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Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by Mr.Freezzz, Jan 18, 2011.

  1. Mr.Freezzz

    Mr.Freezzz Member
    from Utah
    Messages: 81

    I know there is alot of forums related to problems like this but none that solve the problem.
    This truck has a new 8600 speed wind blizzard plow and the truck is a gas f250. The problem is I Iose all power to the plow and truck totally, only sometimes, when running the plow. I noticed running the plow with lights off helps and the engine rev ed up with more rpms helps. I think I need a bigger battery or a second battery. What have some of you all done for this problem? I don't have a issue on my duramax trucks I think do to the dual batteries on the truck? Or maybe the alternator is not producing enough power to keep up? All wiring is lock tight and grounds are clean tight and secure.:confused:
  2. captadamnj

    captadamnj Senior Member
    Messages: 148

    First checks would be current alternator is putting out ok, wiring connections are not dirty and battery load tests ok. Assuming that checks out and this has been a constant problem (not something that is just now occurring which would indicate one of the above or another electrical problem), look in to an alternator rated for higher output at lower RPM's. Mine puts out 180 amps at idle and was a direct replacement of my existing alternator (GMC 2500). Do a search online for high output alternators and you'll find lots of options.
  3. 04superduty

    04superduty PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,354

    i second the alternator going out, or possibly a loose connection.
  4. hydro_37

    hydro_37 PlowSite Veteran
    from iowa
    Messages: 3,790

    clean ALL battery and plow connections....test battery and alt
    procede from there
  5. bln

    bln Senior Member
    Messages: 767

    I have an 04 f350 superduty diesel. I have the same problem. I replaced the altnator and both batteries. The problem is they put a 110 amp alt. In it. When plowing I have to choose which 1 of 3 things I want running while in a lot plowing, heat, lights, or the radio. I choose the radio, nothing like cold air and loud music to keep u awake while plowing. On ebay there is a 220 amp alt. For $240. When I get paid that is what I'm getting
  6. captadamnj

    captadamnj Senior Member
    Messages: 148

    Top end amperage is not the important rating on alternators for our application. You want to compare output at idle since most of our electrical draw occurs at low RPM's.
  7. terryrwood

    terryrwood Junior Member
    from Atlanta
    Messages: 4

    Last edited: Jan 18, 2011

    SMLCAT Member
    Messages: 85

    Last edited: Jan 18, 2011
  9. Mark Witcher

    Mark Witcher Senior Member
    Messages: 604

    I have 3 trucks with 100 amp alt and single batteries and dont have any trouble. Blizzard 810, and Meyer plows on them.
  10. Plow Nuts

    Plow Nuts Senior Member
    Messages: 214

    you either have a short or loose connection. If you have checked all of your connections and they are tight and clean, then you need to have the pump motor on your plow tested for amperage load--meaning the electric motor which drives the hydraulics on your plow can have an internal short and still work, but suck up literally hundreds of amps. We have one that would suck up 150-210 amps each time the motor cycled on and it would almost stall the truck. Have the electric motor for your plow tested if you are 100% positive that all your connections are clean, tight, your alternater is good, and your battery is good. I am an ASE certified master tech and have been for 20 years. I spend my days looking at/fixing/offering tech help on cars and trucks for my day job.
  11. swtiih

    swtiih PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,179

    What were the conditions before the problem started. Maybe water got inside a connection. moisture in the pump motor. I would agree short in motor, connection problem, bad ground etc. Have battery and alternator tested. Usually the chilton's manual give specific testing procedures that you can perform on battery and alternator before pulling them.
    Just have to keep eliminating things until you find the problem.
  12. cfpd0707

    cfpd0707 Member
    Messages: 48

    I went to a local auto electric shop and they set me up with a csd alt. They said it puts out higher amps at lower rpms. I have a 93 chevy 2500 that came stock with a 105 amp alt. and that was its peak amps. now I have 128 amps at an idle. This csd alt was also cheaper than a new 125 peak amp alternator!
  13. Mr.Freezzz

    Mr.Freezzz Member
    from Utah
    Messages: 81

    Well the plow is brand new this season. So its got me a little ticked off. It has done it since the first day plowing with it. It will kill the truck and than not start back up. The only thing that I find to help is turn off plow lights and radio, or run high rpms. I set up dual batteries yesterday and it seems to run fine, but its not under the stress of plowing yet. I'm going down to Napa to get there high idle amp alt. today also. I have ran threw the entire plow and everything is tight and secure.??:realmad:
  14. cfpd0707

    cfpd0707 Member
    Messages: 48

    You don't want an alternator that's puts out its peak amps at a high rpm. Most of the time plowing, you are at a low rpm. Get one that puts out a lot of amps at a lower rpm. The dual batteries should help out a lot to though! Good luck
  15. forbidden

    forbidden Senior Member
    Messages: 392

    Adding a second battery is also going to compound the problem for you. If the alternator can't supply enough current to one battery, the vehicle and the plow, how on earth is it going to charge a second battery? I would also take a serious look at the plow as having a fault in it. I would also look at every single ground in your electrical system on the plow and the charging circuit. I would also do what is called a BIG 3 electrical upgrade under the hood. ADD do not replace wiring as you want to increase capacity. Add a new ground from block to frame. Add a new ground battery to frame. Add a new FUSED power line alternator to battery. Ideally make these 3 lines as large as you can. A 0 gauge line is ideal as it will handle almost everything you want to throw at it. Many car audio specialty shops have this equipment in stock as well as the connectors for it.

    Ohio Generator makes a top notch alternator for many vehicles on the market today. I would also give them a shot at things. They do not rewind a alternator putting more windings into the same size case (thus causing heat issues). They are built from the ground up and handle abuse like no other.
  16. ProSeasons

    ProSeasons Senior Member
    Messages: 624

  17. forbidden

    forbidden Senior Member
    Messages: 392

    Steve Meade is indeed a car audio person. I just retired out of a 25 year stint in car audio ranging from installer to business owner. I know I have a Ohio Generator alternator for a Ford 7.3L around somewhere, new in box.
  18. Mr.Freezzz

    Mr.Freezzz Member
    from Utah
    Messages: 81

    Thanks Rob, will it bolt on to a 1992 ford 5.8L gas though? I'd be interested in taking it off your hands if you'd sell it.Thumbs Up
  19. dsmer1991

    dsmer1991 Junior Member
    from chicago
    Messages: 3

    i got a 93 bronco with a 5.8 and i took an alternator off an e350 van. bolted right up and added about 65 amps over what i had. 165 amps now compared to a stock 95 amp. cost me 85 bucks at auto zone...also look up 3g upgrade on Fullsizebronco.com to show you step by step how to fix the problem. bigger wire and a fuse is all you need. i am running a pull plow and a 8foot western. no dimming of the lights on mine.