1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

Need to replace center pivot bolt on SW

Discussion in 'Blizzard Plows Discussion' started by TurfSolutionsMN, Feb 6, 2009.

  1. TurfSolutionsMN

    TurfSolutionsMN Senior Member
    from MN
    Messages: 302

    I had my center pivot bolts nut fall off some time this winter. I tried just to screw a nut on but the bolts threads are shot. I tried everything I can do to get the bolt out, but I cant. Is there any tricks to get it out? Theres no move ment to it whats so ever. Any help would be great!!
  2. beam

    beam Senior Member
    from pa
    Messages: 314

    sounds like it is bent??? try moving the a frame with some help from a friend maybe it will come out the or just use torches to remove the head of the bolt
  3. Alaska Boss

    Alaska Boss PlowSite.com Addict
    from Alaska
    Messages: 1,951

    Well, that's really strange,... because my lock-nut was missing on my SW too (along with some other things),... I thought for sure that the dealer had just forgotten to put the nut on, because it's a nylon lock-nut,... how could that just fall off? They gave me a new bolt, but I haven't replaced it yet, because the bolt doesn't appear to be trying to work it's way up,... and if the nut did just fall off, then I need to do something else besides, or this new one will just come off again too,... makes me wonder now if these nuts do really just fall off,... :confused:

    Blizzard bolt (Small).JPG

  4. Mark Oomkes

    Mark Oomkes PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,395

    Yes, they do. Nylocks suck.

    Pretty much every one of mine has lost one or loosened up.
  5. beam

    beam Senior Member
    from pa
    Messages: 314

    very common on all plows 860sw and had happen to 810s. I think the bolt is to short for 860sw needs a 1/4 inch to work with the washer maybe weld the nut on I have done that before
  6. magnatrac

    magnatrac PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,055

    After reading this I just ran out to see if I still had mine. I have been tearing up hardware this season so I was happily suprised to see it's still there !!! My bolt is about 1/16-1/8 past the nut so it's just the right length. Is there a difference between they S.W's. that came from calumet and the new ones? Different hardware suppliers ?

    I have had to replace all of the hardware on my push beam. I noticed it was loose and tightened it up ,but that only lasted one push. New hardware fixed it. I also lost a wing edge. I don't know how but I found it:D It was laying in the snow with the bolts still frozen in the holes. The threads were all chewed up. My wings are now held on with longer bolts and double nuts. I am starting to wonder if the TSC. hardware is really grade 8.

  7. TurfSolutionsMN

    TurfSolutionsMN Senior Member
    from MN
    Messages: 302

    Thanks for the impute you guys I just looked under my 8611 and thats missing the nut too. I called my dealer to see if this was a common thing, he said the nuts always fall off and check them after each storm. He said that he has never heard of a bolt working itself out before. The one on my SW worked itself out a good inch thats how I noticed it, but now I cant get it out. Do you think I could just leave it in there. Maybe I could just put a couple welds on it.
  8. Jerre Heyer

    Jerre Heyer Senior Member
    Messages: 948

    The center bolts have been 1/4" short off and on thru production since Calumet. They had started to use full shoulder bolts in 2004 with a washer under the nut. All of the Calumet plows used an actual jamb lock nut but even these work loose over time and vibration.

    We've been replacing any that were too short with a longer full shoulder bolt with Hardened washers under the head and the nut and GOD FORBID.......Putting a bead of weld on the nut and bolt when reassembling them.

    AS FOR THE MOUNT hardward.........................DD seems to think that Grade 5 hardware is just fine. They also don't seem to believe in Hardened washers under the bolt head and Nut and like NYLOCKS over TORQUE/JAMB locks for the nuts.

    Been using all grade 8 for years and put it in instead of the Grade 5 that they supply with the plows.

  9. Mark Witcher

    Mark Witcher Senior Member
    Messages: 604

    To get the bolt out , just stand the plow up on its face and get out your big ass hammer and punch. Drive it out from the bottom.
  10. PTSolutions

    PTSolutions PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,533

    what we did to alleviate the problem of the nut backing off, is to tighten the nut onto the center pivot pin as usual, then we drilled a hole through the nut and bolt in that position and applied a smaller bolt with lock washer and tightened that down so that the nut wont back off the pivot pin anymore. or you could use a really big cotter pin.
  11. Detroitdan

    Detroitdan PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,937

    My bolt seems to be really sloppy, I haven't checked for the nut yet, but when the plow is lifted, I can rock it up and down from either end a lot. So theres a lot of play in the centerpin area. Is it likely the bolt is just worn down, or is there a sleeve or something that could be ovalled out? And is this a regular bolt I can replace, not something special? Somebody just told me the Blizzard bolt is around 30 bucks.

    Need to get this fixed soon, winters almost here. I'd like to do the blade stop mod too while I'm at it, was just going to weld a couple big nuts on top for stops. So the stupid blade won't overextend and tear apart another stupid piston.