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meyer E 47 set works fine for about 2hrs then...

Discussion in 'Meyer / Diamond Products Discussion' started by bruno_rs, Feb 23, 2008.

  1. bruno_rs

    bruno_rs Junior Member
    Messages: 13

    hey all, i have a meyer E47 (2) toggle swith set up on my 84 dodge w150. the problem is, everything works fine until i hit the 2-3 hr threshold and then the "electrical contact" of both switches (up/down, left/right) is, at times, "temporarily unavailable". if i increase the rpm's, it will power the plow. both switches are brand new and the truck just came back from an electrical expert who replaced some cables/wires and cleaned numerous contacts and/or grounds. i was told the electrical system IS charging AND up to snow plowing. however once again, after 2-3 hrs in the truck constantly working the switches, i have to (sometimes) rev the engine in order to get the switches enough power to move the plow. the movement in any direction is NOT slow or weak... just "touchy" AFTER 2-3 hrs working the switches. i have read alternators do not charge (well) at idle... could it be my alt. is not powerful enough? could the selenoid cause intermitent failure and/or hesitation or is it a part which will work (properly) until total failure? also i "piggybacked" power (to switches) from a fuse in the fuse block... could this be my problem... too many accessories on one circuit? should a plow have a dedicated curcuit? thanks, looking forward to hearing from you all. have a good one.
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2008
  2. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    It won't even lower/drop when it isn't working correctly?
     
  3. AbsoluteH&L

    AbsoluteH&L Senior Member
    Messages: 573

    A dedicated power circuit would be better, but does sound like the alternator is having a hard time keeping up. A bigger alternator, bigger battery (more amps), or a second battery all could help.
     
  4. bruno_rs

    bruno_rs Junior Member
    Messages: 13

    b&b thanks for posting. now that you mention it, it will drop... but not raise. just as i said, it works fine for the first 2-3 hours and then the problem begins and is sporadic. seems if i'm on a big driveway using the switches (alot) it's alittle worse than a small easy drive. when i encounter the problem, i rev the engine and the switches/plow work again. the pump does not feel weak and/or slow. the lights ALWAYS flicker (alittle) when i hit either switch but every meyer i've ever used did that. head/plow light stay bright as well as ALL the other electrical components (wipers, heater, etc.) work fine. any ideas? thanks, looking forward to hearing from you. have a good one.
     
  5. bruno_rs

    bruno_rs Junior Member
    Messages: 13

    sorry... just erased the message i posted twice and had to write something... oops
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2008
  6. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Since it will still drop/lower when its acting up then I wouldn't suspect the problem is even in the control switches or wiring for them...

    More than likely it's the under hood solenoid that's causing the problem. Sometimes when they get weak from age/use they'll act up after prolonged use due to the heat/electrical load placed on them, combined with age.

    Age + heat = electrical resistance = no plow movement.

    Also, check to make sure the UHS is grounded well. Seen a few work for a while and then temp lose ground and not function. :nod:
     
  7. bruno_rs

    bruno_rs Junior Member
    Messages: 13

    thanks b&b and absolute h&l, i was thinking along the line of your suggestions. i'll probably start with replacing the selenoid...it's only a few years old, but it's electric!! unfortunately, i cannot let you all know what may work (or not), until the next snowfall... here in jersey who knows when that'll be. this season's been the worst i've ever had in 20 years of snow plowing. while i'm writing, i just thought of something... the switch harness is "snaked" threw the dash and it gets quite warm under there... do you think i should route the harness on the outside of the dash? could the heater generate enough heat, in the dash area, to create resistance? meanwhile, i'll start with the selenoid and take it from there. thanks again guys. have a good one.
     
  8. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    The harness getting "too hot" wouldn't be an issue.

    If it actually got hot enough to affect the operation of the plow then you better stop...cuz it's on fire :D!

    Change out the solenoid and check the connections on it and see how it works.
     
  9. bruno_rs

    bruno_rs Junior Member
    Messages: 13

    thanks b&b, i'll do just that. i really appreciate all your help. hopefully we'll get a couple more storms, here in jersey, before the season's over and i can let you know what is the true culprit here. thanks again and best of luck to you. have a good one.
     
  10. bruno_rs

    bruno_rs Junior Member
    Messages: 13

    don't know how but i posted twice, sorry
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2008
  11. sefh

    sefh Senior Member
    Messages: 437

    When your switches become touchy do your headlights dim? If so change alternator, If not I'm thinking you might have a wiring issue. If the wires are over heated from use you will lack currency in them. I would think about this spring is to get bigger alt and change over the wiring harness. Just my $.02
     
  12. bruno_rs

    bruno_rs Junior Member
    Messages: 13

    sefh, thanks for your .02. like i said earlier, everything is fine for the first 2-3 hours... then the switches become "touchy", the headlamps do not get dim they just "flicker" the moment one of the switches is used. the lights, heater and wipers do not dim and/or slow down or stop working. every meyer that i've owned did the same (lights flicker when switches are used). my reason for bringing the headlights/plowlights flickering to everyones attention is, (maybe) this is not normal and/or could be a clue as to what may be wrong with my setup. i didn't say the harness gets hot... i was just asking, since the harness is snaked thru the dash panel and everyone mentioning, heat = resistance, maybe heat from the heater could generate enough to create resistance? my thoughts are... IF it is the alternator (failing), wouldn't all the other electrical components also dim and/or fail when the plow decides to "take a break"? don't get me wrong, i really appreciate your help and/or advice... only a dumb man will talk and not listen... i greatly appreciate and will always listen to everyones .02. thanks again for your reply and if we get another storm i'll let you all know if replacing the selenoid and cleaning up its' ground did the trick... only thing left after that will be the alternator. thanks again, have a good one.
     
  13. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    A good tip here as far a questioning the Alt or battery as a possible cause for the problem...It's not likely in your case, if it was running so low on power that the plow wouldn't operate, they'll normally stall the truck as soon as you move a plow function rather than the plow just not operating.
     
  14. bruno_rs

    bruno_rs Junior Member
    Messages: 13

    i agree with you b&b. years ago my chevy mason dump did just that... too much draw on the electrical system and the truck shut down. my (auto) electrician was certain the alternator was/is not my problem. he said it was most likely a poor connection and thought he found it, a few weeks back. unfortunately, for me, it's gonna take another storm to find if the problem is solved by installing a new selenoid and cleaning up the metal for a better ground. thanks again for all your help. have a good one.