1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

Need pump bracket info for: 2000 GMC K3500

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by Alloutofdonuts, Dec 22, 2009.

  1. Alloutofdonuts

    Alloutofdonuts Junior Member
    from NH
    Messages: 23

    Truck is a 2000 GMC K3500(old style), wondering if anyone has a picture/illistration or link for the bracket that attatches the plow pump/motor to the engine?

    The plow is an 8ft hydro plow (crank belt driven) that I took off a 1990 Chevy 1500. The bracket doesn't fit obviously but I can't even see a way to fabricate something that would. It doesn't look like there's much to bolt to on the drivers side(unless I took out the A/C which aint gonna happen).

    My other question, how do you tell who the plow manufacturer is? I thought it was a Fisher but it doesn't have any tags that I've found(yet). But it looks similar in most of it's components to a 6ft Fisher Speedcast I had a while ago. Sorry if I'm leaving info out, but any thing info wise would be much appreciated....:salute:
     
  2. Alloutofdonuts

    Alloutofdonuts Junior Member
    from NH
    Messages: 23

    Anbody lend me a clue?

    I did look through the Fisher site for what seems like days but I can only find illistrations of the plow frame and brackets that attatch the plow to the frame, but none of the pump/motor or brackets for that. Something to go by would be great!

    :)

    edit: Found the schematics of the pump brackets, I guess I was looking at too much stuff.

    I read on here someone was using the power steering pump for the plow pump too with a remote res. for the plow pump, any one hit me with any links to info on that while I'm searching?
     
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2009
  3. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    About the only illustration you'll find for anything belt drive assuming it's a small block. '96-'00 belt drive
     
  4. dzrick

    dzrick Senior Member
    Messages: 110

    Here are a couple of links for you, I still need to track down the diagrams that I hear were posted awhile ago.
    http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=93016

    http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=87822
     
  5. Alloutofdonuts

    Alloutofdonuts Junior Member
    from NH
    Messages: 23

    Thanks for the replies and links, yup it's the 5.7L engine. Sorry to come off like another lazy bastid that doesn't use the search. I did some more looking on here last night, got some ideas for a bracket and answered a lot of my other questions. I'm still not 100% sure that it's a Speedcast tho, posting some pics would probably help.

    I saw another thread about the power steering pump swap but it sounded a lot more complex and someone thought it might burn the pump out so I dismissed it. If that guy has been running his for a four years without problems, that's more than good enough for me, I only do my driveway anyway. That seems a lot more do-able and less work than making a bracket because I have the pump with built in res. I already modified the rear most mount point of the push-plate parts, that used up my fabrication fun for this little project :dizzy:.

    This place is a wealth of info.:cool:

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2009
  6. Alloutofdonuts

    Alloutofdonuts Junior Member
    from NH
    Messages: 23

    UGH!

    Dur, I just was looking at my truck and it doesn't have that older style type of brake booster so my lines are different! Seems like I could still do it this way(?), but not sure which section of the pressure line to tap; the one 'before' the booster dealie (mounted behind the master cylinder) or the part 'after' booster dealie that goes into the steering gear???
     
  7. dzrick

    dzrick Senior Member
    Messages: 110

    I'd go back to the threads I posted links to and see if the guy that did it can tell you what you need to do.
     
  8. aeronutt

    aeronutt Senior Member
    Messages: 262

    If you tap before the brake booster, the pressure will run the plow before it activates brakes. If you want your brakes to work good while lifting the plow, tap in after the brake booster.
     
  9. Alloutofdonuts

    Alloutofdonuts Junior Member
    from NH
    Messages: 23

    Cool, thanks!!! I took a new older style line I had into the tractor place here & they made me some nice lines that should do the trick. Mine aren't quick disconnect though I would have liked, but I'm too cheap to spend the extra $50. :D Hopefully it won't be a problem just leavign it during summer, if it is I'll still have the stock line I could put back or get a coupling to bypass the valve block. I don't drive it too much in the summer except to the dump and to haul a car or something occasionally. But it looks like I'll have a pump with built in reservoir, crank pulley, and some brackets for a 1990 chevy 305/350 for sale, CHEAP!

    I have another question though, on the ends of the p/s line that go into the gear and the pump, is there suppose to be an O-ring or something on there for a seal or do you put teflon tape/thread sealer on them?? If it is an O-ring, can it be the plain black type or does it need to be the green or other kind?
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2009
  10. aeronutt

    aeronutt Senior Member
    Messages: 262

    The only threads that benefit from thread tape is pipe thread. PS lines are going to be either flare fittings or o-ring. Don't muck 'em up with thread tape. If the fitting is o-ring, black is fine.
     
  11. Alloutofdonuts

    Alloutofdonuts Junior Member
    from NH
    Messages: 23

    Does Fisher use NPT for the most part? I know the fittings on the lines the guy made are, at least that's what he said so I imagine at least the IN/OUT are.

    Got it hooked up and bled for the most part, seems like it should work well. One thing that's wierd is that when I push the joystick down, it lifts (not with as much force). I thought I had it reversed but when I push up on the joystck it lifts as it should. I haven't hooked it up to the plow yet because I didn't want to get it stuck in the up position and not be able to get it off before I checked it out. Seems like it might just need to be adjusted where the linkage meets on the valve block, I'll play with it tomorrow and hopefully get it figured out.
     
  12. Alloutofdonuts

    Alloutofdonuts Junior Member
    from NH
    Messages: 23

    Finally got a chance to hook up the plow and try it out...works awesome! I just figured out why I saw a picture of what looked like an extension made of PVC or something on somones reservior though....to keep that little extra ATF fluid from overflowing when you depress the thingy to unhook the chain!

    Still trying to figure out why, when you press down on the stick it goes up a little(without the weight plow on it)?

    When it has the plow on it drops fine but if the truck is running it will get to a certain point(the plow will be on the ground) and stop about 6" of the up/down cylinder remains out. If you try to push the thing that the chain connects to down by hand it won't budge, if you shut off the truck and push the stick down, then you can move it down by hand.

    I was thinking it was an adjustment on the linkage at the valve block but doesn't seem to be. Maybe there's a leaky o-ring or seal or something in that part of the circuit in the VB? I'll have to play with it some more.