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Need some help from my BOSS brothers...

Discussion in 'Boss Plows Discussion' started by plowzilla, Nov 24, 2007.

  1. plowzilla

    plowzilla Senior Member
    Messages: 289

    My Boss RT3 Staiaght blade is going on its forth season. After i hooked it up, it raised fine, went left and right fine. When I went to lower it only a little, it continued to slowly fall to the ground. Normally a quick press on the down button and it would lower an inch or two and stop. Then I got it home, And it did not want to raise, go left or right. I had to play around with up/down/ left/right to get it to respond. Fluid level is fine and my guess is the solenoid. Also when I went to remove the plow, the motor kept running when I would let go of the quick hitch toggle switch. Can this all be connected somehow or is the switch bad as well? Any help would surely be appreciated. Thank you.
     
  2. wild bill

    wild bill PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,239

    sticky situation

    could be in the solenoid but i would look at the smart hitch switch also they came out with a sealed switch that is a lot better msc01889 ,i would check the connection's at the valve's make sure there is not a buildup of crud or corrosion between the valve stem's and the coil's. check all your relays for corrosion at the terminal's and in the connectors for the relay's .if you have a good spare swap out one at a time to see if it help's .
     
  3. NoFearDeere

    NoFearDeere PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,714

    Do exactly what wildbill said....good advice:salute:
     
  4. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Pay more attention to the connector plugs (corrosion wise) rather than the under hood relay pack. Never hurt's to check them too but they wouln't cause the trouble your having as they only control the head lights and feed power to the controller (#1 is controller power and #2 #3 #4 control the lights)....

    When it wouldn't raise or angle did the motor run?
     
  5. Rangerman

    Rangerman Senior Member
    Messages: 148

    If you are comfortable with your wrenchs try pulling your selinoids and cleaning the screens Cleaning with a good carb and choke cleaner seems to always work well. Make sure to change your fluid annually.
     
  6. plowzilla

    plowzilla Senior Member
    Messages: 289

    Yeah the motor ran. I found a small black unhooked from my new battery (Sears install). I am hoping this has something to do with it. Only problem is my smart hitch 2 switch is not lifting the plow up to mount it. When I push up it pushes down and when I push down it pushes down. I ordered a new switch that Wild Bill recommended. I also took the valves off the hyd manifold. They seemed to be clean but wow was there some corrosion inbetween the coil and valves. I will let you guys know what happens. Thank you for the help/education.
     
  7. plowzilla

    plowzilla Senior Member
    Messages: 289

    Hey Wild Bill, There was alot of corrosion inbetween the coils and valves. I ordered the switch. I will let you know what happens after I install it. thanks again.
     
  8. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    A good tip...before reinstalling the coils back on the valves, give each stem a shot of Fluid Film. It really helps to keep the corrosion at bay.
    If your coils had corrosion on them then your SH switch probably does too...the replacement switch should fix you up.
    The small wire you found disconnected is the ground wire for the plow harness.I'm surprised it worked at all with the wire disconnected.

    Btw, the wire should be brown not black, just in case you need to diagnosis it further...
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2007
  9. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    B&B, how many plows a year do you fix that had a new battery installed and they failed to hook up the plow wiring?
    I bet we see at least 4 every fall. It's gotten to the point if I open hood and see new battery it's the first thing I check.
     
  10. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Enough, that's for sure. As soon as they say "my plow worked fine last year but now it won't work", the first thing I ask them is what they had done to the truck over the summer...like anything that would require the battery to be disconnected for any reason.... most of the time it's on a truck that had either a new battery installed or some type of audio upgrades done. I can't count how many I fixed over the years by reinserting the power wire for the controller into the CORRECT terminal in the fuse panel after is was bumped or pulled out by someone working under the dash and reinserted into the wrong outlet that only had power when a specific accessory was turned on.

    I had a buddy of mine call just last week with plow trouble after pulling it out of storage. He told me the pump would only run if he held the ignition switch in the start position! Wasn't too hard to figure that one out. When the plow was originally installed,the installer had connected the battery cable wire for the plow pump to the starter solenoid, and of course it was on the battery side (hot side) of the solenoid. Well, some time over the summer he had replaced the starter solenoid and had accidentally connected the plow cable to the starter side of the solenoid. Whoops!
     
  11. plowzilla

    plowzilla Senior Member
    Messages: 289

    Thanks for the info. I swapped out the switch and the plow still will not mount. It still seems like it just wants to push down whether I move the toggle up or down. I am curious about one thing, when I was cleaning the coils and valves, two of the valves were spring loaded and moved up and down (from the bottom, probably open and close). The third for the smart hitch did not move inside at all. Do you know if this valve is supposed to open and close like the others? If it is then maybe thats why the plow will not go up to mount. I appreciate all your guys help.
     
  12. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Yes the SH valve should move inside like any of the other's.

    Did you check the SH coil to see if it had magnatizem with the switch flipped to "connect"?
     
  13. plowzilla

    plowzilla Senior Member
    Messages: 289

    No, how do I do that?
     
  14. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Activate the SH switch and hold a metal object like a wrench, or the end of a screw driver near the coil. You should feel the coil pull on the wrench. That's how the spool inside the valves are moved, the coil become magnified when power is applied to it and it pulls the spool inside the valve, thus opening the valve to allow hydraulic fluid to flow through it.
     
  15. plowzilla

    plowzilla Senior Member
    Messages: 289

    Alright, I tried that. No pull on the wrench. BUT... Since the coils are all the same, I swapped out the coil to the left (lift/lower valve). The coil in question (SH) grabbed bigtime on the lift/lower valve, and the coil working on the lift/lower would not work on the SH valve!!! I checked the power connection to the SH coil and everything is connected. But heres what i do not understand, Why is the lift lower coil magnetized? I am in float. Could this be the problem? Maybe it is powering down and that is why the coil on the SH will not magnetize? What do you think? Again I appreciate all your help. Glen
     
  16. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    The SH2 setup uses a combination of the lift valve, the lower valve, and the SH valve to either raise or lower the tower depending on which way your going. It also has to be in float to send power to the SH switch since the the SH switch is powered by a jumper off the lower coil (orange wire). Did you check for power at the SH coil with a test light while holding the switch on?
     
  17. plowzilla

    plowzilla Senior Member
    Messages: 289

    Yes I did but it was difficult by myself. The reading seemed high, i do not remember what it was. I also checked the lift/lower coil and it was 12.8.
     
  18. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    So the SH coil had power but no magnetism?

    What about ground?

    Since you said before about swapping the coils, and the one originally off the SH valve worked fine on one of the other valve, it sounds like an electrical problem.

    I'd double check for power and ground at the SH coil to be sure...
     
  19. plowzilla

    plowzilla Senior Member
    Messages: 289

    Yeah I wrapped an extra wire around the ground side and touched it to a bolt on the frame. I hit the switch and still nothing. Should the lift/lower coil alway be magnetized in float?
     
  20. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Please let me first clear up some terminology here so theirs no confusion...

    The lift and lower valve's (and coils) are 2 different valve's. One lifts and the other lowers. They are referred to as a "lift/lower" valve because the lift valve and the lower valve are the same part number and will interchange.
    In other words there's 2, and they are the same exact valve, but each one performs a certain function.

    To answer your question....
    The lower valve (orange wire) should have power when in float..Thats one of the reasons it has to be in float for the SH switch to work, because the SH switch gets it's power from the lower coil to operate the SH coil/valve.