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Noise coming from front end of an 02' f-250

Discussion in 'Ford Trucks' started by infineon954, Dec 7, 2005.

  1. infineon954

    infineon954 Senior Member
    Messages: 235

    OK, here's the problem. Today I was on the highway in 2WD. and I started to hear a noise, much like a rubbing noise, than a vibrating. Then
    I would hit minor bumps in the road and the noise would stop. As I hit another bump the noise becomes noticeable again. So thinking it may be my new WARN hubs, I put it in 4WD on a side street and no noise. I took it out of 4WD and the noise becomes noticeable. Then I tried unlocking the hubs and engaging the transfer case with the switch and, no noise.
    Where do I begin? I had the front driveshaft rebuilt not to long ago. Could it be in the differential case? Any help would be appreciated.
     
  2. Yaz

    Yaz PlowSite.com Addict
    from NH
    Messages: 1,061

    I would crawl under there and start pulling and twisting stuff. How about with the wheels turned all the way? any crunching sound in 2WD or 4WD?
    O yeh sounds obvious but did you check the lug nuts.
     
  3. infineon954

    infineon954 Senior Member
    Messages: 235

    I wish the problem was something as stupid as the lug nuts being loose. No, not so much turning the wheels lock to lock. However, getting on an off-ramp with a hard right turn it seem to get worse as more force is applied to the left front. I'm not sure if it would be a wheel bearing because being in 4WD would make it worse.
     
  4. Yaz

    Yaz PlowSite.com Addict
    from NH
    Messages: 1,061

    I wish I new more about the Ford front ends.

    How about checking for backlash when it's jacked off the ground. The right and left being different may tell if somthing inside is worn.
     
  5. infineon954

    infineon954 Senior Member
    Messages: 235

    It's goin in the shop this morning. I'll let you guys know. Thanx for the help.
     
  6. ToolMaker

    ToolMaker Member
    Messages: 84

    Your new hubs might not be locking or unlocking all the way , I would look there first . Why did you switch to the warn hubs ?
    I ask because one of my auto hubs isn't working any more so I have to manually lock mine in now.
     
  7. Yaz

    Yaz PlowSite.com Addict
    from NH
    Messages: 1,061

    What was it???:confused:
     
  8. infineon954

    infineon954 Senior Member
    Messages: 235

    K, guys here was the problem. You may laugh, but I sure was glad to hear what my mechanic had to say. It was a damn piece of metal lodged in between the front rotor and caliper. How stupid is that?
     
  9. infineon954

    infineon954 Senior Member
    Messages: 235

    I switched because the AUTO system is not surefire. I just got done putting an entire hub and bearing assembly on due to two things. One was the failure of a vaccum seal. The other was the failure of the front right U-joint (thanx to Ford making a non-greasable part). In my opinion, The Ford shift on-the-fly is more for a homeowner. Not only that they want $275 per side for a new hub. I strongly recommend you get your truck in the shop and spend $175 and replace the hubs with WARN. Then compare the factory hub to WARN's. You will notice that the WARN is a well built hub. Of course this will bypass the auto system all together and you will have to get out and lock the hubs in everytime, however, it is fail safe. The only thing the switch in the cab will do for you is engage the transfer case.
     
  10. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    Cool you got off cheap. Ford didn't get to rape you for parts this time!
    Warn's the way to go,they are inexpensive,easy to install,easy to clean and service. You are sure they are locked and hardly ever fail unlike auto hubs which can wear out quickly. And leave you without 4X4 at the worst time.
     
  11. infineon954

    infineon954 Senior Member
    Messages: 235

    You got that right Mickrig. The next one I buy, I am going to buy an XLT with the XL floor shifter. Then the WARN hubs go on.
     
  12. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    With a snow plow truck you always want lever shift and manual hubs.
    But the manufacturers always think we want it easy,hit buttons it's done!
    Till it breaks most people have no clue to how much this convenience costs.
    They are built for the 40 hours it's really in 4X4 in it's life time with the average owner,not us the snow plower's.
     
  13. infineon954

    infineon954 Senior Member
    Messages: 235

    You got that right. Lastnight when I went out plowing, I discovered my heater vents are not switching over from defrost to floor heat. Any idea there?
     
  14. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    I am dealing with the same thing. I discovered it yesterday when my feet started getting cold. Check your vacuum lines one may of come off. My Ford has two vacuum actuators to control the heater functions and the temp of the air. It used to have A/C,now all I have is defrost mode.
     
  15. k brown

    k brown Junior Member
    from ontario
    Messages: 13

    yeah,if you lose vacuum to your blend control it will default to defrost.
    check in the engine bay on the firewall,pas side.
     
  16. infineon954

    infineon954 Senior Member
    Messages: 235

    yeah....I bypassed that part altogether only because I put manual hubs on. Works fine now. Thanx for the help though.
     
  17. Yaz

    Yaz PlowSite.com Addict
    from NH
    Messages: 1,061

    I had 5 years of plowing with my 1500 fully automatic with no trouble at all.
     
  18. infineon954

    infineon954 Senior Member
    Messages: 235

    Yup...I have to say I think Chevy designs a better Auto system
     
  19. Minnesotaslim

    Minnesotaslim Junior Member
    Messages: 7

    My recently acquired '99 F-250 had a broken blender motor(?) on it when I got it and it was *defrost only* until it was replaced.

    I have a set of used Warn manual hubs that I am going to install on my truck, should I grease them liberally inside first? Conservatively? At all? TIA.
     
  20. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    Clean them real well and dry them. Use the disk brake type grease. Just cover the surfaces with a light coat of grease. There are install kits available with new hold down screws and the O- ring to seal the hub. If you can't find the new O ring kit at least put a good layer of grease around the inside rim before you install them. This should keep out water. Do not take the screw out of the selector dial on the hub,you will be screwed,your reference to locked/unlocked will be lost.