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New to truck wiring

Discussion in 'Strobe Lighting' started by blakerugg, Mar 20, 2009.

  1. blakerugg

    blakerugg Senior Member
    Messages: 126

    Tonight i took apart the trim inside my truck to see what it took to wire strobes. The cab part seems pretty easy, and i am wondering what it takes to put a directional bar in the cab. How does the bar (light(s) in the future) get the power? I am assuming you send the power to the switch? Then distribute it to the lights via the switch?

    Also, what do you need for grille LEDs? Obviously a power supply, but how do you tie them together?

    I know i am asking a lot, but i am sure there's some pro electricians out there....and don't worry i havent taken anything apart, broken anything, or ordered anything yet. I'm just about to turn 16 and think it'd be nice to know how to wire my own truck.

    Thanks!
     
  2. Pirsch

    Pirsch Senior Member
    Messages: 596

    Most LED's like for the grill have 2 wires. They work as stand alones. When you mount them you just do a quick good ground with the black wire. Run the Red wire to the cab to your switch. you can put your grill LED's on the same switch 15 amp or so. Run your power wire from the switch to either the battery or to your fuse box. If you run it to the battery put an Inline fuse or a fuseable link in and attach it. When you flip the switch you should get the lights doing their own thing unless they have mode selectors and then all you have to do is follow the instructions that come with them for your pattern that you want.

    As for the directional lighting pretty much the same but you'll have to run them through your pattern box then to the pwr source.
    You will have a couple more wires but you just run them to the matching area of the switchbox.

    Good luck and remember to put your main ground last. You don't want to short anything out!
     
  3. SafetyLighting

    SafetyLighting Senior Member
    Messages: 601

    If you really care about your truck, let a professional do it. One, it will be done right. Two, if something goes wrong, they are responsible for the job and any resulting damage. I have been in business for over five years, and I cannot count how many times I have had to repair improper wiring jobs that have come close to igniting.

    No offense to Pirsch, but when you wire up LED's that have 22 or 20 gauge wire(normal sizing on the small LED Modules) and install a 15 amp fuse at the switch, you will burn the wire before the fuse blows.
     
  4. Pirsch

    Pirsch Senior Member
    Messages: 596

    No offense taken. I'm Old School...I love the sealed beams and the Halogens. Atleast I said 15 amp fuse! Minimum that you'd want to use. Or a fuseable link. I used to have alot of good things with the links. I used to put quick connectors on each side of it so if it would blow you could change it out real fast. Pretty much all the lighting still goes in the same way. Mainly... Red before Black... run the main ground last!

    Like I said no offense taken.
     
  5. SafetyLighting

    SafetyLighting Senior Member
    Messages: 601

    Although I forgot to mention, I was excited that you mentioned the fuse at all. I'm laughing as I type this because i'm thinking of some of the installs I fixed that had no fusing at all. :)

    Down right scary!
     
  6. blakerugg

    blakerugg Senior Member
    Messages: 126

    i see your point, i just figured i'd try and get the facts anyway
     
  7. Pirsch

    Pirsch Senior Member
    Messages: 596


    Don't you hate when that happens? Think you need to change your name! LOL :drinkup: