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Making wings for my 26 Series

Discussion in 'Sno-Way Discussion' started by turbo38sfi, Sep 22, 2008.

  1. turbo38sfi

    turbo38sfi Senior Member
    Messages: 289

    I've got some plans drawn up below that are the basic design of the wings I'm having made.
    I know that there are other wings out there, but I was not satisfied with what I had read and about the way they attached so I've made some prototype designs based on my own thoughts.

    I'm figuring they will attach on a 20* angle and be about 2/3rds of the overall height. So that's about 17.5" tall.

    They'll be mild steel AISI 1020, and have replacable steel cutting edge also. The ribs will be CNC cut and will slip on via a receive type setup and have a pin. For my plow I'm going to be welding the receiver to the backside of the plow but have contemplated making a bolt on setup if there were any interest others may have.

    Are there obvious features or flaws I may have overlooked that I should consider in my design that you can think of?

    wing1.jpg

    wing2.jpg

    wing3.jpg

    wing4.jpg
     
  2. nbenallo33

    nbenallo33 Senior Member
    Messages: 826

    wow that looks pretty nice!
    i bet thats gonna be some big bucks
     
  3. turbo38sfi

    turbo38sfi Senior Member
    Messages: 289

    Not sure on that yet$ I should know later this afternoon or in the morning. I like the way the design came out, but this sketch does not show the angle..it was missed. They've been redrawn now to take into account the 20* attach angle.

    They definitely will be strong enough, that's for sure! :)
     
  4. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    You need to allow for the yeild chain, make them too strong, give them too much rigidity they will promote failure further down the way.

    Looks good.
     
  5. toby4492

    toby4492 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,513

    They do look nice.

    Basher brings up a good point to consider as far as yield is concerned. JMO
     
  6. nbenallo33

    nbenallo33 Senior Member
    Messages: 826

    very good point
     
  7. turbo38sfi

    turbo38sfi Senior Member
    Messages: 289

    Can you give me more detail on what you mean?

    For example, if I'm plowing straight currently with no wings and have too much snow in front of me? that eventually there will be a failure of something. I get the idea of the weakest link and something has got to break, I drag race :)

    But for plowing purposes..what could or should break if I have a huge scoop of snow.
     
  8. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    The key is leverage, if you add 18" to the end of a 90" (7'6") plow you have increased the lever arm by almost 100% at the fulcrum (the point the swing frame attaches to the blade. You've increase the length of the lever by almost 40% and area by an equal amount. You will have to increase the relief setting in your crossovers to maintain angle under comparable snow loads. You will also be lifting considerably more weight not only because of the increased length but since you stated they will be angled forward in a "scoop" configuration you have increased containment further raising the mass you're attempting to move. You in no way address the extra loads in any of the plows existing components so they will be operating over designed capacity.

    IMO there isn't enough structure on the plow side, mounting tubes to short relationally to the wing, doesn't allow enough load bare on the blade. But with-out detailed drawings that is speculation.
     
  9. turbo38sfi

    turbo38sfi Senior Member
    Messages: 289

    I get what you're saying. I was planning to have the "receiver" on the back of the frame catch 2 ribs for strength so I don't think that will be an isssue. I understand if you only attach at one spot there would be some issues there.

    How do you increase the relief setting in the crossovers?
     
  10. hydro_37

    hydro_37 PlowSite Veteran
    from iowa
    Messages: 3,790

    They do look good. Price will be a factor if you plan to market them.
     
  11. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    http://www.snoway.com/service/Monarch Repair/MonarchRepairManual.pdf
     
  12. turbo38sfi

    turbo38sfi Senior Member
    Messages: 289

    I read what was posted in raising the relief setting and I wonder if I don't have that problem now.

    If I ever had a pile of snow and went at it with my plow angled, my plow would never stay at angle and always straighten out. Seems like it is set low to protect from breaking things. Am I correct?
     
  13. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    You could have a improperly set C O relief, I've seen crap stuck in them too. Doesn't allow it to seat properly.

    the instructions are there for cleaning and adjusting it or if it's still under warranty have a dealer do it for you.
     
  14. turbo38sfi

    turbo38sfi Senior Member
    Messages: 289

    If the price is reasonable, I'll ask the fabricator about how they could be made to bolt on somehow.

    I'm planning on having all of my receiver tubing welded to my plow with a section of receiver upright so the wings can be stored behind the plow when not in use for smaller drives like the new Snoway design.
     
  15. turbo38sfi

    turbo38sfi Senior Member
    Messages: 289

    I will have it checked out. It is still under warranty also. It has done that since day 1 so I always figured it was on purporse so you don't hit a large pile at an angle and end up bending a piston.

    For example, if there is a banking on the side of a drive and I want to try to drive it back a bit further and go at it only trying to take a few inches from it..and my plow is straight. As soon as I try to cut into the bank, my plow will turn to the right (if the banking is on the right side of my truck)
     
  16. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    the CO is designed to relieve overloads to the system, purpose is to do what you are describing. Obviously if you hit a dirt bank hard enough the resistance SHOULD set the reliefs in action.

    Take it to the dealer, have him call the factory and check your unit against possible tech. bulletins. He should also be able to check for a broken spring and set the proper relief point.
     
  17. turbo38sfi

    turbo38sfi Senior Member
    Messages: 289

    Thanks Basher. I will give them a call to test it out.

    Are there any other suggestions? I am thinking I should just make the wings to be the full height of the plow..thoughts?
     
  18. turbo38sfi

    turbo38sfi Senior Member
    Messages: 289

    Made a few modifications. Going to have the wing be the full height of the blade. Also looking into rubber cutting edges rather than steel. Gonna end up costing me $700. I'm the gunie pig and there was a lot of cost in time designing them. I'm excited about getting them and mentioned to the builder about possibly getting a group buy going if he can make them into a package.
     
  19. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    What do they weigh
     
  20. turbo38sfi

    turbo38sfi Senior Member
    Messages: 289

    I won't know that until they are completed. I'm bringing my plow to the builder for final measurements before he cuts out the pieces in 2 weeks.

    The endcaps and ribs will all be cut on a jet cutter, it should be pretty nice when completed.