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My Meyers = Nightmare

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by misanthrope, Dec 26, 2003.

  1. I searched the site but didn't find any info on this.

    For the love of GOD both of my pivot pins are shot on my ST 90. One is snapped and seized and the other seized. What step's should i take in removing them. I know i will need a torch to heat'em up but how do i drive'em out? Oh and what kind of torch, i don't think my mapp gas handheld will work . :realmad:
  2. Heron Cove PM

    Heron Cove PM Senior Member
    Messages: 202

    I'm guessing it's steel. If so mine were so bad that I had to cut out the pin boxes and weld in new ones.

    [/QUOTE][/B]...Oh and what kind of torch, i don't think my map gas handheld will work . :realmad: [/B][/QUOTE]

    No, Map gas out of a small plumber's torch is only good for melting solder and ice. You will need an acetylene / O2 torch.

    Good Luck.
  3. Mdirrigation

    Mdirrigation Senior Member
    Messages: 408

    Just fixed the same problem. I drilled out the center of the pin with a brand new 1/4 in bit . then I took a cutting torch and carefully burned out about 80 per cent of the pin , then I drove out the remainder with a punch. Prior to putting back together I added grease fittings to both sides . it took about 1 hour
  4. jimsmowin

    jimsmowin Senior Member
    Messages: 130

    once their out remove every year coat with never seize or grease
  5. Did you remove the springs from the blade? What would be the easiest way? This looks to be fun for someone who is not use to torches and such.
  6. PLOWMAN45

    PLOWMAN45 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,815

    ty god i have grease fitting on my meyers plow
  7. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617


    Looks like a flame wrench is in order. If you can get one or find a buddy that has one heat the pins up till their red hot. That should burn the oxidation (rust) out. Then try to drive it out with an old grade 8 bolt / punch near the same size and a big hammer. Heat it till it just about to melt and back off, let it cool 15 sec or so. Be careful not to weld the pin in with any slag
    I have a Map Gas Torch with a medical oxygen tank and regulator. There just is not enough volume of heat there to do the job. You need the big dog torch. All else fails call the local plow shop and get a price on the job.
  8. JMR

    JMR Senior Member
    Messages: 567

    Like everyone else is saying. LOTS of HEAT. A BIG HAMMER. If you have access try an air hammer. Also try not only moving the pins out. but hammer them in. The key is to get the #$%&? seized things moving. Once they are moving, hammering them out is easier. Sometimes I just keep working them in & out, This is were the air hammer makes the job much easier. Once they are moving you are home free. Also try adding a little candle wax once they are moving. Good Luck. Nothing is impossible, somethings just take longer.
  9. Heron Cove PM

    Heron Cove PM Senior Member
    Messages: 202

    YES, take the whole thing apart. Get as much of that stuff out of your way. Springs, A-frame...removing it all will make your life a little easier.
  10. Robhollar

    Robhollar Senior Member
    Messages: 766

    I just bought a very used meyer plow and I just finished up with this same repair. Like its been said lots of heat and a really big hammer and chisel or an air hammer. It only took 45 mins to replace one broken pin and the other pin wasnt too far behind the other one. When i do my after season mantance i will pull the pins out and drill a couple of zerk fitting into the sleves, and have groves cut into the pins. An old saying that has alway stuck with me is : Oil or grease is cheeper the metal.

    As for your delmina i would just take it to a local matal shop and have them to get your pins out for you. The broken pin on the plow itself prob isnt too hard to get out since you have room to get at it. But the one on the A frame will prob the tough one to get at. What i did was drill and tap the old pin and i used a 7/16 bolt and some washers and alot of heat to get it out, like i said it wasnt as bad as i thought to get it out.
  11. Bolts Indus.

    Bolts Indus. PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,176

    What I do is anytime I'm going to do any work on rusted parts I will start 3 days ahead and soak with WD40 or other penetrating fluid every four hours for 3 days. Take the nights off. This method has got me out of a lot of trouble and broken parts. Most people are in a rush and don't give the fluid time to do it's work.

    CARDOCTOR PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,304

    just replaced my pins
    lots of heat ,try to get them cherry red
    and use an air hammer
    on one of the pins
    i ended useing a c-clamp ball joint press
    at a 1/4 inch at a time

    they broke on thesecond stop on my route
    thank god for a back up truck
  13. Thanks for all the info guys, I'm hoping to bang'em out this week.
  14. ratlover

    ratlover PlowSite.com Addict
    from IL
    Messages: 1,325

    A heating cooling cycle should or may break up the corrosion bond and the presoaking with wd is a good idea so you can pound em out. I like to heat the whole deal and then blast it with wd or the like. This will cause it to shrink fast and ussually the hot cold does a good job of breaking the bond. Remember that you are shooting a flamable liquid at something thats hot enough to ignight it. More than likely it will catch fire but its not like spraying hairspray on a lighter. And you probably shouldnt breath the fumes......and it may want to splatter and spit. No biggy, just heat the whole mess red hot and squirt at the pin(or bolt or what ever) and soak it down real good

    One thing about heat. Heat causes things to expand and cold makes things contract. If you heat just the pin inside the sleve the pin will expand and the sleve wont or as much if you keep the heat off it.
  15. Turfmower

    Turfmower Senior Member
    Messages: 376

    I fix one of my Meyer plow. I cut them off the welded on new parts. But before you weld on the new parts on drill a hole and put in some grease fittings.
    I fix the center bolt where the sector pivots on the a-frame by drilling out the hole mine was egg shaped cutting some black pipe for spacers and weld them in then put a new bolt.