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Meyer Angle Problems

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by Daddy Wags, Feb 20, 2007.

  1. Daddy Wags

    Daddy Wags Member
    Messages: 62

    I bought a used 7 1/2' Meyer, E-47 set-up. The hoses/fittings needed to be replaced so I replaced all of them. The first time I hooked everything up I raised/lowered with no problem. I angled left, then angled right and when I went to angle back left, nothing happened. I've tried a few things: Fluid level is good, I can hear the pump strain when I go L/R on the switch. I have a magnetic pull with a screwdriver on the solenoid. It sounds like it wants to angle, but does nothing. Up & Down works fine. Do I have air in the cylinders? I bled the lines after it stopped working. Any thoughts?
     
  2. poncho62

    poncho62 Senior Member
    Messages: 431

    Check your "B" and "C" valves.........they are under those coils...could be a bad "O" ring, or they could be sticking.
     
  3. Daddy Wags

    Daddy Wags Member
    Messages: 62

    Are those pretty easy to remove?
     
  4. poncho62

    poncho62 Senior Member
    Messages: 431

    Once you take the electric coil off, it unscrews out of the pump
     
  5. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    More than likely one of your quick couplers are bad. On a Meyer pump, as long as you have the hoses connected correctly the default position is to angle left when theirs a coil or valve problem.In other words, if you try and raise the blade but it goes left instead,then the B coil/valve isn't working. If you try to go right and instead it goes left, then the C valve/coil isn't working.The only things that can keep it from going left is either your quick couplers are defective or you have the hoses connected backward's AND the C valve/coil isn't working.
     
  6. Daddy Wags

    Daddy Wags Member
    Messages: 62

    Thanks for the input. I'll try all the suggestions. It's just weird that it angled both ways when I first hooked everything up. Both couplers are new, do you think both can be bad?
     
  7. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    I've taken brand new couplers out of the box that didn't work so just because their new won't necessary mean that their not defective. I doubt that both of your's are bad but if either one fail's it wont angle.Sometime's disconnecting and reconnecting them a few time's will make them work again....but usually it's only temporary.
     
  8. Daddy Wags

    Daddy Wags Member
    Messages: 62

    As it stands now, I have the hose out of the driver side ram going to the pump block fitting towards the passenger side. Is that correct?
     
  9. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Yep,as long as the pump is mounted on the truck in the correct position (with the fittings at the rear of the pump) your connections are correct.
     
  10. Daddy Wags

    Daddy Wags Member
    Messages: 62

    It's hooked up correct. I'll try new couplers. What do you use on the threads? Do the angle rams bleed the air themselves, or does it have to be done manually? Thanks for your help!
     
  11. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    I like to use Teflon tap on them BUT when you wrap the tape around the thread's,start the tape on the 2nd or 3rd thread from the end of the fitting. If you start it on the first thread you risk getting tape inside the coupler, and it can plug the connector.(Maybe thats what happened the first time?). The angle cylinders will bleed themselves usually, but some can be stubborn and you have to manually bleed them at the hose connections.
     
  12. Daddy Wags

    Daddy Wags Member
    Messages: 62

    I was told by a dealer to use pipe thread compound, so that's what I used originally. I don't need to replace the connector that goes in the coupler, do I?
     
  13. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Generally I don't use the liquid thread compounds.Too easy to plug stuff up with it.I feel the tape gives you more control of where your placing it. As to the coupler, yes you want to change BOTH sides of the coupler as either side could be defective.
     
  14. Daddy Wags

    Daddy Wags Member
    Messages: 62

    Well, I replaced both couplers with no luck. I'm at a loss. I hate to take it to someone to fix, but I think I'm out of options.
     
  15. poncho62

    poncho62 Senior Member
    Messages: 431

    Did you pull the "B" and "C" valves out and look at them?
     
  16. Daddy Wags

    Daddy Wags Member
    Messages: 62

    No I didn't. I will. What am I looking for?
     
  17. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    What position is the plow stuck in right now? Is it all the way to the left?
     
  18. Daddy Wags

    Daddy Wags Member
    Messages: 62

    It's not stuck in any position. I've put a bolt through the sector to keep in one position. With the bolt out, I can manually push the plow either way.
     
  19. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Pull the C valve out of the angle block like poncho said (the one with the green wire) and look very closely at the O-rings around the valve.Check them for any kind of damage (cut or torn). Check the screens on the outside of the valve for debris also (like liquid thread sealant:D ) Then, take a nail or a small screwdriver and push in on the bottom of the valve, feeling to see if the spool inside the valve will move freely.
     
  20. Daddy Wags

    Daddy Wags Member
    Messages: 62

    I pulled the C Valve out and the O-rings look ok except the one closest to the thread, the edge toward the threads is freyed slightly. I'm not sure if it's enough to matter. I can push the valve in also. It has some tension when I push, but comes right back when I release. There must be a spring inside the valve. Do they sell O-ring kits for the valve? What do you think I should do?