1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

MM1 Head gear return spring project

Discussion in 'Fisher Engineering Discussion' started by BigDave12768, May 4, 2009.

  1. BigDave12768

    BigDave12768 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,446

    Ok So I got a newly aquired MM1 and really like the MM2 return spring on the triangle. So I headed out to Lowes to see if I could figure a way to make one up. I plan on installing it all tomorrow morning. I got the 8 inch spring instead of the 6 like the MM2 has. Seems like a lil tougher spring wouldnt hurt. I got a Ubolt to hold it to A-Frame and them some coated cable with a couple wire rope ties. Then the SS link for up top. So a couple holes to drill and nuts to tighten down and lil praying that it will hold and will pull down the head. All for under $15.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. SuperdutyShane

    SuperdutyShane PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,517

    Wow... Dave... This is absolutely perfect... This is exactly what Im doing and Im going shoot to Lowes in Haverhill and buy these things this weekend hopefully. Great... Thank you very much Dave.
     
  3. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    The fisher kit is about $20. The spring is weighted properly to pull the lift arm down.
     
  4. BigDave12768

    BigDave12768 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,446

    The Fisher Kit is for a MM2 not a MM1 and doesnt include a UBolt or any way to attach it to the Triangle. Lowes sells what looks to be the same 6-1/2 inch retraction spring for $3. I bought the 8-1/2 inch retraction spring. It will last a lil longer. I considered buying the Fisher Kit and making it work some how. But I stopped at Lowes first. And saw How cheaply I go could put it together

    I am also thinking I should buy 2 more Wire rope ties. So I have 2 on each end. Also they have a thimble thing at the spring. May have to think about that part a bit.

    http://www.fisherplows.com/pdf/26157.09_080106.pdf
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2009
  5. SuperdutyShane

    SuperdutyShane PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,517

    Lol... Dave, I just went downstairs with the picture you posted to see what I already had... I opened up the toolbox off my dads Pete and found half the items... then we took a quick drive to the garage and one of the guys that parks there, Dave, had the rest of the things in his headache rack :)... All I need now is a spring.
     
  6. BigDave12768

    BigDave12768 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,446

    Well there at the end of the Nuts and bolts Aisle. The sell the 6-1/2 Spring that Fisher uses. Or you can buy the 8-1/2 Spring for an extra 50 cents. Is your plow a SEHP(2 plug) system? If so it couldnt hurt to spend the extra 50 cents on the bigger spring. The are safe weight rated. I am going back to Lowes in Morning to check to see if i can make up that thimble thing Fisher uses to protect cable
     
  7. SuperdutyShane

    SuperdutyShane PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,517

    Its a 3 plug... Thanks.
     
  8. Flipper

    Flipper PlowSite.com Addict
    from CT
    Messages: 1,180

    As I have stated in other threads I hate them and therefore never install them. I have 5-6 Fisher Kits sitting in my shop. I would have given you one.
     
  9. BigDave12768

    BigDave12768 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,446

    I dont see whats to hate about them. They pull the piston Down
     
  10. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    I like the pulldown spring. Once the ram is pulled down, you can change the angle of the blade while pushing and still have float capability. Also makes it easier to get the plow off the truck.
     
  11. Flipper

    Flipper PlowSite.com Addict
    from CT
    Messages: 1,180

    First of all, with the blade in float you can move the stick left and right all day and it will stay in float.

    The reason I don't like them is that when it goes into float on a level surface you then create a lot of slack in the chain. This has to be taken up at the end of the run and you lose a few seconds say trying to get up over a curb. It may not seem like a big deal but in a flat lot I plow half with the spring on and half with it off and never put it back on. Now, I just don't install them. I would rather just have it in float and know that as soon as I bump it up, I tension the chain. This is also helpful on uneven surfaces and unpaved drives.
     
  12. BigDave12768

    BigDave12768 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,446

    maybe your controller is failing. Or your a bit heavy thumbed. Once my blade hits the ground my thumb is off button and it doesnt go into float mode. I have to hold button down for extra 1-2 seconds for green float lite to come on. Do you have this issue on numerous plows? Or do you just have one? You said you have 4 of these kits. So I am assuming you have more than one.
     
  13. BigDave12768

    BigDave12768 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,446

    Ok shane R&D was in full effect today. I added 2 more 5/16 wire rope ties. And I also added 2 Wire rope thimbles. A bit too much rain today to install it. But as you can see its ready to go. The SS loop link was pricey. It was like $7 But all parts are under $17.

    4 5/16 wire rope ties.
    2 wire rope thimbles
    1 8-1/2 spring
    3 feet covered cable
    1 SS loop link
    1 U bolt

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2009
  14. Flipper

    Flipper PlowSite.com Addict
    from CT
    Messages: 1,180

    Yeah you have to hold it down for it to go into float, that's how its supposed to work. What do you think the spring does? It pulls the triangle all the way down as the cylinder goes into float. It doesn't make the plow drop faster although it may make the cylinder retract faster once the plow hits the ground.

    The purpose of the spring and cable was to pull the cylinder and traingle down to put slack in the chain when removing the plow from the truck. It has no purpose and a negative afftect on the truck when plowing IMO as I have stated. To dismount we do just likt MM1s and put it in float and push the triangle down by hand.

    Either way you will end up with the same issue. You will have the lift cylinder retracted all the way and slack in the chain and at the end of a run it will take a second for that slack to be picked up once you hit raise. All those seconds add up in a plowing run. I tried it and I liked it better without it and since then all my new MM2s have not gotten the spring. All plows otherwise function exactly as Fisher designed them. My drivers and subs all prefer not to have it. Try it both ways, I think you may be surprised.
     
  15. BigDave12768

    BigDave12768 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,446

    I really dont think it I would like it without a return spring. I plow the same parking lot for hours. And this parking lot has curbs that are angled a bit and not all that tall. They are not burms, More like a stone. Plus I loop alot and leave a mess at ends. So when it comes to pushing up I have a healthy amount of snow to push up so I dont slam into the curbs. I guess if I was doing a parking lot with those big concrete curbs I could see you point of view. I guess it like every other arguement on this site. it comes down to personal prefrence and what you are using your equipment for.

    I know there is snow on the islands. But they are not high and have landscaping on them. Just to give you an idea what I mean
    [​IMG]
     
  16. SuperdutyShane

    SuperdutyShane PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,517

    Looking good Dave... It was incredibly cruddy and rainy here today, I know, I took a bike ride, to kind of relieve some stress from my friends death, and I got soaked..
     
  17. BigDave12768

    BigDave12768 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,446

    Yeah it was a terrible day. Sorry about your loss
     
  18. BigDave12768

    BigDave12768 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,446

    I went over and played with my plow today. I hooked up the return spring. It wasnt a complete success. The spring is not strong enough to pull downt he head gear. The spring was rated 13lb safe weight. So I am thinking a lil tougher spring and I should be good to go. I put a good amount tension on spring too. And made pushing down the head alot easier. Usually You gota put some weight into it. Not this time. One handed and easly dropped down. So I am close. I am going to try Fasten-All I think they are called. So I will post update. I also cleaned up one corner a lil bit. Took all that rust off.

    Oh yeah and I cracked open the can of fluid film. I was suprised how well it covered.


    This is a 20 pound Spring. Not sure if this would work
    http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0166827&ucst=t

    Or this one. 40lb rating. This should work. And package has 2 in it. So if it works Shane I will mail you the other one.
    http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=110166834&ucst=t
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2009
  19. BigDave12768

    BigDave12768 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,446

    Ok the Fastenal Spring doesnt look to be strong enough. So I went to Fisher and Bought the Spring kit. Comes with the U bolt for $28... Well I hook it all up and still wont work. I am thinking I am going to have to adjust the drop speed. Just not sure how. I am going to searcht he forum since I have seen many posts about it.

    Found it on another post. Gota turn the quill counter clockwise. Hopefully this will let piston drop easier. Its just real stiff

    http://www.fisherplows.com/pdf/26406_051304.pdf
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2009
  20. Flipper

    Flipper PlowSite.com Addict
    from CT
    Messages: 1,180

    Loosen up the jam nut on top of the cylinder. The packing is probably to tight if you have to put all that weight on it to push it down.