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Modifying a Plow to fit on a Bobcat

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by sokoservices, Aug 5, 2013.

  1. sokoservices

    sokoservices Junior Member
    Messages: 15

    Can someone please help me. I have a s175 bobcat and just picked up a 8.5' diamond plow, A frame and cylinders. Anyone have any plans on how to attach it to the bobcat? I also bought a weld plate for the front bobtach's. I plan on welding on this plate to hold the plow. Just wondering what others have done? Do you keep the mounting holes like it would have mounted on the truck so it can go up and down? Do you cut them off and weld a flat plate aross the A frame so then you can weld that to the weld plate? How do you hook up the hydraulics? On the original truck pump, didnt one hydraulic float while the other pushed? How is this done on the bobcat? Do i need to upgrade the little hoses on the the cylinders? How do you conver from the little hoses up to the big flat faced connector.

    Please send me some close up pictures of what you all have done.

    Thanks
    ERIK
     
  2. Big Dog D

    Big Dog D PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,134

    Here is a setup I made last year.

    Skid Plow 2.JPG
     
  3. sokoservices

    sokoservices Junior Member
    Messages: 15

    how did you do the hydraulics? Does it work easily?
     
  4. Big Dog D

    Big Dog D PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,134

    Yes it works fine. Take the lines and run them to the two remotes on the arms of the machine.
     
  5. RLM

    RLM PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,270

    I would try to give it some occsulation, side to side float. Without this one side has more presure than the other. We have some of the original Bobcat brand plows they are ridgid mount like you are describing building as they aged (wore) they are easier to use.
     
  6. Big Dog D

    Big Dog D PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,134

    The Fishers don't need any kind of oscillation plate they have enough play in them already. We have been using them on skid steers for many years on a variety of sloped areas and haven't had any issues with it. If you think about it there really is no difference in setting up any normal plow for skid mount vs. a setup for a p/u truck.
     
  7. sokoservices

    sokoservices Junior Member
    Messages: 15

    What are you refering to when saying oscilation?
     
  8. sokoservices

    sokoservices Junior Member
    Messages: 15

    Here is the plow i picked up. The a frame has seen a lot of welding in its days. I was thinking of cutting of the parts that the pins go through off and welding a 1/2" plate between the two arms of the A frame and then welding the entire thing onto the weld plate. I would then make an arm that would hold up the chains.

    Second thought would be to keep the pin's like on a truck and just weld two plates sticking perpendiucular off the plate with two 3/4" holes in it so I would keep the pins. Just not sure how strong this would be. Well if i was concerned how stong the plates sticking off the front of the weld plate were, i could weld a piece of stock across the two and tie it also into the weld plate. I think i might do the second option, this way i could weld a 2" recevier to the plate also and use it for moving my trailers around. In the 2" receiver i would alos use this to make me an arm to hold up the chains. Man options, options, options....

    Thoughts?

    Thanks
    ERIK

    20130805_161810s.jpg

    20130805_161817s.jpg

    20130805_161824s.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2013
  9. RLM

    RLM PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,270

    There are several differt ways to get the occilation. Look at the plows built by Snow wolf, Protec, Bobcats's HD series, the list goes on. The reason is a bobcat has no suspension or movement to the axles (like a wheel loader). It puts more presure on the inner part of the cutting edge (when blade is angled), while the outer edge could be 1-2" off the ground. This is the same principal that cause truck cutting edges to "smile", only a truck has the suspension to absorb some of the presure & steers differently. If the blade is to tight on the bobcat in makes everything more difficult because it lightens up traction on one of the front tires/causes more drag on that sides.
    We almost gave up plowing with skids due to a combination of this, an 8' blade on to small of a machine (753) & traction issues. We have fixed all these issues over the years, our skidsteer we use now will push snow with a 10' pusher till snow is pouring over the top on flat lots with a ridgid mounted pusher, it the pusher occilated like bobcat brands new ones do who know what it would be capable of. With a well worn (holes pins oblonged) 8' angle blade it is unstoppable. We now utilize a larger machine (873), snow tires (make the biggest difference) & plow is worn.
     
  10. sokoservices

    sokoservices Junior Member
    Messages: 15

    Still dont get the oscillation, are you saying the plow wont contour the ground and I will need to do something to make it countour the ground? So I guess I can oversize the holes that the pins go into on the weld plate pieces that i will be welding on. This will allow for a little slop and the blade will rockback and forth. I did find the cutting edge is severly warn and it has eaten into the trip edge. Also they must of hit soemthing hard since the cylinder pins are bend very badly. All fixable i suppose.
     
  11. sokoservices

    sokoservices Junior Member
    Messages: 15

    Are you saying my bobcat wont push the snow with the 8'-6" blade? I have the solid rubber tires on her. I wish i got one with tracks.
     
  12. Big Dog D

    Big Dog D PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,134

    I wouldn't worry about it.
     
  13. RLM

    RLM PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,270

    I'm just sharing my experiences ;)
     
  14. fireside

    fireside Senior Member
    Messages: 661

    I have built several skidsteer/tractor plows. This is what I have learned after using them for 12 years. You don't need side to side motion. it will plow and scrape no diffirent than a 8' plow on a truck will. The most important thing with a skidsteer is let the plow float the more down pressure you use takes away traction. Just like using a box on small skidsteers once the box is almost full pick it up a little and it will push awesome.

    As for hydros they are no problem but you do need a crossover valve to prevent plow damage.



    If you search this site I posted pictures of my "john derre 110 plow". I don't know how to post the link and it will not let me post the pictures again.
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2013
  15. sokoservices

    sokoservices Junior Member
    Messages: 15

    Any chance you have the Graigner part number for the crossover or chushion valve?

    Thanks
    ERIK
     
  16. fireside

    fireside Senior Member
    Messages: 661

    I will look for the part number. Northern tool also sells the valve.
     
  17. Big Dog D

    Big Dog D PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,134



    Me too! ;)
     
  18. fireside

    fireside Senior Member
    Messages: 661

    The blade you have will work. You will just need to use caution using down pressure as they will rip up lose pavement really easy do to cutting edge attack angle. It also makes a very simply made box plow with steel trip edge design. two 1/4 plates and some rubber you got a pusher box that angles too.
     
  19. sokoservices

    sokoservices Junior Member
    Messages: 15

    Looks like its a 4HL35
     
  20. sokoservices

    sokoservices Junior Member
    Messages: 15

    From the front on picture above, the cutting edge is very warn down to the trip edge. Where do i get the repalcement steel cutting wear bar?