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Manual locking hubs

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by jlsanborn, May 29, 2003.

  1. jlsanborn

    jlsanborn Member
    Messages: 34

    What does it take to put manual locking hubs on my '77 GM Dana 60? There is just a dust cover in the end of the hub. No tapped holes. Are there brand names to avoid? Are there any mods required for the 205 t-case?
     
  2. Garagekeeper

    Garagekeeper Senior Member
    Messages: 459

    Lock Out Hubs

    There will be no problem for you to install a pair of lock out hubs. Everything you need will come in the kit along with easy to follow directions. We use Warn's Premiem hubs most of the time. You'll find that the part that the hub anchors into is part of the gear pack that goes inside, so don't worry about there not being any holes.
    :rolleyes: John.....
     
  3. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    You will not have to do any mods to the NP 205,as it is all ready a part-time case.

    If and when you do the conversion,save all the old stuff,as I'd be interested.I want to convert some of mine back to the old style without locking hubs.

    E-mail me if you want to get rid of them.
     
  4. jlsanborn

    jlsanborn Member
    Messages: 34

    I would be happy to get rid of the old stuff. I am going to be too busy for the next couple of weeks but plan on doing asap.
     
  5. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    No rush,just let me know when you get them done,and we can arrange the details.
     
  6. Joey D

    Joey D Senior Member
    Messages: 280

    I thought the '77 was an full time 4X4, unless it's a standard trans?
     
  7. jlsanborn

    jlsanborn Member
    Messages: 34

    My truck is a manual. My local 4x4 shop insisted that I must have a full time t-case if I had full time hubs. I don't understand either. Thanks to this forum I am now confident that I indeed have the 205 and will only need to swap the hubs.
    I called this morning and they quoted me 180 some bucks for the premium hubs. Is this reasonable?
     
  8. Joey D

    Joey D Senior Member
    Messages: 280

    I forgot that GM did have the 203 behind very, very few 4 speeds. The easiest way to tell is get under and look and the case and read the plate on the back. What does the shifter handle read?
     
  9. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    It is also possible someone may have swapped in a different transfer case,or a different front axle.GM also did a lot of wierd things in some of the 77 and 78 models,so maybe it was misbuilt by GM.
     
  10. Joey D

    Joey D Senior Member
    Messages: 280

    If it is a 203 I know a place to sell it. The 465 to 203 adapter is a wanted peice for the 4 wheeling guys.
     
  11. DrMaserati

    DrMaserati Junior Member
    Messages: 11

    I paid $125 for Warn premiums for a Dana 60 in 1986. Last price I saw was almost $200, so $180+ sounds like a fair price.
     
  12. jlsanborn

    jlsanborn Member
    Messages: 34

    My t-case shift pattern is:
    4L
    N
    2H
    4H
    I am going to be out of touch for a couple of weeks.
    Thank everyone for their help.
     
  13. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    That pattern is definitly a NP 205.
     
  14. jlsanborn

    jlsanborn Member
    Messages: 34

    Picked up the Warn Prems - PN/ 38826
    These do not quite fit my housing. The body and shaft splines match up and the unit will slide in, but not all the way in. There is no groove in the housing to accept the large spiral lock ring supplied in the kit. ???
    The man behind the counter could is baffled. The pro is on vacation till Wednesday!
    Correct kin PN/?

    (picture is hard to look at! Cover one half with your hand to see with or without the body)

    section.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2003
  15. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    Install the inner hubs,and use a small thin bead of urethane to hold them in place.Clean the surfaces with brake cleaner first.You should have a small groove on the outer axle stub shaft which will accept a snap ring to hold the hub in place also.

    Be glad you don't have the outer ring,it can be a real pain to get out sometimes.As long as you have the inner snap ring,the urethane will hold the rest of it in place so it won't walk around.
     
  16. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    I just took a second look at your pic,and see now how it won't slide all the way in.Are you sure it's just not hanging up on something ? Have you measured the depth to see if there is enough room for it to go in ? If there is,then you may have to wiggle it around until it drops in.Sometimes they can be a little tight.The axle shaft must be dead center too,or it will hang up on it.

    If there isn't enough room,then you may have to swap the hub assy (the part with the bearings in it) for one that will accept manual hubs.
     
  17. jlsanborn

    jlsanborn Member
    Messages: 34

    there was a sleeve installed between the bearing and the back of the drive flange. I wasn't shown on the destruction sheet. I guess it was in there to hold the flange up near the snap ring and limit the amount of lateral movement?
    Anyway, plucked it out and the new units dropped right in. There is definately no groove for the lock ring. The lock ring provided in the kit at least an eighth larger in diameter than the bore of the hub. The drawings that came in the box showed a spring and slinger behind the drive flange. These pieces were not in my original hubs?
    I have never heard of liquid urethane. Am I missing out on something good? I just cleaned it up and went the circumference with RTV silicone.
    wyldman,
    If you still want the old guts e-me with a ship to and I would be happy to send them to you. Not much there, only the sleeve, drive flange and dinged up dust cover.
    thanks
     
  18. jlsanborn

    jlsanborn Member
    Messages: 34

    there was a sleeve installed between the bearing and the back of the drive flange. I wasn't shown on the destruction sheet. I guess it was in there to hold the flange up near the snap ring and limit the amount of lateral movement?
    Anyway, plucked it out and the new units dropped right in. There is definitely no groove for the lock ring. The lock ring provided in the kit at least an eighth larger in diameter than the bore of the hub. The drawings that came in the box showed a spring and slinger behind the drive flange. These pieces were not in my original hubs?
    I have never heard of liquid urethane. Am I missing out on something good? I just cleaned it up and went the circumference with RTV silicone.
    wyldman,
    If you still want the old guts e-me with a ship to and I would be happy to send them to you. Not much there, only the sleeve, drive flange and dinged up dust cover.
    thanks
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2003
  19. Rick Loncosky

    Rick Loncosky Senior Member
    from 17557
    Messages: 102

    While on the subject of hubs; I just put new U-joints in my front axles, 77 K20. I was cleaning the manual selector and it broke into 5 pieces. I was being more carefull on the other side and it broke into 4 pieces. I didn't drop it, I was just turning it inside the outter hub and it broke. Was the spring too much pressure for the plastic? Does anybody have any they want to get rid of? I hate to buy a whole kit just for the selectors:realmad: ! Any sugguestions? Thanks Rick.
     
  20. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    jlsanborn - I'll take the old stuff if your done with it.I'll e-mail you the details

    Rick - if the outer hub has come apart,it's toast.Either find a couple of used ones,or get the Warn premium hubs.If you go used,get the inner and outer together,so they match.Some are different,and if you use just the outer,it may not engage and damage the whole assy.

    The Warn's are all metal,and extremly tough.Money well spent.