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OEM front wheel bearing- where to get one?

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by mkwl, Oct 29, 2009.

  1. mkwl

    mkwl 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,361

    Does anyone know a good place to get an OEM front wheel bearing for the truck in my sig? I think my passengers' side is on its way out- dealer wants $465 for it- I've found Timken bearings online- for around $175- are these as good as OEM?

    Any help is appreciated!

    Thanks,
    Matt
     
  2. plowinginma

    plowinginma Senior Member
    from MA
    Messages: 326

    Timken is a good bearing company.. I have used only Timken bearings in my race car..
    and sound like the price is right!!
     
  3. badabing1512

    badabing1512 Senior Member
    Messages: 370

    Timken is the original wheel bearing in the truck if im not correct, sounds ike a great deal.
     
  4. plowinginma

    plowinginma Senior Member
    from MA
    Messages: 326

    I thought that may be the case.. I wasn't positive either..
     
  5. mkwl

    mkwl 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,361

    Ok thanks for the info- just got off the phone with my mechanic- he mentioned the symptoms the truck has ("grinding feeling" around left turns) could also be due to a bad CV joint- thoughts?

    What's the cost of a new axle for the passengers' side? Symptoms of this?

    Could it also just be due to the Mud terrain tires I have?
     
  6. mcfly89

    mcfly89 Senior Member
    Messages: 306

    sounds like a wheel bearing to me.

    ps-Timken is the best money can buy
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2009
  7. mkwl

    mkwl 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,361

    Ok thanks for the info- just got off the phone with my mechanic- he mentioned the symptoms the truck has ("grinding feeling" around left turns) could also be due to a bad CV joint- thoughts?

    What's the cost of a new axle for the passengers' side? Symptoms of this?

    Could it also just be due to the Mud terrain tires I have?
     
  8. mkwl

    mkwl 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,361

    Can a CV go bad if the boot is still intact (no noticeable tears in the boot)?

    What are symptoms of a bad CV?
     
  9. ABES

    ABES PlowSite.com Addict
    from MN
    Messages: 1,322

    Yes the boot was fine on mine but in 4wd when turning it would click very bad I replaced it and its been fine since. Preety easy job to change them out.
     
  10. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    Mostly what you described. Should be able to jack the tire up and figure it out. If it's a guessing game, CV shafts are pretty cheap. And quicker to change than the wheel bearing.
     
  11. mcfly89

    mcfly89 Senior Member
    Messages: 306

    a wheel bearing would become more noticeable when you go around a corner and make a grinding or low groaning noise. going . a CV will usually ONLY make noise (usually, not always) when turning sharply, like moving around a parking lot or something and it makes a more pronounced clicking or clunking noise as you turn the wheels more sharply.

    For the record, ALWAYS buy wheel bearings with the best warranty you can get. I have had horrible luck lately with the lifetime wheel bearings from NAPA. I've had to redo cavaliers, dodge 1/2 ton trucks, chevy trucks, and a few others all containing Napa lifetime wheel bearings. At least I won't get stuck with the cost of the bearing.

    Next time around I'll check out autozone and see if theirs are Neapco bearings (very good) and also consider OEM.
     
  12. plowinginma

    plowinginma Senior Member
    from MA
    Messages: 326

    Well I speak for experience of course when I say you could just Ignore the problem (it was the middle of a snow storm when I heard the awful grinding noise from my wheel)..and turn up the radio .. of course your tire falls off and jams the rotor into the caliper bracket.. I then knew for sure it was a wheel bearing !!
     
  13. Midwest BuildIt Inc

    Midwest BuildIt Inc PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,280

    the bearings from napa suck. ive used them and replaced them a few times. go to autozone, they sell the timken bearings. depending on your bearing set up, it may come with new wheel studs too. on my dodge you have to press out all the wheel studs to change the rotor/bearing. and the timkens from autozone come with a new set.
     
  14. ahoron

    ahoron Senior Member
    from here
    Messages: 422

    Bought a timken from advanced less than a year later abs speed sensor malfunctioned. Bought ac delco from rockauto.com. driver side is from napa 3+ years old
     
  15. plowinginma

    plowinginma Senior Member
    from MA
    Messages: 326

    Thinking about this some more ... Didn't GM have a recall on just this issue? I am almost positive they did...
     
  16. mcfly89

    mcfly89 Senior Member
    Messages: 306

    Just called to confirm...Napa no longer carries Timken. i've never had a timken fail unreasonably. the lifetime bearings I got from napa were japanese if i remember right. SKS and some other brand...as much as I love napa, I wont buy any more of their u joints or wheel bearings.

    timken bearings and spicer or neapco joints are still the best I have used, but they are rebranded so many times its hard to tell what you're actually getting.
     
  17. Joesno

    Joesno Senior Member
    Messages: 152

    youve got a bad u joint. cheap and semi easy to replace
     
  18. mcfly89

    mcfly89 Senior Member
    Messages: 306

    what would a U-joint in his driveshaft have to do with a grinding noise while he turns left?
     
  19. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    Sharp turns WILL bring out the worst of u-joints, but only in 4wd. Clicking noise is likely a CV joint. Grinding is more likely to be wheel bearing. Usually wheel bearings will be more noisy when you load them up, like in a turn at speed.
     
  20. zerolatency

    zerolatency Member
    Messages: 81

    if its a wheelbearing its a constant hum or grinding. When you are going down the road when you pitch the wheel away from the bad bearing the hum gets louder because the weight of the truck shifts onto the bearing. A cv joint makes a clicking noise. yes they can go out if the boot is still intact but in my experience the wheel bearings tend to go out sooner and much more frequently than the cv joints, especially after a couple years of the plow adding a little extra crush weight to the bearing.

    The best way to test is jack it up, put it on stands, have someone put it in 4x4 and CAREFULLY let the wheels spin at idle. Use an auto stethoscope much like http://www.carparts.com/PERFORMANCE-TOOL-AUTOMOTIVE-STETHOSCOPE/GP_2017895_N__10618.car?zmam=73771597&zmas=17&zmac=100&zmap=10618-2017895 and touch the wheel bearing housing, if one side is louder than the other you know what it is. Just make sure it is the constant growl or its not the wheel bearing.