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Need Axle seals, hard job?

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by ChevKid03, Sep 24, 2008.

  1. ChevKid03

    ChevKid03 Senior Member
    Messages: 505

    I was doing brakes all around today on my 03 2500HD 6.0 with 4.10's and noticed that on the drivers side it was awfully wet with oil. It ended up being rear end fluid. I guess that would explain that when I changed my rear end fluid last week it was a little low.... Anyway, I am going to try to do the seals myself next week and while I am at it, probably bearings too since I'm in there. Is it a hard job? I pretty mechanically inclined as I did the knock sensor fiasco already so I'm hoping this isn't going to be too much of a big deal. Any help would be appreciated... Thanks! :drinkup:
     
  2. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    It's not a tough job if you know what your doing. Your going to need a special 6 prong socket to remove, as well as PROPERLY re-torque the wheel bearing nuts during re assembly. And I highly recommend using nothing but a GM seal.

    The biggest trick is to be sure and remove BOTH HALVES of the original seal. The wheel seals on these trucks are rather unique as it's a two piece seal. Half of it is pressed into the wheel hub and is easily seen. But the other half remains on the spindle tube so you have to be sure to remove it before re-installing the wheel hub with the new seal (which will have both sections of the new seal together) or else you'll end up with a new seal and HALF of an old seal still on the spindle.


    Here's a thread from a while back with additional info. Seal info
     
  3. ChevKid03

    ChevKid03 Senior Member
    Messages: 505

    thanks B&B.... I'll keep my eye out for both halves.
     
  4. red07gsxr

    red07gsxr Senior Member
    from meriden
    Messages: 256

    ive done them before, there not a bad job at all. just takes a little bit of time. your gonna need the special socket. besides that its not a bad job, like they said before just torque everything to spec.
     
  5. ChevKid03

    ChevKid03 Senior Member
    Messages: 505

    Do you have a picture of the special 6-prong socket that you speak of?
     
  6. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Here's a pic of the 6 prong spindle nut socket along with the wheel bearing nut. You can purchase these at most parts stores... some fit the nut indents better than others so a little work with a hand file may be in order on the prongs to get a good fit into the tangs on the axle nut.

    I'll also include a pic of the half of the two piece seal that you'll want to look for and remove from the spindle tube after you remove the wheel hub. Make sure you get it removed before reinstalling the hub with the replacement seal.
     
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2008
  7. kitn1mcc

    kitn1mcc Senior Member
    Messages: 516

    i did mine not a hard job just an FYI the oil for that Rear end is not cheap
     
  8. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    From the dealer? What'd they charge you for the seal...list price?
     
  9. kitn1mcc

    kitn1mcc Senior Member
    Messages: 516

    my freind who does side work who works for a dealer did it i think the part was like 13 bucks and the oil is what cost the most cause i did a complete service to the rear
     
  10. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    $13 is cheap. They list for over $25 each.

    Yes no synthetic oil is inexpensive... and the rears end in these trucks hold a fair amount. You can spend $70 on fluid real quick these days for a simple diff change. :cry:
     
  11. kitn1mcc

    kitn1mcc Senior Member
    Messages: 516

    yeah i am about do to redo the front axle (non synthetic) and trandfer case to
     
  12. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    I'd recommend synthetic for those as well while your in there.
     
  13. kitn1mcc

    kitn1mcc Senior Member
    Messages: 516

    i just used what gm has i got at cost
     
  14. sno commander

    sno commander PlowSite.com Addict
    from ct
    Messages: 1,061

    yea fluid is getting pretty expensive i just changed the diffs on my dodge and the fluid from the dealer was $24 a quart (synthetic)
     
  15. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Next time your at your local NAPA look to see if they carry Sta-Bil's Ford spec sythetic 75W-140 gear oil... $48.69 A QUART. :nod:
     
  16. ChevKid03

    ChevKid03 Senior Member
    Messages: 505

    B&B... would you recommend ABSOLUTELY doing the axle bearing at the same time or just the seal? The reason I ask is because I see the bearing is close to $85 on top of the $23 for the seal and then the new gasket and fluid.... your input is greatly appreciated.
     
  17. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Not unless you discover it actually needs them after tear down...and they seldom ever do.

    It's usually only fluid contamination, or low fluid level that wipes out the rear wheel bearings on these trucks.
     
  18. ChevKid03

    ChevKid03 Senior Member
    Messages: 505

    Ok thanks... I'll check em out.
     
  19. ChevKid03

    ChevKid03 Senior Member
    Messages: 505

    Ok, in the middle of replacing axle seals. How do you get the rear wheel hub assembly off once the axle is out? I have undone the 4 24mm nuts on the back and am a little confused now. Please HELP!
     
  20. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    You removed the 4 nuts on the backside? Thats not necessary as that only holds the backing plate and caliper mounting bracket on. I belive your thinging that this setup is like a sealed unit bearing assemply (like the front for example)..which it is not. You have to remove the snap ring, lock key and locking nuts from INSIDE the center of the hub...which is what the large 6 prong socket is for. Let me see if I can find some pix or a description somewhere online...it'll save me a ton of typing. :D