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MVP plus - not responding properly

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by scottL, Feb 14, 2016.

  1. scottL

    scottL PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,603

    MVP plus. It has been working great all season. Today hooked it up all was fine. Later went to truck and plow would turn on but didn't move at first. A few extra hits of the button and it would respond. Wings retract slowly, no real force in retracting the wings either.

    I took the remote apart and cleaned the contacts, solenoid clicks immediately. Not sure I hear the pump - little hard to hear it. The plow eventually does move just not on the first button push.

    Thoughts????
     
  2. iceyman

    iceyman 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,546

    Fluid level?
     
  3. scottL

    scottL PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,603

    Plow is kept in garage and not frozen.
    Fluid level good. At base of filler like normal.
    Removing Vent cap there was pressure you could hear.

    it's a new truck. Plow was installed with new modules, wiring from good shop. The only thing original from old truck was controller and plow.

    Since it responds ( but not reliably nor at first button push ), what are the symptoms of a relay or pump going bad?
     
  4. seville009

    seville009 Senior Member
    from CNY
    Messages: 740

    Did you have the below zero temps today? Was -25 here and my MVP was moving slower than normal because of that. I'd unplug and replug the controller and grill plugs and make sure they're clean and tight since that might be a simple solution.
     
  5. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    You need to shut off your engine so you can hear what the solenoid and motor are doing. With the engine off and the ignition off, stand outside the truck and hit buttons on the controller so you can hear clicking of the solenoid and humming of the pump motor. If the solenoid clicks but the motor does not spin reliably then you need to put a test light on the motor lugs (left side of the plow under the black plastic shroud). If the relay clicks but you get not power at the motor then replace the solenoid. If the relay clicks and you get power at the motor but no spin then the motor is probably gone. If the solenoid does not click at all then you have controller or plow module problems.

    Since it's an MVP+ it shouldn't be a communication problem or you would be having a flashing red light on the controller.

    Symptoms of relay or pump going bad? Bad relay is, as described above, relay clicks but no power sent to motor. A bad pump usually manifests itself as either a motor that won't spin because broken pump gear teeth are jamming rotation. Alternatively if the pump is bad they often freewheel without making any pressure, but that's not something that comes and goes. The pump could be so badly worn that it's just not making pressure but that again is not something that comes and goes. You could have a bad motor, the brushes could be worn to the point where they are not making a good connection to the armature. That would be intermittent. Another possibility could be the plow module but your description of the problem.

    So do the standing outside and listening thing and then give us a better description of the sounds. Then we can help your better.
     
  6. kimber750

    kimber750 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,691

    Engine off, ignition on. Plow should not work with ignition off.
     
  7. seville009

    seville009 Senior Member
    from CNY
    Messages: 740


    I think he means turn the key to accessory mode so the plow controller will run without the noise of the engine.
     
  8. kimber750

    kimber750 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,691

    Even in accessory, depending on what fuse is tapped, the plow may not work. Accessory turns a very limitied number of circuits.
     
  9. seville009

    seville009 Senior Member
    from CNY
    Messages: 740

    I know my plow works in only accessory mode - on an F350.
     
  10. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    Anything that is powered when the engine is running will work with the ignition in the run position and engine off. Just turn the ignition on but don't crank the engine. If it's a diesel the glow plugs will cycle and the electric fuel pump too. This is not a problem. Most ign switches have four positions. 1 off. 2 accessory 3 run (ignition on) and 4 crank. Some circuits are active only in run / ign position but anything that is on in acc will also be on in run / ign. If your F350 is only powered the plow in acc then it wouldn't be much good for plowing snow withe the engine running! Maybe that trucks plow is wired into the fuel pump relay because the electric fuel pump only runs for 30 seconds if the engine is not started. But then it wouldn't run in acc at all so that can't be.
    Fuel pump is NOT a good place to connect the ignition wire. At my shop we NEVER connect to fuel pump, ABS, ECU or any other safety associated circuit.
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2016
  11. seville009

    seville009 Senior Member
    from CNY
    Messages: 740

    Didn't mean that it worked only while in accessory mode, but that if it was turned to accessory mode that the plow would work.
     
  12. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    It depends on where the plows ign wire is connected. I said turn to ignition to keep it simple. The plow will work in ignition no matter how it's hooked up but may not work in acc if it's connected to fuel pump or ignition coil feed.
     
  13. scottL

    scottL PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,603

    :mechanic:
    Thank you for your replies!

    After starring and flipping the key a while I was puzzled by the random actions. So, I went after what I thought would be the most worn part, the relay.

    Luckily I had a spare. Flipped it out and the plow moved like I had not seen it move in years!

    Kind of weird for the relay to go weak rather than just fail - maybe that's a good design but how about an indicator like a thanksgiving turkey thermometer. :eek:
     
  14. kimber750

    kimber750 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,691

    Not at all, just contact points inside. Every time you hit the button it arcs causing burns in the contacts. At some point not as much power can get through. Always a good idea to have a spare.
     
  15. Western1

    Western1 Senior Member
    from MI.
    Messages: 679

    I hope you used a factory western one and not a after market one! Good Luck!!!
     
  16. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    There are two different relays sold by western and they both look the same. On a two plug system you want the one marked "int" on the label standing for intermittent operation. The "cont" continuous version is for three plug units where the solenoid is much closer to the battery, under the hood, where the voltage remains high enough to keep it engaged under load. Using a "cont" could result in solenoid chatter on your unit.
    As for a turkey temperature probe.... That's what a test light or voltmeter is for. And they, like the turkey probe, are not included in the turkey, or the plow. You use them when you need them.