1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

My new custom 810PP control

Discussion in 'Blizzard Plows Discussion' started by ThisIsMe, Nov 9, 2006.

  1. ThisIsMe

    ThisIsMe Senior Member
    from Mass
    Messages: 745

    I hate the standard 810PP control and have heard bad things about the optional control. What is a "plower" to do?

    See if you can figure out the new control from the picture below. I love it!!!


    [​IMG]

    IMG_0785.JPG
     
  2. ThisIsMe

    ThisIsMe Senior Member
    from Mass
    Messages: 745

    Figure it out?

    Well the two switches on the top of the sill mimic the two switches on the side of the standard controller. The switch furthest away has an LED on it to tell me when the plow is active as in the same way on the controller.

    Now for the rest of the controls. You are looking at them. The mirror controls now mimic the joystick and the rear window controls work the wings. Only when the plow switch is on. Of course they bypass the rear window controls and the mirror adjustment when the plow is active. I figure they were not in that much demand when plowing. If you need to adjust, just simply turn the plow off using the switch. For example : Plow switch on (LED on) the rear window/mirror controls work the plow. Plow switch off (LED off) the rear window/mirror controls work as normal in the truck.

    Plus they are on the left side. And no need to have to deal with removing or the bulk of the Blizzard shoebox control when the plow is off.

    The only thing I might try to improve is to find a small plastic joystick control to mount in the center spot of the mirror control. Thought about milling one, but will keep an eye out for a scrap one. Either way I am more then happy with the set up now.

    Chris
     
  3. Mad Mulcher

    Mad Mulcher Member
    Messages: 38

    Drool............................
     
  4. Jon Geer

    Jon Geer Member
    Messages: 834

    Chris,

    Awesome setup !!!!xysport I would see if you could drill and tap the adjuster, and try putting a modified switch extender for your joy. If you epoxy a small bolt that you cut the head off in the end of the switch extender, drill and tap the adjuster, I think you would have a whip ass setup. One more thing? Did you use any relays or diodes?

    Just my 2 pennies.

    Jon
     
  5. ThisIsMe

    ThisIsMe Senior Member
    from Mass
    Messages: 745

    I think you are referring to the mirror "adjuster". I am thinking of doing something like that. I have not seen the back side if the paddle control (or whatever you call the thing to adjust the mirrors), so I am not sure what it will support (i.e. How strong it is). I am going to keep an eye out for something, even could go as far as machining a whole new piece to replace what is there. I am in no rush though, and whatever it ends up being it will look like Dodge made it. Part of the challange.

    Relays or transistors I think you mean. There are power transistors but the bulk is done by 2 4PDT relays, that way I did not have to do that much math. :)
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2006
  6. Jon Geer

    Jon Geer Member
    Messages: 834

    Awesome work !!!!!!!!prsport
     
  7. ThisIsMe

    ThisIsMe Senior Member
    from Mass
    Messages: 745

    Thanks for the complments.
     
  8. bterry

    bterry Senior Member
    Messages: 183

    That's alot of work. Nice job.

    Keep the switches dry, and watch for wire chaffing in the door (advise second hand from the Blizzard Wizard).
     
  9. ThisIsMe

    ThisIsMe Senior Member
    from Mass
    Messages: 745

    Not many cables running through the door. Finding the connector for the door in inside the truck was the biggest mystery/ problem of the install it seems.

    Chris
     
  10. Jon Geer

    Jon Geer Member
    Messages: 834

    Chris,

    Can you post more pics of the install or of the after? I want to do the same to one of my subs truck. Thanks.

    Jon aka (The one and only ORIGINAL) BLIZZARD WIZARD
     
  11. bterry

    bterry Senior Member
    Messages: 183

    Please accept my sincerest appology Mr. Geer, I was mistaken - and won't do it again. Jerre was the person that I had talked with about this type of controller. Sorry.
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2006
  12. ThisIsMe

    ThisIsMe Senior Member
    from Mass
    Messages: 745

    Jon,
    Sorry I am not good at the pic taking thing and that is all I have. I might tear it apart to cleanup / improve. I will try to get more then. :)

    Chris
     
  13. Jerre Heyer

    Jerre Heyer Senior Member
    Messages: 948

    Chris, Great Job,

    I used the mirror control for the first couple I did and found out that the Meyer Slick Stick made a more user friendly joystick control. I put the switches that you put on the top of the panel along the side of the removable panel so the whole thing could be swapped out in the summer if desired and to keep the snow / water from getting into them when opening the window to pass the coffee / donuts from truck to truck.


    Keep up the good work, Jerre
     
  14. Jon Geer

    Jon Geer Member
    Messages: 834

    We use the Slick Stick in all of our trucks. I use 2 for a vee and one for straight plow or Blizzard. Take a look, nothing fancy, just functionality.

    Jon

    Controller-1.JPG
     
  15. Kason & Riley

    Kason & Riley Senior Member
    Messages: 122

    Slick Stick


    Jerre do you have a slick stick for sale for a 810 & 760 LT?


    Thanks,
    Steve
     
  16. Jerre Heyer

    Jerre Heyer Senior Member
    Messages: 948

    Jason, we make them up as customers need them. Mount them in the door panel's so I have the customer get a replacement panel for there truck, match it up and then send it to us. We can mod your controller or rewire for a new one.

    Jerre
     
  17. ThisIsMe

    ThisIsMe Senior Member
    from Mass
    Messages: 745

    Jerre Thanks for the help on this, you saved me some time. Either way I found some 5amp 4PDTs to make it, so I had plenty of headroom.

    That Meyer Stick Idea sounds cool as heck. Are you using the whole control, or modifying it?

    True on keeping those two switches dry. I heat shrinked each spade connector and then used a larger piece of heatshrink to encase the whole switch and connectors. I think when I am 100% I might put a little silicone to seal them in. I know how much water can get in that area, and I am one that always has to have he window cracked.


    Chris
     
  18. ThisIsMe

    ThisIsMe Senior Member
    from Mass
    Messages: 745

    Jon,
    Are you making that box? Sure does look easy enough to use without looking.

    Chris
     
  19. Jerre Heyer

    Jerre Heyer Senior Member
    Messages: 948

    Chris, I used the stick as it comes and added a diode to the one leg. When you get one of the switches you'll see why. As for water in them it doesn't take much to mess them up that's why I put them on the side.

    Jerre
     
  20. Jon Geer

    Jon Geer Member
    Messages: 834

    Chris, I do make my own control boxes. They are very user friendly. Just a few minutes and you too can be a pro. They are what I have been using for 17 years. Thanks. Jon:dizzy: