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Need Serious help (Wheel Bearings?????)

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by MarioGMC, Nov 17, 2010.

  1. MarioGMC

    MarioGMC Junior Member
    Messages: 10

    Hey guys So here's the deal. I went out in april and bought myself a 2004 GMC Reg Cab Long Box Z71, 6.0L with 80,000km's on it. I bought it knowing it had bent rims on it because it had a bad vibration when driving. So I put 4 brand new rims on with 4 mitchelin LTX tires. For the most part it helped with the vibration BUT didn't solve the problem completely. So i went and took it a step further and put 4 new shocks in, did the breaks all the way around, all new U-joints, had the trany transfer case and the diffs serviced as well the whole front-end serviced(greased and made sure all joints are up to par) also got the drive shafts turned to make sure they are true. And with doing all that to the truck it still hasn't fixed the problem and i'm at a loss with the issue. SSSSSOOOOOOOO...... after saying all that how would someone know if the wheel bearings are shot??????? or if someone has any other ideas for me, then i would love to hear your feedback.
     
  2. maverjohn

    maverjohn Senior Member
    Messages: 902

    are you talking that you have steering wheel shake or vibrtion commihg through the steering wheel
     
  3. BlizzardBeater

    BlizzardBeater Senior Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 420

    To check the wheel bearings, these are actually sealed hub units, jack up the front of the truck and grab the tire at twelve oclock and six oclock and rock it back and forth. If you have any play, check to see where your getting it, usually its the hub. Some fail without becoming loose, they will make a growling sound while traveling down the road that gets worse when you turn the wheel one way and better when you turn it the other. As for the vibration, is it at all speeds, certain speeds, steering wheel, seat of your pants, etc?
     
  4. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,038

    You threw that much $$ into it, and you didn't think to ask yourself if you were using the right shop? First, you need to find a different shop. Yes Dealerships are bit more expensive, but atleast they know how to diagnose the problem effectively (most times anyway). They're not going to keep throwing parts at it until the problem goes away.

    Lift your truck up, take ahold of the wheel (tire) at the 9 & 3 position and again at the 12 & 6 position, jerk it back and forth; is there any play? Check your inner and outer tie rods for play as well. If the Hub Assemblies haven't been changed out yet, chances are that is what it is, but the later mentioned parts are also notorious culprits as well. Take it to a reputable shop, you'll save yourself some serious coin.
     
  5. badabing1512

    badabing1512 Senior Member
    Messages: 370

    damn for all that money you couldve taken it to the stealer and told them to figure it out :cry:
     
  6. carkey351

    carkey351 Senior Member
    Messages: 229

    one quick check for the transfer case is to push up down on the yoke as it goes into the case and see if there is too much play...my T-case bearings are all shot and there is a load of play, causing the driveshaft to move a lot. If it is an automatic T-case (np 246) chances are it could be bad...
     
  7. MarioGMC

    MarioGMC Junior Member
    Messages: 10

    thanks guys for your in put.

    I have had the truck at 4 different shops, with none of them being able to figure it out.
    The vibration happens all the time from 2 km/h to 110km/h. I don't feel it in the steering wheel i feel it the most in my ass and back on the seat. and its not RPM sensitive. the truck is going to the 5th and final shop on Monday and we will see what he comes up with. I am going to jack it up tonight and check the ply in the hubs.

    Any further help is greatly appreciated
    Ask me more questions to narrow it down


    As for the money i spent in parts is not really a concern for me as i would have most likely replaced them in the near future anyways.
     
  8. BlizzardBeater

    BlizzardBeater Senior Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 420

    If you're feeling it in your fanny, the vibration is coming from the rear. Could be a bad u joint, I know you said you checked them but it could be seized hard. For as cheap as they are, replace them both if in question. I have also seen where when they were replaced, they were tightened off center causing quite a vibration. Loosen the retaining straps and recenter the u joint and retighten. Could be play in the rear end, the bearings could be shot. Check for up and down play on the driveshaft at the rear differential. Could also be the transfer case. Could be a lot of things. It's not the front end though if you're not getting it in the steering wheel. Does it get worse or better if your on or off the throttle? Better or worse going up or down hills? Anything else can help!
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2010
  9. mnglocker

    mnglocker Senior Member
    Messages: 923

    There's a TSB for the steering colum shaft. A GM dealer can install a bushing on the shaft and it sucks up the little bit of precieved play/vibration in the steering.
     
  10. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,038

     
  11. MarioGMC

    MarioGMC Junior Member
    Messages: 10

    the feeling is at its worst when driving around 60 - 100km/h down ruff road when the vibration/rebound is so ridiculas I feel it through the whole turck. When on a very smooth road the vibration is much more tollerable with a light vibration through ass and my back on the seat.
     
  12. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,038

    You may find the pitman arm is toast. Get under there and go monkey on all the steering and suspension components. Make sure the wheels are raised.
     
  13. the new boss 92

    the new boss 92 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,989

    i had sezied ujoints's and it messed with me for about a week! figured it out a kicked my self right in the ass for replacing as much as i did! ALWAYS ALWAYS check you joints as your first step in a vibration no matter were it is coming from! then from there got to stering parts after that berings and so on. rule of thumb i always check the cheap stuff first then i let the pocket book in play!
     
  14. maverjohn

    maverjohn Senior Member
    Messages: 902

    I agree with the new boss 92, from what you said and the money you have spent try new u-joints again and have the drive shaft checked for stightness and balence
     
  15. MarioGMC

    MarioGMC Junior Member
    Messages: 10

    So I had a chance tonight to get a little dirty under the truck and do some more searching for problems. I pulled the drive shaft and made sure the u-joints move freely and are not binding. While I was under there I jacked up the front end and was checking the play with the tires and noticed the pit-man arm and Idler arm are shot. But I still wasn't convinced this was the problem, so I lowered the front end and chalked the tires, lifted the rear axle and put it on axle stands; I hoped in the truck, put it in drive only to find everything runs smooth until I hit the breaks. When I lock up the rear end I feel the excessive vibration in the seat as I explained in earlier posts. So I hop out and get my bro to sit in the seat and hit the breaks while in drive as I take a look under the truck. And as far as I can see it looks like the whole trany and transfer case is what is the cause of the vibrations(Making the rubber trany mount really move). So I believe the problem is in or has something to do the trany/transfer case/rear end.

    Now in saying all this has anyone ever had to have the trany or engine rubber mounts replaced?????????

    The truck goes into the shop tomorrow for the steering parts and hopefully a better opinion on the vibration.

    Any more feedback is greatly appreciated .
     
  16. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,038

    I bet your going to find that the pitman & idler arm is what the issue is. PM B&B on the mount situation....I think he'll know best. Not that means anything, but I've never heard of anyone having to replace transmissions mounts...not this early in the game anyway. Again, Mike would probably know best on this topic. Congrats on the dio..
     
  17. brad96z28

    brad96z28 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,526

    Pitman and idler arm are not gona make it shake like that. And the movement that u see are probally due to not having the braces My truck does the same thing and so will new ones shortly afer u put them In, its a poor design, Unless the ball and socked have in and out play. The side to side U wont get rid of untill u get the braces. Id say something in the rear for sure.
     
  18. tac48

    tac48 Member
    Messages: 41

    I have been seeing some engine mounts wasted lately on trucks around your year but with higher milage. Not many trans mounts. Most of the time the driver never even notices the bad engine mounts. One guy didn't notice anything until the engine dropped far enough to wear the bottom out of his fan shroud. I won't mention any names J.:laughing:
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2010