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Main Bearings

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by bowtie726, Sep 12, 2006.

  1. bowtie726

    bowtie726 Junior Member
    Messages: 15

    I've got a K5 Blazer, the oil pump pick up tube and screen must have came out of the oil pump and it got mangled in the pan with chunks of shredded metal from the screen cover. Obviously, my main and rod bearings are shot.
    Here's the ? is it possible to change the top main bearing with the engine in the truck and crank installed?
    I've heard you can tap the one end around the crank and slide the new one in... is it doable?
     
  2. Rick Loncosky

    Rick Loncosky Senior Member
    from 17557
    Messages: 102

    That's how I did mine. I used a butter knife that I borrowed from the kitchen. With a slight modification it worked great. Don't tell the wife your taking one. :nono:
     
  3. bowtie726

    bowtie726 Junior Member
    Messages: 15

    a butter knife huh? you just used it in place of the punch then? how easy do they spin around there? did you just do one bearing at a time? or did you take them all off and let it sorta hang on the piston rods? or just loosen up all of them so you can take a little pressure off the top bearing? Sorry I'm asking so many ?'s but i don't wanna **** it up and end up having to pull the motor anyways
     
  4. Rick Loncosky

    Rick Loncosky Senior Member
    from 17557
    Messages: 102

    Yes, 1 at a time. It was hardly any force to push the top bearing around. Don't forget to replace the rear main seal while you in there. Do it the same way, except I keep the half's offset from cap about 1/8". I would grind the knife flat on the end and file/polish it SMOOTH and put a curve in it and you'll have a great installation tool. Good luck ask more ? if ya need.............
     
  5. The rear main seal won't be quite as easy as the bearings. You can loosen all the mains but don't take them all off at the same time. Once you push the seal out a bit, you can grab it with needlenose pliers and pull it out. Dip the new one in oil and it will slide right in. Do as Rick says and offset the ends of the seal about 1/8 inch from the bearing cap. I never thought I would hear someone else besides me do it that way, but never say never! Good Luck!
     
  6. Yaz

    Yaz PlowSite.com Addict
    from NH
    Messages: 1,061

    Personally I would just pull the engine and do it out on a stand. What your doing sounds doable but I was taught to clean the bearing seats with a new strait edge razor blade on the block side before dropping in the bearing. You can have that engine out in about 4 hours. and then you will have it done right. Doing that on your back sounds like a nightmare!
     
  7. bowtie726

    bowtie726 Junior Member
    Messages: 15

    thanks for all the help! I know i ought to pull the engine, but my blazer has too much lift on it for my engine puller to even get the motor up high enough to get it all the way off the motor mounts.... just want to get it back into the mud before it gets cold
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2006