1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

Newly installed unimount not working..... please help

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by bizzo15, Feb 27, 2011.

  1. bizzo15

    bizzo15 Senior Member
    Messages: 107

    Hey guys,

    I finally got around to finishing the install of my unimount today and I hooked her up and nothing worked :cry: I did some very basic troubleshooting as I didn't have the mechanic's guide handy and to be honest don't know a whole lot about plows. I have power to the controller and when I hit the joystick controller to raise or turn left and right and I hear the plow "click". I investigated further and the clicking seems to be coming from the coil/cartridge area. I took the cover off and the connectors and wiring seems correct
    Next I busted out the jumper cables and tried jumping the motor directly but it sparked like crazy when I went to hook the positive to the terminal on the motor. I also checked and made sure the reservoir was full of fluid. I then busted out the test light and I have power going to the motor relay secondary terminal that is hooked directly to the battery. I don't have power on the secondary terminal that the power plug goes to? Shouldn't I have power there?

    I hooked up two different motor relay's and they both did the same thing. Any idea's on where I should go from here? My gut tells me it may be the motor but I honestly don't know anything about plows so I don't want to just throw money at the problem. Also why would it spark like crazy when I tried to directly jump the plow motor?

    Thanks for any help you guys are always great at answering my questions.
     
  2. Western1

    Western1 Senior Member
    from MI.
    Messages: 676

    It just sparked? If the motor isn't turning when you jump it then the motor is bad. You won't have power on the other terminal of the solenoid unless your hitting the button on the controller at the same time.
     
  3. bizzo15

    bizzo15 Senior Member
    Messages: 107

    Well the minute I went to touch the jumper to the positive terminal it sparked like crazy so I never was able to make a good connection. I tried the test light while somebody else pressed the controller and I still got nothing out of the one secondary terminal that connects to the plow. I just wish I could confirm without a doubt it's the motor before I drop the coin on a new one.
     
  4. Western1

    Western1 Senior Member
    from MI.
    Messages: 676

    You can pull the motor off and hook jumper cables from battery to the motor,ground on the flange,and test it.
     
  5. twinman326

    twinman326 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,683

    There is a black/orange and a brown/red wire coming out of the harness..Both wires goes to the solenoid (small terminal). The black/orange also goes to the plow. It should be grounded to the plow motor. This wire is the ground wire for the plow lights, and "S" valves. Check that wire to make sure it is install correctly.. The brown/red wire goes from the solenoid back to the controller.. Also check the wires on the coils (s valves) to make sure you have the correct colors to the correct valves (inside the cover shows what color wires go to what S valve)..

    On the motor, you should have the black/red stripe cable hook to the one side of the solenoid (large lug) and the black cable hook to the ground..

    What year, make model is the truck???
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2011
  6. Eggie329

    Eggie329 Senior Member
    Messages: 123

    If someone was holding the joystick and you still only had power on one side of the solenoid, then that is your first problem. Solenoids are easy to find at plow parts suppliers and O'Reily stocks them. As for the motor if you jump it an it does nothing it's probably bad.
     
  7. bizzo15

    bizzo15 Senior Member
    Messages: 107

    -The truck is a 1991 Chevy K1500. When you say that black/orange also goes the plow motor and is the ground wire for the plow lights then I'm pretty sure it's hooked up correctly as when I turn my headlights on the plow lights work fine. Also I do have the black/red cable hooked to the large lug on the solenoid and the all black cable grounded to the battery. Also when I took the cover off the coils all the wires were hooked up correctly.

    I'm pretty sure the solenoid isn't bad as I bought it brand new because the one that came with the plow was pretty rusty. I did try both the new and the used one and had the same results.
     
  8. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    If you got big sparks when you touched the booster + to the motor + then perhaps you have the + & - hooked up backwards? If the negative motor cable is on the + connector of the relay then you have a direct short to ground when you do the boost thing. Verify your hookup before you spend money on any new parts.
     
  9. bizzo15

    bizzo15 Senior Member
    Messages: 107

    I thought that as well but I double checked my connections and I have the black cable with red striped hooked up to the solenoid and the all black cable grounded to the battery itself.
     
  10. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    Ok then start by disconnecting the motor and then hook up your booster without any other wires to confuse things. If the motor still sparks big time then the motor is probably shorted out inside. You can also use a test light to test that solenoid / relay. The one big nut should be hot all the time while the other side should only be hot when you hit the controller. If you hear the controller click but the test light does not light up on th second terminal then the solenoid is burnt out. Probably because the motor is shorted and drawing too much current. Replace the motor and the solenoid.
     
  11. bizzo15

    bizzo15 Senior Member
    Messages: 107

    I didn't isolate the motor I'll try that tomorrow. As far as the solenoid goes I did use a test light on it. The hot side like you said was always lit. The two little terminals would light up when I would hit the controller but the other larger terminal wouldn't light up no matter what. Do you think that means that the solenoid is burnt up. It's brand new but like you were saying if the motor is shorted then it could've burned it up. I think you are right and I'm going to have to replace the motor and the solenoid.
     
  12. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    If it's clicking when you hit the control but not light on the second big nut then yes it's toast, buy a new one.
     
  13. bizzo15

    bizzo15 Senior Member
    Messages: 107

    I hear the plow "click" but the actual solenoid under the truck doesn't make a sound and like I said the test light comes on with every terminal except the one that the power plug connects to.
     
  14. twinman326

    twinman326 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,683

    You keep on insisting nothing wrong with the solenoid..It's call reverse polarity. You must have the cables cross. Being said, most likely you fried the solenoid. Now that being said, go to you local plow supplier, or a Napa store and purchase a motor relay (solenoid) for your plow......
     
  15. bizzo15

    bizzo15 Senior Member
    Messages: 107

    I promise you I don't have the cables hooked up wrong. I brought the install manual and checked the wiring like 5 times, It's not rocket science but I think you're definitely right that solenoid is fried and I think mishnick hit the nail on the head when he said the motor is shorted out which caused the solenoid to fry. Thanks for all the help guys I'm gonna go try your suggestions today and I'll let you know how I make out.
     
  16. bizzo15

    bizzo15 Senior Member
    Messages: 107

    ***UPDATE***

    So I bought a new motor and solenoid today and drove back out to where the plow is. I replaced the plow motor and the solenoid and still got nothing. I busted out the test light and probe the solenoid. Once again I got the light to light up when I probed the large terminal hooked directly to the battery and the two smaller terminals when I activated the controller but I still couldn't get the other large terminal to light up when I activated the controller.

    Also I unplugged the plow and decided to directly jump the new motor to make sure it worked. When I did that the motor did indeed run and the plow angled right. Isn't the plow supposed to raise when you jump the motor?

    Does it matter how you hook the solenoid up as long as you a wire directly from the battery to a large terminal and the wire going to the plug to the other terminal? Same for the two small wires?

    I just can't figure out why I can't get power to the power plug itself.

    Any and all help is appreciated, I'm close to giving up and taking it to a plow mechanic since I'm running out of ideas.

    Thanks again
     
  17. twinman326

    twinman326 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,683

    Logically, let look at this in a different way ( just follow). Battery is the power, solenoid is the relay source, the plow motor is a (let say) a light bulb, and the controller is a light switch. From the switch you have two wires, one a ground, and the other is the secondary wire need to activate the source. To make the light turn on , you have power to the switch( battery), you then flip the switch (controller), which activate (brown/red wire), source (solenoid), and turn on the light (motor)..

    Now if you look at the logic, the lead from the battery is hook up to the large post (one side of the solenoid).The blk/orn is the ground and is hook up to the small terminal (one side of the solenoid but does not have to be hook to the battery). The brn/red wire is hook small terminal (other side of the solenoid), and the blk/red wire to the plow motor, and to the large terminal (other side of the solenoid).

    Battery is the power, blk/orn is the ground. When you flip the switch (controller), the brn/red wire activate the other side of the solenoid which complete the circuit which send power to the motor, and the motor spins.

    So
    A) check your controller
    B) check your controller connector (under the dash)
    C) check the harness that goes through the wall to make sure the casing, or wire(s) are not grounding out
    D) check you controller fuse
    E) check the brn/red wire to make sure it is not broken, or grounding against any metal
    F) last (and your going to insist you did), clean your grill connector..Use battery cleaner. spray and let it sit for a couple of minutes..Clean the connector out and do it again.. Use a pair of pliers and gently squeeze the female connector. This will close the female prongs a little so when you re-connect the connectors, it will have a tight fit. Put dielectric grease on both connectors

    Let us know how you made out..
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2011
  18. bizzo15

    bizzo15 Senior Member
    Messages: 107

    Ok makes sense, I will check those things out next time I get a chance to get out to the plow again which will probably be a couple of days. If what I understand what you posted the brn/red wire is what sends power through the relay and to the plow motor? Since i'm not getting power to the plow motor should I investigate that first or just stick to the order you posted?
     
  19. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    "and the two smaller terminals when I activated the controller"

    this statement tweeks my curiosity... Only one of the two small terminals should light up when you hit the controller? I suspect that this model has a common ground so both small terminals should be dead until you hit the controller at which time only one, the positive from the controller, should light up. If the other lights up too then power is NOT taking the easier path to ground meaning that the ground from the solenoid is open, broken, corroded or something.

    Disconnect both small cables, put the test light on one at a time, then find the ONE that lights up when you hit the controller, this is the positive. The one that does NOT light up is the common ground. Reconnect the two wires and then use a jumper wire to ensure that the wire that didn't light up is grounded to the battery negative. Now your test light should only come on touching the positive terminal and the relay should click. Hopefully, now that you are sure you have a good motor, the pump motor will also spin up as per normal. Now tha I have read Twinmans's input I see he shows the colours, that should make it easy. Still, both small leads should NOT light up. Jump from the small terminal with the Blk / org wire direct to the battery ground and give it a shot. If that fixes things then you can either trace down that wire and fix the problem or just make a permanent jumper from solenoid ground to the battery negative post. It won't hurt anything or kill your battery. That would be the quick fix.
     
  20. bizzo15

    bizzo15 Senior Member
    Messages: 107

    Ok I think you hit the nail on the head because on both solenoids I tried the test light lit up when i probed either of the smaller terminals. Also at one point I tried to jumper the two large terminals and it sparked like crazy. I will rig up a ground directly from the blk/orn wire to the battery ground and see if that puts me in business. If not then I'm going to run through the checklist twinman gave me. The control harness is used and was from another vehicle so there's a good chance that blk/orn wire could be shorted out somewhere.