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Main Pivot Bolt Problems?

Discussion in 'Hiniker' started by Mamesman, Feb 1, 2009.

  1. Mamesman

    Mamesman Junior Member
    from Alaska
    Messages: 8

    I bought my plow brand new 3 years ago (C-Plow), Less than a month later the blade slid out of the ears of the A Frame and fell on the ground! The dealer told me the main pivot bolt came loose due to a faulty nut/bolt combo and finally snapped from sloppy connections and bounced out of it's hole, hence; the ears spread, the blade slid out of the ears and walla, plow blade fell separate, bending the rams and connections in the process! According to the dealer, they called in all the other c plows they sold that year and all of the center bolts were loose or broken!

    Well, they put a new bolt in and away I went! Well, as you can see I also have posted under the forks issue several times for that problem!

    Anyhoooo, I am on my 5th bolt, the A frame and the blade tube (curved one with the bolt hole in it) had all been replaced finally at the end of last year. The dealer replaced the bolt so many times that one of the ears broke off when they were tightening it up.

    First thing this year the bolt broke again, this of course wallowed out my new set up and ground the female hex shaped part that holds the top of the bolt from spinning, that had to be ground off just to get a hold of the bolt head to tighten the new one. The dealer told me the new bolt I got a couple months ago was a "new design, due to a flaw in thread length on the old bolts?". Well, I have to tighten this one continuously and the whole ear and tube part is completely worn out and super sloppy! Hiniker won't help me any more so I am on my own. Best I can figure is another huge repair bill to have all that sleeved in the spring (I hope it makes it that far).

    The worst part is my plow is still in excellent shape, I am far from abusive and regularly get yelled at for taking too long on lots (I don't abuse like some so I am purposely slower). If any of you that wish to help question this, I can send photo's if any of you want to see the condition!

    Due to break downs, I have spent more than I paid originally and never have made enough to justify just selling this thing and getting something else. I LOVE the C plow for driveways, it is flat out the best thing available. But, how far can this go before I am either broke or permanently broken???

    Any of you have the bolt problem???
     
  2. RichG53

    RichG53 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,135

    I have a straight plow my bolt comes loose also ...What I do is keep an eye on it and tighten it up every so often..I also took the bolt out and put some good heavy duty grease in the hole & added a lock nut ..When your plow is up rock it up & down from one side if there is a lot of play I know it needs a couple of turns..I don't know if adding a lock washer would help a little more....
     
  3. RichG53

    RichG53 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,135

    To grease the bolt hole just raise the plow unbolt and push the plow to one side just enough to fill the hole.. Don't push to far...
     
  4. Mamesman

    Mamesman Junior Member
    from Alaska
    Messages: 8

    According to the local Hiniker people, It is not about grease or a lock washer?

    I do grease it when it is loose by spraying cable lube into the spacing but a loose bolt will gouge it apart wether it is greased or not, just the nature of sloppy metal.

    My question is actually to find out if any one else is having the same problem, I am looking for ideas on a permenant cure? Besides, as with my forks problem, Hiniker has claimed I am the only one still having this issue after the initial "bad bolt" problem. They have slipped up and said they "re designed" the bolt, sounds like an issue they know about to me?

    The factory sais that a lock washer is not recommended as the bolt/nut are specifically designed to "thread out" when it comes to 160 ft/lb and this is supposed to be a perfect squeeze on the ears for perfect friction? I had a lock washer on one of the past bolts that I put in when I had to fix it in the field, and it was a grade 8 bolt and once they got to look at it, I was told that I did it all wrong! Only grade 5 bolts are acceptable and only the bolt they made with the proper thread depth just for the application????? Oh well, I have thier bolt in there now and I continousley have to tighten it, probably due to the darn thing being too worn out to hold anything tight.

    I am actually thinking of tack welding the nut and head but my luck the darn thing would break again and I would not be able to change it in the field.

    Any ideas???
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2009
  5. Humvee27

    Humvee27 Senior Member
    Messages: 361

    just a thought...

    My dealer put the bolt in upside down....he then beat the nut and threads down with a hammer....he claimed when I asked about it that it seemed to solve the problem of the nuts coming loose and falling out, or elongating the holes....just a thought but maybe re-drill your holes then put in a fitting bolt and put the nut on after hitting down the threads?
     
  6. Mamesman

    Mamesman Junior Member
    from Alaska
    Messages: 8

    I like the idea of making sure the nut can't loosen, I don't know that I would have to turn the bolt over for that but maybe that would be easier to monitor?

    I stell want to tack it to the flanges but like I said, how would I ever do a fix in the field without breaking out the grinder?

    I will be reeming out and installing sleeves this spring after season. Not too many people answered this subject so either it is boring or not a common problem??

    Pat.
     
  7. Mamesman

    Mamesman Junior Member
    from Alaska
    Messages: 8

    Oh ya, when I install sleeves, I will also be drilling in the center of the square tube and installing a zert so I can grease the heck out of the bolt from now on. I will also be installing another lock or stop for the bolt head so it does not spin (as was originally designed by Hiniker) and either a peened, nylock or cotter pin style nut.

    pat.