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need help making a controller plz

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by BIG NICKY, Jan 4, 2015.

  1. BIG NICKY

    BIG NICKY Member
    Messages: 43

    hey guys im trying to make a controller as a back up since i have one of the handheld controllers and they are known to fail. i have the switches and the wire needed however i need to know if any of you have a diagram for the wiring because in another thread it was stated that the is one or possibly two diodes needed.

    i am using 2 double pole double throw switches and one single pole single throw switch

    thanks in advance for any help i appreciatit
     
  2. Sprag-O

    Sprag-O Senior Member
    Messages: 220

    Any idea what generation plow you are running? Specifics would be a decent start.

    Most the newer controllers are fleetflex, digital, not just straight up contacts.
     
  3. BIG NICKY

    BIG NICKY Member
    Messages: 43

    sorry its an 8 foot western unimount
     
  4. BIG NICKY

    BIG NICKY Member
    Messages: 43

    and its on a 96 chevy k2500
     
  5. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    You will need two double poll double throw (with spring return to off) and two normal single pole single throw switches plus two diodes capable of carrying about 3 amps at 18 V This is overkill but you don't want them to fail so you must exceed the actual current and voltage that exists.

    The two DPDT switches are for up/down and left/right. The two simple switches are for power to the controller and float.

    I have the diagram but no way, at the moment, to get a graphic into the computer. When I get off work I will use my digital camera and personal computer to forward my catscratch schematic. Stand by
     
  6. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    Here is the schematic for a simple straight blade analog controller. I am no draftsman so bare with me. There are two DPDT switches for left/right and up down. The two SPST switches are for controller power and float mode. Notice the two diodes Unlike the OEM controller you have to manually switch it out of float before you try to lift it up.

    This design is based on the 12 pin, two plug relay control setup for a uni straight blade as shown on page 71 of this link:
    http://library.westernplows.com/ddcommon/dd_pdf/pdfs/22373.07_110108_for_web.pdf

    Looking further it looks like this design will work with both the three port and four port isolation module straight blades with three plugs at the grill. Pretty much any Western straight blade with the six pin plug.

    control.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2015
  7. BIG NICKY

    BIG NICKY Member
    Messages: 43

    Thank you sir i really appreciate it
     
  8. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    There is an error in my diagram... I forgot to draw the link between the bottom two contacts of the R/L switch. The top half of the switch is for the valve coils while the bottom half engages the motor relay. Of course the pump motor must turn for both left and right so if you look at the contact just down and to the left of the letter L on the L/R switch it has no wire drawn on it. There should be a wire shown bridging that contact to the one just down and to the right of the R on the R/L switch. So, in the end, when all wires are connected, the motor should be activated for L, R and Up. Here is a revised and clearer pic.

    schematic.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2015
  9. weevensteven

    weevensteven Junior Member
    Messages: 8

    I was reading this post, and felt I had to put my homemade controller out there. I have been using this for a few years now. I started with a broken hair trimmer, removed the guts, and drilled four holes in it for the pushbuttons. The wiring is 12v to the rocker switch on the side, which then goes to all four pushbuttons. The bottom button goes directly to the white/yellow wire for s1. Then I have three diodes coming off the left button. One for the motor relay, one for s2, and one for s3. Next I have two diodes coming off the up button, and two diodes coming off the right button. One diode from the up button goes to the motor relay, and the other diode from the up button goes to the lt blue wire for s3. then one diode from the right button goes to the motor relay, and the other diode goes to the lt green wire for s2. My float function consists of holding my thumb on the bottom button. These pushbuttons are a dime a dozen at any car stereo shop that installs car alarms. I just broke the left button, so I need to open it up and solder in a new one. There is more than enough room inside for the wiring. I am thinking about using an old tv remote for my next one. I'll just flip it over and put my buttons on the back side.

    P82A0475.jpg

    P82A0476.jpg

    P82A0477.jpg

    P82A0473.jpg

    P82A0474.jpg
     
  10. MarkEagleUSA

    MarkEagleUSA Senior Member
    Messages: 321

    I'm not an electronics expert by any means but I think there's a problem with your diode placement and orientation. When LEFT is selected no power can get to S2 and S3 the way you have it drawn.
     
  11. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    S2 and S3 are supposed to both activate together when you want left angle. That's no error.
     
  12. MarkEagleUSA

    MarkEagleUSA Senior Member
    Messages: 321

    I still think you have both diodes drawn incorrectly.

    (+) --->|--- (-)

    They way you have them drawn no power can get to S2 or S3.
     
  13. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    According to electron theory current flows through a diode against the arrow and is blocked with the arrow. As I was taught in my electronics background the arrow points in the direction of what they call "hole flow". Try it with a diode and test light.
     
  14. MarkEagleUSA

    MarkEagleUSA Senior Member
    Messages: 321

    According to this image you have the diodes reversed. The Anode is the large end of the diode and the Cathode is the point. Positive voltage only flows from Anode to Cathode (forward bias). Negative voltage can flow in either direction.

    diode.jpg
     
  15. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    OK I concede... My polarity is backwards, was thinking in conventional theory but applying the rules of electron theory. :dizzy: Thanks for persisting.

    If you are talking in electron theory, electrons flow from + to - in which case "electrons" flow against the arrow, that is up from the ground, through the diode and back to battery positive through the switches and wiring. In the old conventional theory, which may be easier to understand for most people, "current" flows (not electrons) from positive to negative in the direction of the arrow.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2015
  16. MarkEagleUSA

    MarkEagleUSA Senior Member
    Messages: 321

    No problem... just want to make sure anyone trying this has the right info available. :drinkup:
     
  17. weevensteven

    weevensteven Junior Member
    Messages: 8

    I have all the diodes oriented in the same direction, so that the voltage moves from the switches to the corresponding solenoids. I tried the setup using the dpdt toggle switches, but I opted for the pushbutton type because they can be mounted in a way that is easier to use(diamond pattern).
     
  18. navyman

    navyman Member
    Messages: 66

    There is no doubt your method works , I am just wondering why all the diodes? don't you only need for s2 and s3?
     
  19. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    The reason for the diodes is to prevent S2 and S3 from coming on together any time one or the other is activated. Both must come on to angle left but S3 comes on alone for up and S2 comes on alone for right angle.
     
  20. navyman

    navyman Member
    Messages: 66

    Yes I understand the two for S2and S3 but he has several others with his set up