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minimum amperage for control switches?

Discussion in 'Residential Snow Removal' started by djacidjac, Jan 2, 2011.

  1. djacidjac

    djacidjac Junior Member
    Messages: 11

    Hi all,
    I'm upgrading to an E-47 (used, needs rebuilt) and I want to use an old video game controller "d-pad" for up/down, left/right since it's cheap and I have it already.(and I like the way it feels). I know the game controller switches are very low amperage, so does anybody know the actual amperage draw on Meyer control solenoids?

    Beyond the game controller I have, this is my 2nd choice. I'm confident that it would handle switching the solenoids:

    http://www.arcadeshop.de/product_info.php?pidmod=us&products_id=us-452&currency=USD


    Or, does anybody have a cheap Slik Stik for sale?
     
  2. Dr Who

    Dr Who Senior Member
    Messages: 637

    I think that the it will fry the board, but that is just a guess. You can get toggle switches that do not lock (the ones that recenter thereself) one for up/down and one for left/right and mount them in the dash or on a control board, be cheap.

    I know that it will not hurt the pump, but its easy to fry a controler, I fried mine the first time I hooked up the plow so I took the controler from a snoway and made it work my meyer, only issue I can not get resolved is left is up and up is left. Will not work any other way, but its been like that for 2-3 years...
     
  3. mreamer

    mreamer Member
    Messages: 85

    I agree, it would do some damage to the switches on the game pad. Even using some small pilot relays may be a problem because of the inductance of the coil in the relay (could cause an in-rush current). Ideally you would want to drive a transistor first, then a small relay to drive the solenoids. If you want to try a pilot relay, let me know and I can send you a link to a decent one.
     
  4. theplowmeister

    theplowmeister 2000 Club Member
    from MA
    Messages: 2,548

    Just use relays, have the switch run a relay that runs the plow.
     
  5. djacidjac

    djacidjac Junior Member
    Messages: 11

    Last edited: Jan 4, 2011
  6. theplowmeister

    theplowmeister 2000 Club Member
    from MA
    Messages: 2,548

    That wont work

    The diode from R needs to go to M not A (the way it is a will also get energized vea diode when R does)

    you also need a way for the down to stay energized when you take your finger off the switch (float)
     
  7. djacidjac

    djacidjac Junior Member
    Messages: 11

    Ok. nevermind that crazy stuff I posted earlier. Is this right for the 2 toggle switch wiring? (assume there's power going to the center of the up/down switch.)
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2011
  8. theplowmeister

    theplowmeister 2000 Club Member
    from MA
    Messages: 2,548

    That relay is too big for the key pad. the relay probably only needs to switch 5 amps. the current those relays draw through the keypad is going to be about 2 amps, too much.

    I can figure it out but not till next week. A life long friend passed away last Saturday and I'm tied up with that for now.
     
  9. djacidjac

    djacidjac Junior Member
    Messages: 11

    @Plowmeister, that was my intention. I guess I need to double-check my understanding of the pump. If I can just go with a couple of DPDT mom-off-mom switchs, that's what I'll do. i'm over-complicating.
     
  10. djacidjac

    djacidjac Junior Member
    Messages: 11

    ...and if i really really want the d-pad, i'll go for it then. Thanks for helping though. Sorry about your friend.
    Wish you the best.
     
  11. dave_dj1

    dave_dj1 Senior Member
    from NY
    Messages: 350

    Why do you need any diodes? I have been contemplating doing the same exact thing with a gaming controller, the float isn't a real big issue for me (figure I can hold my hand on the down button for an extra second) I think all you need to do is wire it to some low amperage relays and you should be good to go. What size are the contacts in the game controller? Nothing realy draws all that much from the swithces.
    Keep us posted!:mechanic:
     
  12. djacidjac

    djacidjac Junior Member
    Messages: 11

    corrected wiring

    I downloaded the manual. My schematic is wrong. I believed the B-solenoid operation was the inverse of what it is. It would still need a diode between the motor solenoid's relay and the B-solenoid's relay, and between the Motor's and C. Otherwise the "up" and "left" buttons would both just make it angle left.

    I considered the cost of the parts (relays, diodes, diodes to protect d-pad switches...) and my time and aggravation and decided that using some non-brand DPDT momentary on-off-on switches would be the best thing to do. I would only need the switches and wiring. Maybe when it's warmer out and there's more natural light in the evening I'll get the NES or Playstation controller hooked up. I may not even get the E-47 rebuilt this winter.

    I will definately post results and pictures if I do anything interesting with it though.

    Here are (I think) the correct diagrams:

    [​IMG]
    I could substitute these switches for DPDT relays and just have my d-pad energize them, but 2 of those relays cost more than 4 SPDT (used as SPST) relays and some diodes -which costs less than 8 SP"S"T relays and zero diodes.
    why does Meyer seem to have up/down and left/right pointing the wrong way in their diagram?

    [​IMG]
     
  13. dave_dj1

    dave_dj1 Senior Member
    from NY
    Messages: 350

    I see why you think you would need diodes now but in reality you don't need them, forget about the wire/diode you show between the wires going to the B & C valves, just jump a wire from the controler, angle right and up and left to the big under hood solenoid, just like you wan to with the dpdt switches.
    Make sure you use a dpdt center off for the up down sw. It's momentary on in the up position, center off, it will stay in the down position for the float of the plow.
    good luck! :mechanic:
     
  14. theplowmeister

    theplowmeister 2000 Club Member
    from MA
    Messages: 2,548

    Yes he needs diodes els when you give up command the plow will try to go left and right all at once.

    the last schematic looks good
     
  15. FOX-SNO-REMOVAL

    FOX-SNO-REMOVAL Senior Member
    Messages: 113

    That last one looks good. I thought about doin it but then i just went with the dpdt switches. and they work fine. But maybe ill try it again who knows. Good Luck
     
  16. mreamer

    mreamer Member
    Messages: 85

    Definitely need the diodes. Latest schematic looks good! Keep us posted!
     
  17. Harford13

    Harford13 Senior Member
    Messages: 147

    More than 5 amps, mine pulls six or seven