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Meyer (possible universal) question re: cylinders

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by beverlylawncare, Mar 8, 2008.

  1. beverlylawncare

    beverlylawncare Member
    Messages: 78

    I broke the mounting plate off the backside of the moldboard where it pivots at the tip of the A-frame. In order to weld it back on, I need to remove the angle cylinders to realign it back with the A-frame. My question is this: The angle cylinders appear to be more extended than normal, and I need to "compress" them a few inches each. Is there a way to do this? I didn't want to just go pressing the controller left and right in fear the piston may come completely out of the cylinder.

    HELP!

    Thanks!
    Justin
    (plugging in the welder as soon as I post this....)
     
  2. abbert55

    abbert55 Senior Member
    Messages: 170

    Sure, just remove the hydraulic lines that attach to the cylinders and you can push the rams back by hand. Be prepaired to catch the fluid though. I usually wrap a shop rag around them first and drain them into a drainpan. :nod:
     
  3. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Same as abbert mentioned except you probably wont be able to compress them by hand. But simply take a rubber mallet or a regular hammer with a block of wood and pound on the end of the ram to compress it.
     
  4. beverlylawncare

    beverlylawncare Member
    Messages: 78

    Thanks for the info. I called a buddy who told me the same thing! Next question - anybody have problems with this "L Bracket" breaking where the bolt comes through the "L Bracket" then through the top of the A sector? I re welded mine tonight only to have it fail again after maybe 10 minutes of light plowing.

    Thanks again!
    Justin
     
  5. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Seen plenty of broken L brackets over the years. Usually do to running the plow with the pivot hole on the sector or A-frame worn out...also from sub standard welds.
     
  6. beverlylawncare

    beverlylawncare Member
    Messages: 78

    I have no doubt MY weld may have been "substandard" on the L bracket. We used a grinder as best we could and welded with a stick welder. The sticks we had weren't that large of diameter. (ones we use for fixing a mower deck or even a velke - thinner material) I'm heading to the store in a bit to buy larger.

    Do you know if the hold on the actual backside of the plow (below the L bracket) is actually a hole, or a slotted hole? Mine (of course, now, after breaking twice) is slotted. I'm sure it originally was an actual hole though. I'm looking for exploded diagrams now to verify.
     
  7. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    The hole in the L bracket, the sector, and both holes in the nose plates on the front of the A-frame are supposed to be round...but seldom ever are after a few seasons of use. :rolleyes:
     
  8. Snowpower

    Snowpower Senior Member
    Messages: 636

    You got to be tired of talking about this.

    lol
     
  9. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Not a bit.

    ...possible character flaw on my part maybe? :)
     
  10. Snowpower

    Snowpower Senior Member
    Messages: 636

    lol....was just kidding because he has a similar issue as I do. I think I made the right call holding off and doing just what I did do. Will fab the whole thing properly in summer.

    Doesn't look like we are having many more if any events that I can see.
     
  11. beverlylawncare

    beverlylawncare Member
    Messages: 78

    Thanks! Mine isn't even classified as an "oval" or "elipitical" hole. It WAS a hole, that now has an open end large enough for the bolt to come out of there. Should I try and fill it in with a stick welder to close it back off, or try and square it off a bit and fit a piece in there. Of course plan "c" would be to just buy all new plating for the backside of my poly plow and have a perfect hole again. But I'd like my snow removal to be profitable!

    payup
     
  12. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    If you bolt hole is is now a notch, then cut a square out of it like you mentioned and replace that section. Or change the entire nose plate/plates with new pieces...either way is fine.
     
  13. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    It's hard to correct the hole with a weld. The weld's metal is real hard from the material the stick deposits. Your better off to buy a new piece and weld it on. You can angle grind the outside surfaces but the inside bore will chew through stones or drill bits. If it's not right it could bind or freeze in places.
     
  14. abbert55

    abbert55 Senior Member
    Messages: 170

    I repaired my old 1975 meyer ST7.5 pivot pin with hardened bushings and a hardened pin. torch the hole out large enough for the bushings, carefully grind away any slag, align the pin and bushings, weld the new bushings in and voila, you're done. Repair outlasts the rest of the blade. I just retired the Meyer in January of this year and only needed to rebush it once.;) You might consider this method as a cost effective and permanent solutionussmileyflag
     
  15. AbsoluteH&L

    AbsoluteH&L Senior Member
    Messages: 573

    Another fix is to upsize the privet pin and hole. I originally did this with my 6.5 mini Meyer, but I will do it to my 7.5 before the start of next season. The bigger pin and hole give it more surface area to wear, hence slowing the rate of wear. If you follow me. :dizzy: