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New body for an old S-10

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by Alan, Sep 9, 2001.

  1. Alan

    Alan PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,393

    I've been muddling my way through fabricating a new body for my 88 S-10. Short (I clipped the frame right behind the spring shackles) and stout, hopefully without weighing too much.

    Chuck was kind enough to set the saga up on his page, hopefully this link will work to get you there. Opinions in either direction welcome. :)

    www.snowplowing-contractors.com/alan.html

    Ok,, I don't know how to make the link work as a link, but it does fine if you cut and paste. Chuck can you use your powers to make this an operating link?
     
  2. 75

    75 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,382

    Looking good Alan! About the rear light "towers" - couldn't really tell from the photos, I'm assuming there's plenty of drainage out the bottom so dirt & moisture don't build up and cause r*** ?
     
  3. Alan

    Alan PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,393

    Yup, nice big drain holes, I've seen water trapped before. The interiors are going to get well coated with rustproofing as well. It's about impossible to get paint into places like that, but the flex hose on the rustproofing sprayer will get in there and slobber stuff all over everything.

    If it wasn't such a costly option, I'd take it over to Utica and have it galvanized, TAKE THAT, O VILE ROT!
     
  4. 75

    75 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,382

    What amazes (and infuriates!) me is some of the design work I run across when doing repair work, often on big trailers: A section of formed channel welded on the trailer frame as gusseting, forming a boxed-in area. Might be a bit lighter and maybe looks nice, but it's a salt trap. Same with using HSS (tube) in applications such as crossmembers.

    One company, I can't think who offhand but I saw this line in one of their ads, touts as a selling feature of their floats the fact that "We do not use tubes".

    Another quick thought: You mention that on top of each tower there will be an additional tractor light - I'm wondering if they'll be a little vulnerable up there?
     
  5. Alan

    Alan PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,393

    I don't think the tractor lights will be in any danger on top of the light towers. The towers themselves are only 16" above the bed floor, and the lights will sit inside the width of the box so they're pretty well shielded. The ones I will have on the headache rack will be sticking out in the breeze, but so are the ones on the cab guard on my dump truck. They've taken some pretty major shots and all it has ever done is knock the bulb out of the rubber housing. A bigger concern is the trailer plug, which will go in the rear plate next to the receiver. I have backed into snowbanks and had the plug cap get "cookie cuttered" right into the plug itself. What I do now is put a couple pieces of trimmed angle on there and slide a little steel plate door into them. Makes the plug bulletproof and it's quick and easy to drop into place.

    The tube that forms the headache rack is open at the bottom and both ends of the top tube dupm into the legs. I'll shoot that all with rustproofing as well. All the wiring for the accessory lights will be inside the tubes or run in conduit so that won't get torn off by having ice build up on it.
     
  6. plowking35

    plowking35 2000 Club Member
    from SE CT
    Messages: 2,923

    Alan what we all need is a graco spray unit and some product from Vinnie. that way we can urethane coat our bodies and keep all the rust away, and make them non skid as well.
    Dino
     
  7. Alan

    Alan PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,393

    Dino, that would be fantastic! I wonder what the pot life is on that stuff so you could mix it up and spray it on with a schutz gun like you would undercoating.

    Now that I think about it, this really was meant to be in the fabricating forum, my mistake that I started it here. What's the consenus, should it get moved to weld & fab?
     
  8. plowking35

    plowking35 2000 Club Member
    from SE CT
    Messages: 2,923

    Leave it here, it is on a chevy.
    As long as part A and part B dont meet, the shelf life should be pretty long. A call to Vinnie may be in order.
    Dino
     
  9. Alan

    Alan PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,393

    I was thinking of pot life, how long it stays workable after you mix the C Stoff and T Stoff.
     
  10. 75

    75 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,382

    It's fine here - as Dino pointed out, it IS on a Chevy!
     
  11. CT18fireman

    CT18fireman Banned
    Messages: 2,133

    I just finished a similiar project on my Toyota 4x4. I build a dump body and added a dual rear end and one ton springs. I plan on running a 5 foot sander on it this year for small lots and drives. I will put together a photo album online soon.
     
  12. Chuck Smith

    Chuck Smith 2000 Club Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 2,317

    I just added 2 more pages of pictures. The bed is really coming along. Alan said he has about 80 hours of labor in the job thus far.


    ~Chuck
     
  13. 75

    75 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,382

    Coming along nicely Alan - I have the same attitude about "overkill" - if you overbuild it you only have to do it once! :D

    When I built a headache rack for my '75 (2" x 3" HSS) I elected to keep my wiring on the outside of the tube for accessibility in the event of repairs being needed. It's wrapped in the black split loom, with fittings & attachment clips ransacked from numerous GM trucks & cars that have gone to the scrapper.

    Being between the cab & rack, my rack's wiring isn't very visible but having seen your "in progress" photos, I think I may change that the next time the truck gets major work done & run the wiring inside the tube - good clean "finished" appearance. (Besides, haven't had any need to do wiring repairs anyway! :) )

    Will your license plate mount to the rear of the platform above the hitch, or will you carry it up on the rack? (I'm running a pair of the older twin sealed beam rotator lights, the chrome bases on them are big enough that I was able to put a licence plate light in the mounting plates for the rotors & run the licence plate up high on the rack, out of harms way & still has a light as per "the law". (Ontario plate on the left, Canada flag "novelty" plate on the right)
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2001
  14. Alan

    Alan PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,393

    Rob, great minds must think alike. I've got about half a grain bag ful of split loom I've been pulling out of junkyard donors. All I can find in the stores is 1/2", but GM trucks have it in sizes that must run from 1/4 to 1 1/2". I go through the carcasses like an avenging angel, and get the loom, attaching clips and those nice little 1/2" "T" fittings. And it's also standard for me to clean out all the fuse boxes I find. I really hate to see some of the stuff that ends up in the crusher, it would be SO usable for projects if I only had a place to organize it so I could retreive it when I need a certain piece. Incidentally, the GM "weatherpack" connectors they use for the box harness to vehicle harness connection make great detachable connectors for headache racks and such. Unlike the plastic trailer plugs they don't rot out in two years. This box will end up with two of them, one for four legs of power to various accessory lighting and a two holer that will be the ground line. Even with the body bolted in multiple palces I still feel better having a solid ground connection.

    I've gotten into burying my wiring whenever I can. I'll slip a section of heat shrink around the bundle before I make the connections and then shrink it down whereever there is a sharp corner to go around. All my connections get soldered and every light gets a dedicated ground wire if possible. It takes me a while to do it that way, but I rarely have to repair anything. It wouldn't be practical to pay a shop to do it that way, but I can spend my time however I choose.

    The plate will be mounted on the far left end of the bumper, right below the taillight tower. I never considered anywhere else until a couple days ago and I went "DUH!, could have mounted it up top!"

    I managed to get paint on that rack today, as well as getting a bedliner sprayed on. Had to hustle to get it done ahead of the rain, but it's just about finished now. If the rain turns out to be only drizzle tomorrow I'll pull in all the wires for the auxiliary lights while the body is on horses. Once we set it back on the truck I'll connect the vehicle lights. I know I'll have to add some length ot the harness and I don't dare do it until it's in place
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2001
  15. CT18fireman

    CT18fireman Banned
    Messages: 2,133

    Alan talk to the local car stereo installation place. They should be able to connect you with a source to buy all sizes of loom. I have a catalog somewhere from my supplier I will try to dig it up.
     
  16. 75

    75 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,382

    Well, let's try this again..................

    Since yesterday's post went "missing" (the result of a server move, I believe) I'll try this again: Here's a snapshot of my headache rack, showing the licence plate installation.

    The light is mounted to the round plate that serves as a mount for the rotor light, and the chrome rotor base covers everything up nicely.

    My wiring runs up the tube to the left of the slider window, then along the top tube. It's mounted between the tube & cab so it's fairly well hidden, but I still like the idea of having it inside the tube better. Next major overhaul that's one of the planned "upgrades"

    BTW, that blue light is OK where I am - here in Ontario it denotes "snowplow" :D

    headache rack.jpg
     
  17. CT18fireman

    CT18fireman Banned
    Messages: 2,133

    What Happened??? A lot of posts are missing.
     
  18. 75

    75 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,382

    CT18 - check in over at Lawnsite, in the "Support and Announcements" forum - there's an explanation there. Basically, there was a server move & posts from about 6:00 pm yesterday to around 2:45 pm today are missing.
     
  19. CT18fireman

    CT18fireman Banned
    Messages: 2,133

    well that is a shame. there was a lot of good discussion this weekend.
     
  20. Alan

    Alan PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,393

    Oh good, that explains where my update to this thread went. Thought maybe I was getting Oldtimers Disease and only thought I had posted.