1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

New SnowDogg TGS07 Issues

Discussion in 'SnowDogg Snow Plows' started by JCark, Nov 6, 2011.

  1. JCark

    JCark Member
    Messages: 87

    After the installation, and using bagged salt, I've noticed that if I keep the speed at 9 it works just fine, but, if I bring it down to 5 it will work for a min or 2 and then stop and ill get the F on the display. Now, if I shut it off and turn it back on it will start working and then eventually do the same thing and quit until i power it off and then back on again.

    I've checked everything; the voltage, the wiring, the grease on the bearing, the connections, the fuses. At this point I'm at a loss. I'm extremely disappointed and I hope buyers will take care of me if the distributor doesn't.

    I guess I'm even more upset because I bought it from R.H. Scales, a local place in Albany NY and paid $500 more than I had to if I were to buy it online. I did that so I would have it in time for a storm we were supposed to get but didn't.

    I'm really hoping that some one might have any ideas as to why it might do that besides what I've already checked. I dont want to bother the distributor or SaltDogg If I dont have to. Im hoping its just a controller issue and not and issue with the Motor, Thanks for your help everyone!
     
  2. ChiTahoe

    ChiTahoe Senior Member
    Messages: 143

    Why not just take it back to the installer?

    Buyers is a great company with plenty of support. Scott will chime in soon enough I'm sure.
     
  3. smoorman

    smoorman Sponsor
    Messages: 446


    Just discussed this with our in-house spreader expert. That can happen if the auger is overloaded - there is a gate on the chute to the spinner that should be fully open (to start) - if that was closed too much it would jam the auger.

    This would mean that nothing is defective, just a matter of adjustment. Certainly the best outcome.

    If everything is wide open and that is still occurring (and you don't want to take it in for service) - it would be useful to know what the current draw is.
     
  4. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    Why not, that's the beauty of local dealers. Take advantage of the service that you paid for. I'm sure they will be glad to help you with whatever the issue is.
     
  5. JCark

    JCark Member
    Messages: 87

    When I first put the salter on the truck I fully opened the chute and I was only using bagged rock salt that was dry and had no clumps. I talked to the dealer and they are sending me a new control box weds. If that does not resolve the issue I will bring it back for service. I'm not sure what the current draw is though, my multimeter will only let me measure amperage up to 10 amps and I'm sure it draws more than that so I don't want to fry it. Ill keep everyone posted.
     
  6. JCark

    JCark Member
    Messages: 87

    I thought I would mention this as well, It also does it when its completely empty, and I get 14 volts to the controller while the truck is running.
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2011
  7. JCark

    JCark Member
    Messages: 87

    Well, I got a call from RH Scales and they have a new controller for me to try, Ill know tomorrow if its a controller issue (which I'm hoping it is) or an issue elsewhere.
     
  8. ChiTahoe

    ChiTahoe Senior Member
    Messages: 143

    Hope that solves it, keep us posted on this though!
     
  9. JCark

    JCark Member
    Messages: 87

    I'm headed over to the distributor now to try it out, ill keep you posted:nod:
     
  10. JCark

    JCark Member
    Messages: 87

    Well I thought I would give everyone an update on this issue. I swapped the entire system out with a new one. I get the same thing. This issue has stumped the tech support dept and engineering dept at saltdogg. There is also a new issue now. Every once and a while ill turn the system on and the buttons light up dimly and the display shows a dash at the bottom. This happens intermittently. Saltdogg told me that since its an entirely new system that the issue was my truck. I have tested the alternator and get 13.2 to 13.4 volts with EVERYTHING on including the salter and amber light. One battery tested 775 cold cranking amps, the other tested 225 cold cranking amps. These tests were done at my mechanics shop, duanesburg auto. Im waiting on a call back from scott who is the head engineer? ... or so Im told. At this point if the issue does not get resolved I'm going to get my money back and just get a fisher polycaster. Please if anyone has any other ideas on what the problem might be, chime in. I do like this spreader and would like to keep it. Thanks.
     
  11. JCark

    JCark Member
    Messages: 87

    I should also note that there is no buyers service center anywhere near me, and Im told that they will only pay a shop up to 50 dollars per hour to look at it. Arrowhead (who has always been great with the equipment i get there) charges 85 an hour for labor and I would have to cover the additional cost, plus I dont know if they would even look at a buyers product.
     
  12. Plowfixguys

    Plowfixguys Senior Member
    Messages: 222

    I strongly believe you have a current issue not a voltage issue. Your going to have to stop thinking voltage and think amps. Do you have an amp meter? Start checking the draw on the motor. I think you should be around 40 amps max. (call buyers and ask them) I would also do loaded voltage drop testing on every wire. When you changed out the system did you reuse any part of the old system? Even one connection that,s was bad on the old system and reused would move the problem to the new unit. How is the wiring run? Is the ground connected to the battery or to the frame? If its on the frame you could have a lot of resistance and that would cause the problem your having. Go directly to the battery with both (+) & (-).
    Your description tells me something is changing when as the unit is on and working.
    You have one low battery. What kind of truck do you have? GM uses a secondary battery on some trucks that is routed through a solenoid and some times wont get charged properly. So if its on that battery it would be running low on current.

    I wish you were near me, I love to work on problems like this!

    Good luck!
     
  13. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    Bad batteries suck power from good batteries quickly dragging them down, change BOTH batteries in the truck. The bad battery is "stealing" power.
     
  14. smoorman

    smoorman Sponsor
    Messages: 446

    Plowfix has a good point, and I don't know if Phil covered it with you. It is ABSOLUTELY critical that the power and ground wire go directly to the battery. No chassis grounds, no power lugs. The power and ground at these other locations is DIRTY, and weak ground or noisy power can cause strange things.

    As we last discussed, you can rule out a lot by running it straight off an independent battery (just for troubleshooting).

    I also wonder if the unloaded motor is drawing so little current at low speed that the controller thinks it's disconnected (the F). If that was the case it wouldn't happen when it had a load of salt in it. Most people don't spend a lot of time running them empty.

    Keep us up to date.
     
  15. finallygot1

    finallygot1 Member
    Messages: 36

    Just discussed this with our in-house spreader expert. That can happen if the auger is overloaded - there is a gate on the chute to the spinner that should be fully open (to start) - if that was closed too much it would jam the auger.


    Does the new TGS07 have a gate? Mine only has a "plate" to put on the chute to avoid losing salt in transportation. A gate would be great............
     
  16. JCark

    JCark Member
    Messages: 87

    Ok, I appriciate all the help from everyone including saltdogg. Here is a list of facts:

    -power and ground go directly to the main battery
    -the alternator is working properly and is within spec over 13 volts with EVERYTHING on
    -the batteries are within spec (each tested individually) one at 775 CCA the other at 725 CCA
    -the entire system was swapped out for a new one, only the truck remained the same
    -the issue does not occur as much with the new one, but it does still occur
    -I do not have a clamp meter so I cannot check for amperage draw, I will try to buy one today

    Here are my questions...

    What am I checking now with the amperage meter?

    -The amperage from the main battery to the control box
    -The amperage from the control box to the electric motor
    -what else?

    What do I do if its pulling more amps than it should?
    What do I do if its not pulling enough amps?

    Again, thank you for all the help. I've decided that if I cant get this sorted out by the end of next week I will need to return it for my money back and get a spreader from arrowhead equipment.
     
  17. JCark

    JCark Member
    Messages: 87

    anyone...?
     
  18. Plowfixguys

    Plowfixguys Senior Member
    Messages: 222

    Hey Clark sorry took so long to get back to you been crazy busy.
    If you have an Amp meter check the draw at the spreader when its working properly, as the problem starts to happen monitor the amps and see what it does (fluctuates or stays steady. Is it higher or lower then when it was working properly). Do this on both + & - sides. Just remember - will be a little lower then the +. We are looking for consistency of the amps when the problem is not happening and when it is.
    Have you tried to hook the unit up to the other battery in the truck? Maybe there is resistance in the cables.
    Do you have a good spare battery? Try hooking the spreader up to the spare and see what happens.
    I have been in the automotive and truck repair business for 20 years and I have learned that just because a battery tests good, doesn't mean it is good.

    Keep us informed!
     
  19. JCark

    JCark Member
    Messages: 87

    Alright, I got the amp meter and I will do this once I get out of work and report the results. I bought a diehard platinum battery and will also try hooking it to that to see if I get the same issue. The problem is, the issue is so intermittent now its hard to tell when it will do it again. Ill keep you posted and thanks for the help!
     
  20. JCark

    JCark Member
    Messages: 87

    Here is the information:

    Functioning properly @ 13.4 Volts to the controller

    Before spreader motor
    + 4.10 Amps fluctuates a littile
    - 4.10 Amps fluctuates a little

    Before controller
    + 2.5 Amps fluctuates a little
    - 2.5 Amps fluctuates a little

    When Issue occurs @ 13.4 Volts to controller

    Before spreader motor
    + .08 Amps stays steady
    - 0 Amps stays steady

    Before Controller
    + .08 Amps stays steady
    - 0 Amps stays steady

    I would like to add that I hear a relay clicking in the controller once the issue occurs.
    I have not yet tested the spreader while connected to an external battery, I will do that tomorrow.
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2011