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MM1 vs MM2

Discussion in 'Fisher Engineering Discussion' started by unhcp, Jan 20, 2010.

  1. unhcp

    unhcp PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,243

    What is the real difference of the MM1 vs the MM2?
     
  2. Flipper

    Flipper PlowSite.com Addict
    from CT
    Messages: 1,180

    Both hook into the same truck mount.

    MM1 used a frame made mostly out of angle iron, most had SEHP pumps, where the lift cylinder and pump are in one assembly. Some used belt drive hydraulics so all you would see was the lift cylinder on the lift frame. Later ones and the EZV had the Insta Act pumps mounted on the right side of the lift frame. They also had a jack leg and pins that each had to be manually engaged.

    The MM2 went to a tubular lift frame. Insta Act pumps though a SEHP will fit. Newer ones have the intensifire lights again these can be adapted to older plows. The MM2 also corresponded with the change from relay wiring to the Isolation setup. This is seen by three plugs on the plow rather then two. The jack and attaching pins are all linked so one lever actuates all. The lift triangle shape was rounded and the lift eye was changed with a cable and spring return being added. The A-frame to blade pivot pin is longer however the a-frame spacing is the same so you can swap blades.

    I am sure I am forgetting something

    All in all they made many "improvements" or changes but kept the mounting system the same so it is very easy to run either one on a truck with a Fisher Mount.
     
  3. Seaway25

    Seaway25 Senior Member
    Messages: 165

    Some of those changes overlap both MM1 and MM2. I have a MM1, but it has the insta-act pump, isolation module, and 3 plug set up.
     
  4. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,031

    I don't think MM's used central hydraulics either. Everything was plowside all along. The main difference is the one lever action on the MM2's. The MM had two mounting pins you had to disconnect, as well as drop the jack stand. Were as the MM2 you can disconnect / connect it with one lever, in one motion.
     
  5. plowinginma

    plowinginma Senior Member
    from MA
    Messages: 326

    some of the original mm's had under hood hydraulics..
     
  6. plowguy43

    plowguy43 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,269

    Yeah my first MM1 had electric hydraulic under hoodbut still used valves snd cables
     
  7. Flipper

    Flipper PlowSite.com Addict
    from CT
    Messages: 1,180

    I installed MM1 with belt driven hydros in 95-96 time frame. Original belt drive system, then they went to a clutch pump with remote resevoir and electric valves (SEHP valve block mounted under hood) Before finally stoping new kit production in 97-98.

    And yes there was a lot of overlap expecially because dealers would clear out old stock unless request was made. For example, might have lots of MM1 frames left but not the peculiar wiring as it was easier to order the more universal isolation setups. My dealer had people requesting the MM2 setups and I was more then happy to talk NOS MM1 setups on mine.
     
  8. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,031

    No kidding. Never knew that.
     
  9. unhcp

    unhcp PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,243

    thanks, I don't mind not having the dual action lever
     
  10. plowguy43

    plowguy43 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,269

    Yeah my first MM1 had an insta act looking pump under hood with hoses running to a valve body just like the old engine mount pumps. It still had the large lever inside the truck that would pull the cables/valves and obviously put the fluid through the grill mounted hydraulic hose connections. It was a neat setup and worked great except for when the connections would freeze at the grill. The lever inside the truck had a little switch in it that everytime you'd move the lever, the switch would trigger the pump.
     
  11. Flipper

    Flipper PlowSite.com Addict
    from CT
    Messages: 1,180

    Some more useless knowledge in my head.

    The first minute mounts were the LD series made for S-10s, Rangers, Toyotas etc. When Fisher came out with the RD/HD series the following season lots of people were hesistant to buy them (around here anyway)

    For a while there was overlap depending on the dealer and vehicle. You could get a conventional mount originally made for a 92-95 F350 fitted to your 97 F350 because the frame and body were unchanged. Fisher even made a wiring harness for the SEHP (small electric joystick) to mount to the conventional frame and run the old style headlight harness with a toggle switch.

    Fisher then started delivering mounts for older trucks (80s Fords, Chevies etc) To totally switch to the Minute Mount and conventional mounts were phased out as models changed.
     
  12. Stik208

    Stik208 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,316

    I noticed in your pic as well as Seway25's your headger leans really far foreward I see some MM1s that do this and some don't. Any reason?
     
  13. Bostonyj7

    Bostonyj7 Senior Member
    Messages: 183

    Hate to hijack, but what would it take, to change the MM1 to the MM2 with the single handle to engage the pins. Always wondered.

    C-
     
  14. plowguy43

    plowguy43 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,269

    They aren't supposed to be that way, but before I cranked up my Tbars I bottomed out while driving to a few driveways last season. It literally bent the "horns" of my undercarriage down a little. Its barely noticeable looking at the horns without the plow on, but when the plow is mounted, its fairly noticeable- although its never caused a problem when plowing.
     
  15. Flipper

    Flipper PlowSite.com Addict
    from CT
    Messages: 1,180

    Boston, you need a new headgear assembly and the related pins and jack. The a-frame will pin in and the pump will mount. The lift triangle will swap but you may want to change to the newer style wth the retrction spring if you desire that.

    I have noticed some MM1 lean frward because the bracing straps have moved a bit on the bolt holes. I used to see this on conventional headgears as well. I loosen all the bolts on the straps and at the bottom of teh headgear. Get it straight or even a little bit opposite lean and tehn tighten everything back up.

    Other times it is the lower mount where it pins to the truck frame that has worn or become loose.