starter. When trying to tighten it, the whole post broke out. Replaced the started. Got a charger on the battery. Truck started fine. Moved the plow a few times, and truck dies again. No power. Removed both batteries and alternator(140 amp). Auto parts store tested them all. Both batteries were 'going bad' as they put it, so I replaced both. They said the alternator was good.

    So the truck starts great with the new batteries. But when I run all the accessories (headlights, haloagen back up lights, and even the cab heater blower) the bolt meter drops way down. When I put a blinker on, the volt meter jumps up and down with the blinker. If I want to move the plow, I have to put it in nuetral, rev the engine, then adjust the plow, before I put the truck in reverse. Even when I am doing nothing but Idling with no lights on, the volt meter is at least 1 hash mark below 14. When I move the plow, the volt meter drops almost all the way to the left

    Seems like me and ALLDUN5 are in the same boat.

    I'm thinking I should re-check all connections, clean them, grind the rust off and re-run some grounds. Any other tips, suggestions, or possible fixes for us?
     
  7. ALLDUN5

    ALLDUN5 Junior Member
    Messages: 12

    Now that you mention it, I've seen the turn signal make the volt meter jump. I'll be working on it in the morning. I have the 1" wide, 1/4" grond strap from the passenger side frame horn that goes to the block, and a much smaller one from the block to the firewall. I will clean the connections on those, but think I'll run the 2ga, from the battery to the block, frame, and pump. I'll crimp/solder an 8ga into those and go to both fender wells and firewall. Try a little overkill.

    My son said he moved the truck yesterday, shut off and removed the key, but the truck kept running. I haven't had that happen yet. Maybe more gremlins hiding in her than I think.
     
  8. DeggyD

    DeggyD Junior Member
    Messages: 29

    So I worked on all the connections today. Ran a new ground to the frame and cleaned off the others. It doesn't really seem to change anything. I had my dad put the multi-tester on the battery while I fiddled around with stuff. At idle it reads 14.9. When I turn on headlights, strobe, halogen back-up lamps, and heater, it drops to 14.7. All this shows is that the alternator is still good I guess.

    When I would move the plow around, he said his meter would dip to 10, but it happens so fast its hard to read. I moved the plow around a little more and the truck died again. It did this twice in a row at idle. He said the meter would drop into the 8's when it was dying. When I would rev the engine to 1800-2000rmp and move the plow, the meter would dip into the 12's but the truck would not die. It did strain the engine though.

    So what is making the truck die at idle? I have read some other treads about this similar problem, and a couple people have said the the pump motor could be going bad and drawing too much current. Otherwise it seems there is still a ground issue somewhere.

    For now, I guess I will just raise my plow in Nuetral and hope the truck doesn't die too much.

    If anyone has other suggestion let me know.
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2012
  9. Yooper75

    Yooper75 Senior Member
    Messages: 324

    Almost sounds like you have a battery/batteries that's on it's way out and possibly a pump motor issue now that you've eliminated the grounds. Have you checked the wires to make sure they are not shorting out on the radiator support or bolt some where else? What version Boss plow do you have RT1, RT2, or RT3?
     
  10. DeggyD

    DeggyD Junior Member
    Messages: 29

    Both batteries are brand new. My plow is actually a Western, I just latched onto this thread after searching for my problem. I was hoping anyone who had answers for ALLDUN5 would have answers for me too. I feel I may have hijacked the thread though. Hopefully this helps ALLDUN5 as well.

    How can I tell 'if and where' there might be a short? Is there a way to test it with the multi-meter?

    The plow and truck are pretty old. Just got it a few months back to plow my business's 24-space lot. Chevy '93 2500HD w 8' wetern unimount. If you knocked all the rust off of it, It would end up being an S10 with a 7' plow. :)
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2012