1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

New Ultra mount vs. old

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by PPMan, Mar 16, 2012.

  1. PPMan

    PPMan Member
    from Va.
    Messages: 48

    Got a new 7 1/2 pro plow this year for a new truck and it seems they changed the frame geometry a little. I have 2 others mounted too, all on newer chevys. This new one barely lifts the blade off the ground! I've tried mounting the chains higher up but didn't help at all.
    Chevys are already too low as it is and this doesn't help at all. Didn't get to try it out this winter:cry: only 1 salt event the whole season :cry: but I can tell this thing is not going to stack at all , not even sure it will push over a curb as low as it is.
    Anybody else notice this? Any way to get it higher without screwing up the plow?
     
  2. Lone136

    Lone136 Senior Member
    Messages: 108

    There is 4 settings on the plow side. You have to remove the head gear and remove the setup pin to make the plow higher. It seems like most Chevys of today are set on number 2, but in some cases it needs to be on number 3. Your hand book should show you all the details. Hope this help.
     
  3. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    As said above, check your configuration. Your A-frame should be parallel to the ground when the plow is down if the config is right. Also make sure the installer didn't install stacking stops. Not sure if your model comes with or not but sometimes they are put on when the vehicle doesn't need them. Finally, a stupid question.... when you hooked your chains up did you put the controller in float and push the lift frame all the way down? You sound like a seasoned operator but I have to ask.....

    The new swivel bar and pins have no effect on the gemetry of the plow. In fact you can interchange the new parts with an old style ultramount and you won't even notice a differance. The new style is supposed to be stronger and it makes it much easier to change between those four config options when you do need to change it.
     
  4. PPMan

    PPMan Member
    from Va.
    Messages: 48

    Thanks for the info, I'll check those things out. Didn't know anything could be changed at the vehicle mount.
    Yes I did put it in float and tried moving the chains but didn't seem like the cylinder lifts as high? Actually I even tried jacking the plow up after the cylinder was collapsed all the way then changing the chains but didn't help.
     
  5. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    Have you considered cranking up the torsion bars on the front suspention? Chevy 4X4s have a bolt under the cab you can tighten to adjust the front end height. You could also consider adding a bit of weight behind the rear wheels. The front axel will act like a fulcrum on a leaver, as the rear end goes down the front end goes up.

    Using the jack to tighten the chain a few extra links is not a good idea because this will stop the plow from followoing the contours of the road as you plow like when the front wheels go over a speed bump. You don't want the cutting edge to lift and carve two inches above the asphault right? But if this didn't make any differance then it sounds like you are hitting the stacking stops.
     
  6. PPMan

    PPMan Member
    from Va.
    Messages: 48

    I did crank up the torsion bars and usually carry around 2,500lbs of salt. It's something in the setup of the plow or just the way they're built now. I'm going to try and look at it tomorrow, think I'll have time. Yeah lifting with the jack was just an experiment.