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new in here,opinions welcome

Discussion in 'Jeeps' started by drunkencitywork, Feb 16, 2006.

  1. drunkencitywork

    drunkencitywork Junior Member
    from chicago
    Messages: 9

    Well my 80K-5 finally bit it. The rust became to much to overcome after I missed the only 2 plowable snows we have had on the s.side of chicago, and I refused to put anymore cash into it. I had made my money on the beast. I had researched fairly thuroughly the jeep YJs and saw an opportunity to make a clean break(why cant my relationships end this neatly).

    I put up my 93 TBird(165,000 on last legs), the K-5 with MM1 7.5(way to heavy and needed major fabrication for YJ), and $1,000 for a 95YJ. Now before you guys rip me, its 2.5 4 cyl w/auto bone stock. The key to the deal was getting out with old and in with new in one swoop. The major plus side is this YJ was pampered it is 99% rust free and extremely clean.

    Question 1: Will it be worth my while to search the junkyards for mounting kits since pumps and blades are usually easily findable in decent used condition from various other vehicles or just go new.


    Question 2: 1st thing I am going to do is use por15 on small surface rust under drivers floor mat (common jeep problem due to leaks) and herculine the heck out of whole floor thru the interior. I will por15 the small surface rust(very limited) on undercarrage. Then ziebart will apply new complete undercoating for $125. Has anyone tried one of those electric rust proofing kits that hooks to battery and attacks rust at molecular level? Does anyone have any other ideas to try to keep rust off this vehicle? I plan on taking prevention to an extreme on this vehicle.


    Question 3: I understand that the auto is not the best for a 4cyl YJ when plowing. Besides cooling fans is there a shift kit or a better gear that I can have for when my next rebuild is due. I taake care of the local trans shop guys snow and he takes care of me and my guy when we have trans problems. 5 min of plow time is=a friend at the trans shop. I would just like to educate myself on it before it happens. Might even think of changing to stick if need be, but auto is nice in city driving when running 90lb jackhammer all day.

    Question 4: I hear alot about the 2.5 lift which I could live with. But has anyone tried a shackle lift for that 1 to 1.5 inch plow up dip. And has anyone tried a rear reciever carry cage for ballast wieght.

    Sorry for the marathon but if you could see me try and type this much you would be laughing your snow balls off
     
  2. martyman

    martyman Senior Member
    Messages: 281

    I plowed with a rusty jeep (my nickname on jeeps unlimited was martysrustyredjeep). It was a 4 cylinder 5 speed and it worked ok for small residentials. I burned out the clutch trying to do really big homes and sold it to a guy for $500 because it was falling apart. You have to decide how much money you can afford to put into an older vehicle, because once you start pounding on it with a plow it will fall apart that much quicker. If it runs ok and your planning on doing small residentials try to find a used plow and see how you do for a small amount of homes, say 20 and do it per plow. The real way to start a proper Jeep plow business is to buy a newer TJ with a 6 cylinder auto and a newer plow (I need a new one) and then you will be confident to take contracts. POR 15 is great stuff, but if your frame is pooched and all the mechanical stuff on your jeep is toast then it's a waist of money.
     
  3. drunkencitywork

    drunkencitywork Junior Member
    from chicago
    Messages: 9

    thanks there marty, I have been plowing since 99. My 1980 K-5 finally was done in by mucho rusto. I have been associated with 4-5 different subcontractors and still have an outstanding reputation for being punctual and diligent with my services. Me and my bud have a hand full of smaller accounts close to home that we handle depending who is in the neihborhood. I have no doubt that I would be able to piece together a nice 8 hour small lot only route through my connections, this is the first time I've had to sit on the bench since 99.
    I get calls to drive for other co.. every snow but my problem is my unemployment during the winter I am not going to risk 1900 a month to make 25hr in someoneelses truck. When I do work in my truck I have my ways where uncle sam gets his and I still get mine. I am in a better situation now a days. I dont need the money to survive as I can afford to turn down work but I would be doing this to have the expendable loot to put back into my jeep. If the big one ever comes back to chicago like 99 maybe even get another just as a toy without worrying about taking food off my families plate. So I see this as a win win senario.
    I need some advice on the 4cyl auto. Are there shift kits I can get or a gear or something to solidify the trans sit. since jeep does not recomend plowing with the current combo?
    Also are there any midwestern outlets besides trading times to pick up a used plow? It should pick up a bit in the spring,right?
    One more question what kind of amps are you guys getting out of those jeep alt. and are you runnig 2 battery set ups.
    The suspention shop told me if I take the springs off. They will add a leaf allthe way around for 200. Does this sound good. Iwas thinking new greasable shackles while I was at it. Input????
     
  4. martyman

    martyman Senior Member
    Messages: 281

    Oh man I don't think a 4 banger with an auto will help...it just won't have the balls to push...look for a used straight six 4.0 not 4.2 with an auto and your set. I did the add a leaf and it just made my suspension really really stiff...new gas filled shocks would be better.
     
  5. drunkencitywork

    drunkencitywork Junior Member
    from chicago
    Messages: 9

    I am going to regear my yj 4 bang auto. It currently has 3.73 I want to go with 4.56 or 4.11. The 4.56 (running 31s) is my first choice. However the 4.11 is alot more common since all yj with 4cyl manual are 4.11 stock. does anyone have an idea what would be the best gearing to go with for plowing with a 4bang auto
     
  6. festerw

    festerw Senior Member
    Messages: 986

    Get the 4.56 my brothers 4cy auto w/4.11's on stock tires won't get out of it's own way.
     
  7. drunkencitywork

    drunkencitywork Junior Member
    from chicago
    Messages: 9

    thanks, Ive been looking for some one to back me on this but everyone says go 4.11 cause there more available. I think 4.56 would scream and help with transmission wear. Is there any way to find these in a salvage yard that would fit the dana 35
     
  8. festerw

    festerw Senior Member
    Messages: 986

    Probably won't find any in a salvage yard so you'll have to go new unless you find some on ebay or locally. Though most Jeepers end up swapping the 35 axle out for something stronger before changing gears in them.
     
  9. drunkencitywork

    drunkencitywork Junior Member
    from chicago
    Messages: 9

    Yea, but those guys are usually rock krawlers or guys with I6 or dropped in v8s. I dont think I am going to be snapping axles with my 4squirells. I just plan on daily driver, medium to light duty plow, medium to light duty wheeling. In the catalogs they go for around 150 each axle. Hoping to get them around 200. Hey will lockers help or hurt when pushing snow.
     
  10. festerw

    festerw Senior Member
    Messages: 986

    Sorry I wasn't real clear, I'm not saying you should swap axles, I'm saying that you may have a hard time finding used 4.56's to fit in the stock axles because of the fact that the 35 isn't real strong most won't spend the $$ to put them in an axle that they plan on upgrading.

    Lockers can't hurt and the 95's still have the CAD system so you won't have any problems steering when your not in 4WD.