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occasionally truck cranks, fires then dies? B&B?

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by ontario026, Jan 5, 2010.

  1. ontario026

    ontario026 Senior Member
    Messages: 228

    Truck is a 2000 Silverado 2500 with the 6L.... So this is the second time that I have had my truck crank, then it fires up and then dies, feels like the fuel pump is dead... However the fix is simple, just need to disconnect the battery for a bit??? Has anyone ever experienced this??

    first time it happened was after killing the battery (left a borrowed car trailer connected to the truck overnight and the trailer cargo lights were on) so I got a boost in the morning, and boom, truck only cranked, fired then died... Seemed just like a yr ago when the fuel pump had died, so I crawled my fat ass under the truck to check fuel pump connections and pound on the bottom of the tank... no change, so I had the cabbie (he was the one giving me a paid boost) turn the key on and off as I hit the valve on the fuel rail test port, and it sprayed fuel each time, so I figured it was the fuel pump relay not getting latched only pulsed, so I disconnected the battery for 30 sec or so and she fired up like normal.... I chalked it up to the computer having a brain fart after the battery being so dead (plus me trying repetitively to boost it with a crappy defective pair of booster cables) before resorting to paying a cabbie to come and boost me....

    then today I stopped by the grocery store to grab dinner before heading home, went back to the truck, and boom, same thing crank, fire, and die.... same thing tho, I disconnected the battery for a few sec and away we go..... some background on today, I changed my alternator to an upgraded 250Amp replacement, swap went well, nothing shorted out or anything.. Added a 4Ga fused shunt from the alternator to the boosting point in addition to the factory small fusible link.... Then this afternoon I went to the tranny shop to have a road test with his scanner connected but neither his scanner or my cheapo scanner would connect to the computer, seemed like no power to the diagnostic port, so I disconnected the battery for a min, then checked a shat load of fuses (pretty much anything ECM related) and didn't find anything blown... so I left to head home, stopped by parts source to get a Haynes manual so I could troubleshoot the no power at dtc port, then to the grocery store and then it was doing the crank, fire, and die???

    has anyone experienced this before, and any explanation of the cause? is it going to leave me stranded someday??

    a note on the diagnostic port no power issue, thanks to the haynes manual, the diag port is actually powered by the cigar fuse, not any ecm related fuses!! who woulda thunk it?? LOL

    Thanks
    Matthew
     
  2. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Very well detailed Matt. Those detailed explanations come in handy when assisting with any diagnosis. But just two more....

    1) When the truck starts and then stalled did you notice if the security message in the instrument panel was flashing afterwards?
    2) How long does it run after you release the key from the crank position? Instantly? Or after a few seconds?


    And yes the 12V circuit to the diagnostic port uses the same fuse as the cig lighter. That one catches many guys off guard when the scan tool won't power up. And I learned that one long ago myself.

    Nearly made me crazy the very first time. First thing I checked for from then on out. :D
     
  3. ontario026

    ontario026 Senior Member
    Messages: 228

    &$%&#$(#$*($# thing just did it again right now, as I was trying to go check my accounts, disconnected the battery, but doing the same thing still... so I just left the batt disconnected and came inside for a few....

    B&B as far as I can remember, the security light was acting as normal.

    and it cranks, fires, rpm starts to climb,but dies when tach nears 800rpm or so.... (you turn the key, it kind of sounds like it is starting normal, release the key, and it dies within a second)
     
  4. ontario026

    ontario026 Senior Member
    Messages: 228

    if I sit in the cab and use the keyless entry to lock the doors, the security light will illuminate, then it goes away when I hit the unlock button. But when I crank, it fires and dies, the security light does not come on... So far it has me stranded, even after an extended period with the batt disconnected, it still will not restart.... :(

    Matthew
     
  5. ontario026

    ontario026 Senior Member
    Messages: 228

    ok another update, went back out, reconnected the battery, same thing, crank fire, die... so then I knew I had fixed the power to the diagnostic port, so I figured I would read the codes (no engine light, and the first time it had happened, I found no codes, but now I have a better scanner) and it is showing a theft deterrant password incorrect code??? I would assume this is the computer trying to say I am trying to jack my own truck??? and killing the ignition? how does one fix this now?

    matthew
     
  6. ontario026

    ontario026 Senior Member
    Messages: 228

    Guess what, its me again... Got the truck started again, it appears to be a prob with the remote start security bypass... I'm at my buddys stereo/ remote start shop and he's looking at it right now
     
  7. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Whether the truck was equipped with a remote start or not was going to be the next question after the answers from the first two pertaining to the security light. And that is exactly what the problem is I can assure you. Those things cause more no start/stall conditions than I care to discuss and is the first thing I go after when I find a security breech code.

    So you have a problem with the bypass key for the RS. Either its faulty or there's a poor connection. The Passlock only needs to see an excessive resistance of about 100 OHM to see a problem and set a security code.
     
  8. ontario026

    ontario026 Senior Member
    Messages: 228

    B&B you are the man... One helpful/knowledgable fellow!! My buddy's stereo/install shop reprogrammed the bypass module, as it must have lost it's programming.... According to my buddy once the code is set in the computer for the invalid paslock password, it takes a period of time with the key in the on position for the code to clear before it will allow the vehicle to start.... My "disconnecting the battery" fix was the wrong fix totally, but I must have lucked out with the right combination of key in the "on" position when I reconnected the battery, eventually letting the code clear, then it would restart.....

    Well I ended up with a pretty crappy day, first the truck not starting, then it finally started, and I went and plowed out an old couple that live at the bottom of a nice hill with a jacknife at the bottom so no run at the hill, I had promised to have them out by 8am, and luckily the truck started just as I was getting ready to take the wife's car to go and shovel them out!!! So I got them out ontime, then headed for a coffee, hit the brakes at a stop light and my plow swung forward on one side, looked pretty funny, so I pulled into a parking lot to inspect, and sure enough I managed to lose a "step pin" from my extremeV. the step pin is the one that holds the push bar to the headgear... needless to say I went to my shop and dropped off the plow, then headed to the local western dealer (who has fisher pamphlets but I don't know of anyone who has bought fisher there) to see if they had the right step pin, and nope... so I had to drive 1 1/2 hrs each way to Twin equipment in ottawa for a 5$ pin... so I bought a repair kit with some assorted pins, spare hose, 1L oil, etc then I bought a spare centre hinge pin for the v as well..... At least it wasn't in the middle of a snow storm I guess....

    matthew
     
  9. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Your buddy is correct. After it receives an incorrect or no "key" you must then turn the ignition off and on to the run position, and then wait a minimum of 20 minutes.Then turning the ignition off and restarting it should start and continue to run. That is if it receives the correct key the second time. :D Disconnecting the battery simply starts the bypass key back to "square one" so to speak. Doesn't always work either but good it did in your case.

    Sounds like a productive day. Reminds me a little of a fellow member here that has a problem with dogs, slick roadways and large trees.

    Names are withheld to protect the guilty, but the guilty party knows who he is. :D
     
  10. WNYSeasonalSvs.

    WNYSeasonalSvs. Junior Member
    from WNY
    Messages: 29

    I have a strange issue with my "security" light on my 01 w/ remote start.
    Has only happened about 5 times in the past year, driving around & my security light will go on for no apparent reason. Truck continues to run/drive fine. If I shut truck off & restart the problem goes away. No other problem except the light, any ideas?
     
  11. ontario026

    ontario026 Senior Member
    Messages: 228

    my security light did come on earler while driving, but went off when I turned the truck off, and the truck was still starting with both the key and the remote start... I am thinking that there is a reason the remote start bypass lost it''s programming, I think the module may be going bad... If it causes me trouble again my buddy will be replacing it....
     
  12. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    It's due to the remote starter interface as I mentioned. It's such a common issue that GM has long specifically stated "check the vehicle for any and all aftermarket remote starter components before furthering diagnosis" for a no start/stall condition.

    And in my experiences I've found it solves 75% of the issues right off the bat.