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Need some help with old western unimount (ground Issues)

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by brody98, Oct 12, 2010.

  1. brody98

    brody98 Junior Member
    from Iowa
    Messages: 6

    Bought an old Chevy 2500 ('90) with a western unimount on it. Been fixing it up and using it every year for the last 2 years on my 1/4 mile driveway. It's always been weak lifting the blade but worked well enough to get the job done. This summer I replaced the pump and motor (new style motor with ground lug on motor) Question.. it dosent want to run the motor when you move the control stick..since the old motor was grounded via the cable at the base of the old motor at the bolt and the new motor has it's own ground lug is that causing the control issue because the control cables are somehow no longer grounded through the pump body?? do I need to run a short ground jumper from the motor lug to the mount bolt to ground the case again?
     
  2. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Should be a small black/orange wire popping out from under the solenoid cover that's usually grounded to the pump, sounds like you lost/over looked that wire. If the coils don't have ground via that wire you'll lose all functions.
     
  3. brody98

    brody98 Junior Member
    from Iowa
    Messages: 6

    It dosent have any coils, sorry I should have stated that this is the old cable operated kind
     
  4. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    If your heavy ground cable is from the ground lug on the motor to the negative battery terminal and you power cable is good it should work. Has no bearing on the actual control cables.

    So you either have a weak connection on the existing power/ground cables, a bad underhood solenoid or the motor is defective. A quick hit with a set of jumper cables will tell you which it is.
     
  5. brody98

    brody98 Junior Member
    from Iowa
    Messages: 6

    The way it should work (according to the manual) the ground to the controller travels through the control cables. I'll try grounding the motor to the pump case to see it it restores the ground in the control box.
     
  6. no lead

    no lead PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,308

    there is a small black wire that goes from the solenoid to the controller. u must have this connected. put power and ground to the motor. does it run?
     
  7. brody98

    brody98 Junior Member
    from Iowa
    Messages: 6

    Yeah that wire to the solenoid is connected, in fact it's brand new, I replaces the bottom plate and the "brass" piece that mounts to the stick and makes the connection for lift and angle. still doesn't work via control stick.. works when you ground the solenoid or jump directly, only thing I can think of is the way it originally was it had a ground lug at the base of the motor with one of the motor mounting bolts through it and now it grounds the motor through the lug on the motor, maybe since there is a cork gasket between the motor and the pump body it isnt grounded well enough to get a ground through the control cables.
     
  8. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    The control stick isn't sending ground to the solenoid because it (the control stick ) has no ground. Add a ground on the control stick.
     
  9. brody98

    brody98 Junior Member
    from Iowa
    Messages: 6

    The stick itself.. no the brass piece attached to it via 1 screw and 2 ball tip pins does. Look at a pdf of a western Mark llla control. page 24. says right on the bottom of the page next to the picture of it (ground through control cables) Ultimately that is what Im going to do because im not wanting to spend 200 bucks on a new one. I was just hoping someone else had ran into that before and would give me a quick fix tip.
     
  10. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    You kind of missed the point I believe. Adding the ground prevents the need to ground through the cables, thus making the system more reliable while making the cables last longer and operate smoother.

    When you moved the ground to the isolated stud on the new motor you lost ground through the cables, thus the control has no ground. Adding the ground wire I spoke of eliminates the issue and adds reliability to the control system.
     
  11. lukynskywyrd

    lukynskywyrd Member
    from wisc.
    Messages: 54

    Ground issue....

    I think I have the same issue. I replaced the solenoid and that checks out but now there is no sparking at the controller when I contact the brass tabs with the center sleeve and wire.
     
  12. lukynskywyrd

    lukynskywyrd Member
    from wisc.
    Messages: 54

    Hey BB....adding a ground to the control stick

    could you please elaborate? Thanks
     
  13. lukynskywyrd

    lukynskywyrd Member
    from wisc.
    Messages: 54

    ground issue solved BB....

    I added a ground from the block to the brass bar and it works.....thanks.
     
  14. lukynskywyrd

    lukynskywyrd Member
    from wisc.
    Messages: 54

    very simple fix too, ran a wire from the engine block to the screw that holds the brass contact bar on the piece where the cables snap on to and rotate. I agree this is a better ground connection.
     
  15. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Good to see you figured it out on your own. Didn't need us after all. :salute:
     
  16. lukynskywyrd

    lukynskywyrd Member
    from wisc.
    Messages: 54

    BB...your idea helped alot! Im re-aquainting myself with an old Isarmatic Mk 111a, 7'6" plow hooked to an '86 Chevy p/u. 2 new hydraulic hoses, ram seal and a solenoid and Im good to go for the first snow fall. Its alot different than my "Pops" 2000 F-150 with its brand new Pro Plow set up but alot less expensive too!