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magnetic light placement

Discussion in 'Jeeps' started by tasbm5, Oct 8, 2008.

  1. tasbm5

    tasbm5 Member
    from canada
    Messages: 47

    Hey guys new here great place to show me how much i don't know. i'm also new to the the plow thing and jeep thing any way my question is where do you guys that don't use the off road light bars mout your amber light ? I should mention i have a magnetic light.

    thanks terry
     
  2. theplowmeister

    theplowmeister 2000 Club Member
    from MA
    Messages: 2,551

    I glued a metal plate on the roof of my Jeep. The light kept getting knocked off by branches and denting the door when it swings by the power cord. Then I used the bolt for the magnet on the light through the belt on a ratchet tie down strap. working fine for 15 years.
     
  3. hillbillydeluxe

    hillbillydeluxe Senior Member
    Messages: 142

    Mine is mounted (magnetic) on a flat cover off of an electrical box (Home Depot). Although my cover is mounted to our light bar, you can use the cover with the electrical box. Then you can mount a conduit connector to the box, then a piece of conduit. Now you have a pole, with a metal box that has a flat plate for your flasher. I would suggest looking into a CB antennae mount. You can get them for mounting on the bumper, behind the taillight, ect..........you'll have to check um out to see which one will work. Will certainly need to be adapted to the conduit pole.
    Or.....................just do as Plowmeister does, use a strap........done.
    Good luck,
     
  4. MikeRi24

    MikeRi24 Senior Member
    Messages: 563

    Hey guys, I am in the same predicament as the original poster here. I am looking into getting your typical windshield Jeep light bar, but I'm not too crazy about those. I also want this to be as clean looking as possible and would rather not have straps and wires all over the place. I also dont want to drill holes in my roof. thanks!
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2008
  5. d70stang

    d70stang Junior Member
    Messages: 28

    I had the same problem. I got a Whelen LED low profile light. I drilled one hole (abt 7/8 inch) in my hard top and put a 1/2 inch npt cast iron threaded pipe (about 2 inches long total). I put a 1/2 in pipe cap (with a hole drilled in the center for the wires) along with two large washers on the inside of the Jeep. That left just the exposed 1/2 npt threads sticking out the roof. I also used a little silicone sealer around the base. Then I just bought a 1/2inch npt base plate which has three screws in the about three inch base plate which I secured to the underside of the whelen light. Then you basically just "screw on your light". Seems to work great so far. In the off season, I have another 1/2 plug, painted black so I can remove the light and you'll barely notice the plug. I'll try to post some pics when I have a chance. Hope that makes sense. Good luck.
     
  6. MikeRi24

    MikeRi24 Senior Member
    Messages: 563

    sounds like an interesting setup. I really do not want to drill a hole in the hard top though. I was thinking of trying some double stick tape. I am REALLY worried that its not gonna hold. A few other people that I ran this idea by swear that it'll work but I'm not really sold on it.
     
  7. bribrius

    bribrius PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,609

    i got a picture goldpro drew. :)
    Pretty good pic if i do say so myself but it isnt a jeep.

    xysport

    b6a6f99c07cf1ffdf330ed8af01b3c7e.jpg
     
  8. YardMedic

    YardMedic PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,266

    So YOU are the one responsible for the new Chevy front end! I figured GM used Paint as well to get the newest design
     
  9. d70stang

    d70stang Junior Member
    Messages: 28

    To redtjx,
    Yeah, I wasn't real ceazy about drilling the hole either but wanted one instead of several. I can't say I have any experience with the tape but I just could not trust it. My main thing was that I wanted to be able to take it off in the off season which hopefuly this should allow me to do. Let me know what you decide. Good luck.
     
  10. jblankster

    jblankster Junior Member
    Messages: 20

    [​IMG]

    long story short i did what one member suggested, i sandwitched a strap in between the magnet and the light bar so the rubber on the magnet dosent let the lightbar slide around and the straps keep it in place. i also have a whelen dash light clipped to the Passenger side visor and a federal signal firebeam in the rear. those are for when im too lazy to put the light bar up there.

    the rear.
    [​IMG]
    the strobes were on, jus in between flashes when i got this pic
    [​IMG]
    the light was spinning so i diddnt get a shot of it forward, but its sandwiched between the roll bar and the seat temporarily untill i build a mount for it.
     
  11. tasbm5

    tasbm5 Member
    from canada
    Messages: 47

    Thanks i never thought of using dash lights.Terry
     
  12. MikeRi24

    MikeRi24 Senior Member
    Messages: 563

    I ended up just making a light bar and then running the wires inside in between the hardtop and the windshield frame.
    [​IMG]

    The bar is detachable for summer. I also ran 2 off-road lights on the bar as well to aid in night-time visibility and boy does it help!
     
  13. bribrius

    bribrius PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,609


    And it looks good.

    I think i said that in another thread about your setup too!!
     
  14. mrmagnum

    mrmagnum Senior Member
    Messages: 162

    I have the same set-up as Bribrius on one of my Jeeps. Works really well for me.
     
  15. Bostonyj7

    Bostonyj7 Senior Member
    Messages: 183

    Use 1 strap or 2, and does the strap clear your melon?
     
  16. theplowmeister

    theplowmeister 2000 Club Member
    from MA
    Messages: 2,551

    Melon?? I hope you do not mean head!! The strap goes on the outside Hooks on to ether the drip rail above the door, I hook it to the front and rear of the hard top. The lip for the windshield and rear window. If you do a search on my posts, I think I put up some pictures.
     
  17. 18lmslcsr

    18lmslcsr Senior Member
    from WI.
    Messages: 113

    I chose a different route. My buddy works for a railway fab shop and he got me some of there stock. Fab'd this setup in house/shop!
    The lights are 4 - SuperBright White Burners 22Deg. on a Maxi Lite Olympic light bar.
    On the hood 2 -SuperBright Blue pin w/ factory mounts modified for "Silver"....
    The yellow flasher bar was fab'd in house.
    Plow is SnowSport HD.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    C.
     
  18. 18lmslcsr

    18lmslcsr Senior Member
    from WI.
    Messages: 113

    Total the system is pushing about 450-525w and approx. 30-45amps.
    There r absolutely no holes drilled anywhere and everything is completely sealed
    (via ship lap heat shrink joints and full skin heat shrink layer) from the elements.

    C.
     
  19. bierluvr

    bierluvr Junior Member
    Messages: 1

    No commercial solution, yet?

    As a new member of the forum, I intently read the previous posts, hoping to find the answer to a common problem. I have a 2004 TJ Wrangler with a factory hard top. To be in compliance, I want to attach an amber beacon for plowing, but I don't want to drill. (My 1992 Wrangler developed serious rust, despite my best efforts at preventive measures.) Carr makes what appears to be a suitable light bar, but the width is a problem. Is there really no commercially available option, yet? Are the manufacturers not aware of our plight? How often do you see a Cherokee or Commander with a plow on it? (But, they design the light bars fit them. I don't get it.) Any help will be appreciated!
     
  20. '76cj5

    '76cj5 Member
    Messages: 78

    I connected mine to the bolts on the window hinge. I just took some square tubing and welded a couple of plates to the tubing and attached it to the side of the windshield. The magnetic light had a tapped hole in the bottom so I could hard mount it.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I bet you can get by without any welding by drilling holes right in tubing and use longer bolts to attach it to the hinge. Use something on the side to protect the paint.