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oil pan fun

Discussion in 'Ford Trucks' started by 84deisel, Aug 26, 2009.

  1. 84deisel

    84deisel Senior Member
    Messages: 696

    Just starting to get a look at the trucks for winter and this one is rotted in the pan
  2. 84deisel

    84deisel Senior Member
    Messages: 696

    heres the pictures guess what motor yet?

    new picts 809 008.jpg

    new picts 809 009.jpg
  3. 84deisel

    84deisel Senior Member
    Messages: 696

    yep another 7.3 oil pan .It came out pretty easy only took 6 hours by myself and I left the cab on.

    new picts 809 005.jpg

    new picts 809 007.jpg
  4. cretebaby

    cretebaby PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 4,162

    Want to do mine?
  5. 84deisel

    84deisel Senior Member
    Messages: 696

    no thanks I have 1 more it looks like.
  6. affekonig

    affekonig Senior Member
    Messages: 909

    Any word on rusty trucks for sale?
  7. got-h2o

    got-h2o 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,439

    I have to give you credit for doing it the "right" way, but you really didn't have to pull the motor.
  8. cretebaby

    cretebaby PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 4,162

    How would you do it?

    Just curious since I need it done.
  9. got-h2o

    got-h2o 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,439

    Cut out the subframe and re-weld it back in. The thought of that may make some cringe, but it's actually quite common. The Ford sub frames are actually quite thin anyhow. Any decent welder/fabber can handle the job. I know for a fact some dealers do it on trucks, especially out of warranty, higher milage trucks. It's a good thing to look for when buying a used truck, and many overlook it. ;)
  10. got-h2o

    got-h2o 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,439

    This works especially well when there's a plow mount up front. The motor mounts and front axle/springs hold the frame together anyhow during the process, but a plow mount is even a little extra "shoring"! Its just best to do the complete job and not move the truck around during the process.
  11. 84deisel

    84deisel Senior Member
    Messages: 696

    I prefer to pull the motor as they always need more than just the oil pan and it makes it much easier to do as we dont have a hoist to work under.
  12. Midwest BuildIt Inc

    Midwest BuildIt Inc PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,280

    I have done a couple of 7.3 oil pans this way...

    unbolt motor mounts
    unbolt front cab mounts, leave the rear.
    lift motor with hoist, when it hits the body keep lifting till there is room to get the pan off
    (may not work on pickups, ive done this on dumps, make sure the cab doesn't hit the bed)
    depending on year of truck, there may be some misc. things to disconnect.
    (steering shaft, wiring , just let the brake lines stretch out, and so on)
    change oil pan
    put back together.

    I have done two this way, I am in no way telling anyone that this will work on your truck. lol. but it has worked both times for me,
  13. dellwas

    dellwas Senior Member
    Messages: 369

    Mine started leaking and I went the JB Weld route. Drained pan, time for an oil change anyway. Sanded down to bare metal, cleaned with brake cleaner. Let sit overnite then put the JB to it. Been running it for 2 months now, no issues, but if it goes I'll either cut the cross member and re-weld, or try lifting it enough to get the pan out.

    Here's a link to one that was cut:

    Last edited: Aug 28, 2009
  14. EaTmYtAiLpIpEs

    EaTmYtAiLpIpEs 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,607

    ya I was told just lift the engine. not take it out. but if thats whta you prefer thats cool.
  15. affekonig

    affekonig Senior Member
    Messages: 909

    Hey, I got your message late last ngiht and didn't get a chance to call you back, but I'd like to talk... Oh, and these look like a fun job. Good work.
  16. wkahler

    wkahler Senior Member
    Messages: 250

    Anyone had someone do this for them, AKA dealer or local guy?? Just wondering what this is going to cost on average. Mine is looking rough, but no leaks yet, crossing my fingers that it holds out for another year!!!
  17. dellwas

    dellwas Senior Member
    Messages: 369

    You wondering about the pulling of the engine, or cutting the frame and re-welding? Guys on the Ford truck forums say it takes at least 12 hours to pull the engine and put back in and I've seen quotes as high as $2000 to do the job on the forums. Couldn't tell ya what it costs to cut and weld, but most of the ones I've seen on the forums say it's about a 4 hour job, with a lot less hassle.

  18. Nascar24

    Nascar24 Senior Member
    Messages: 645


    I had a freind who brought his 99PSD to a local welding shop with a new oil pan in hand. The shop put the truck up on a lift drained the oil, and cut the bottom of the pan off, they took the new pan and cut the bottom off, then they TIG welded the new bottom onto the old pan, they primed and painted it, job took about 4 hours and cost him $350 for the welding shop labor. That was nearly three years ago and I still see the truck on a regular basis and no leaks.
  19. deicepro

    deicepro PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,124

    Yuck! this brings back memories. my 2002 450 needed a pan and i lifted the motor til the turbo hit the cab and that was not enough room and i did not want to go any farther, i can do smaller thing but this was too much for me. I called around and most didnt want to do it and a few wanted $2000, then I thought I got lucky and found a guy to replace with a new pan for $1400, that sounded great until I found a younger out of work heavy diesel mechanic that did the whole thing for $700 pan included! What a pain in the a**! I'm not looking forward to the next one!
  20. dellwas

    dellwas Senior Member
    Messages: 369

    Yup, few on the Ford forums went this route....