1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

Lot Pro or C8

Discussion in 'Meyer / Diamond Products Discussion' started by Moose's Mowing, Dec 26, 2013.

  1. Moose's Mowing

    Moose's Mowing Senior Member
    from SE PA
    Messages: 198

    OK, I've made up my mind, almost. I found a used C8 with an e60 pump for 500 bucks local to me. It's got a small patch in the skin but looks fair. A little love and I'd have it looking good. The positives about this options is #1: price, #2 gives me a spare e60 and a spare touch pad.

    Option #2: $2000 for a "facelift" LotPro 8' keeping all the truck side stuff the same. Pros to this option is a brand new blade with a warranty and that fancy plow slick paint and decal up front.

    I'm really torn here. I'm used to buying crap and fixing it up. I enjoy this to a point and I like to give old iron new life. BUT a brand new Lotpro is sure appealing. So just how much better is the new lot pro vs the old C8? I'm a little worried that the lot pro is so much higher than my current ST, it'll block out the plow lights. I do have the spacers for them though if needed. So I guess that's not an issue really. If the Lotpro really is THAT much better, I'll go with option #2. I do a lot of back dragging in my driveways and Meyer's website claims the lotpro has great back drag abilities.

    So, give me the rundown on the lotpro and how it compares to the old C8's. give me the good, the bad and the ugly. I'm also open to opinions on what you'd do in this case. If you have videos of a lotpro, that's a plus too. I searched the Tube, but didn't find much.
     
  2. Whiffyspark

    Whiffyspark 2000 Club Member
    from SOMD
    Messages: 2,402

    I'd just get the c8 for now. Save your money and upgrade to a new lot pro another day.

    Youre not buying anything more than the mold board. You still have all the same hydrolics and mount/a frame.

    So in my opinion. Buy the c8 and run it, do a complete lot pro upgrade when you can.
     
  3. JeepCoMJ

    JeepCoMJ Senior Member
    Messages: 284

    Agreed. $2000 to keep the same truck side everything has no appeal to me. You could buy that c8, reskin it, replace the rams, and get both e60s replaced for the 2 grand that just the blade side is going to cost you...and have $$$ left over.

    Heck, I offer a 1 season warranty on my rebuilds and could keep you under $650 to get both pumps redone. There are plenty of places to get that done.
     
  4. BUFF

    BUFF PlowSite Fanatic
    from FR NoCo
    Messages: 7,263

    I think you've made up you mind with option 1, which I agree with. With the C plow being around so long the used market is strong for buying additional spare parts and aftermarket parts.
    If you're concerned about the C plows back dragging ability add a back drag edge or better yet get a pull plow.
     
  5. Jim@esitrucks

    Jim@esitrucks Inactive
    Messages: 1,124

    The only major upgrade on the lot pro is the pivot pins are easier to get to and change should they break, as opposed to the C8, which can be a major pain
     
  6. Moose's Mowing

    Moose's Mowing Senior Member
    from SE PA
    Messages: 198

    well, I picked up the C8 today. Got the spare pump, and spare touchpad. Also got a dump truck frame and wiring harness. Have to find somebody that needs that stuff, otherwise I'll scrap it.

    Blades in decent shape, but needs to be re-skinned. I picked up a new skin, new hoses, new couplers new pivot pins and new cylinder packings. So this C8 will be getting a mini overhaul. This thing is HEAVY compared to the ST I'm currently using. Meyer's website lists the weights, according to that chart it's maybe 160 pounds heavier, but feels like way more. Maybe I'm just a pusscake. This will be going on my 04 Chevy 2500, I'm a little concerned about all that weight up front. I already had to replace one front wheel bearing $$. Hopefully I can add enough counterweight to help out the front end. I'm currently running a concrete block that weighs about 700 pounds. You guys think that's enough or should I add more? I have 4 more smaller blocks of concrete that are around 160 pounds each I can put in as well. The plow store says the e60 will handle this plow just fine and that the e60 is the "commercial" grade pump of that era. What say you guys about the pump?

    Also, I'll be starting the project on Sunday. Any tips or tricks for reskinning the old Meyers? Plow store guy says to cut the welds off and hammer the crap out of it to get the old one off. Makes sense. Then he says they start in the middle of the moldboard with the new skin, clamp it real well and work towards the outside edges. Looks straight forward, but looks like it'll be a major PITA to get the old one off. I'm pretty handy with the flame thrower and the MIG welder so that's not an issue. Just hope I can cut the old skin off without tearing in to the ribbing.

    Thanks in advance, I'll post some pics when I start.
     
  7. BUFF

    BUFF PlowSite Fanatic
    from FR NoCo
    Messages: 7,263

    The E-60 is a great pump and will handle this blade with ease. I would recommend having the spare pump gone through and refurbished, you'll be out a few hundred dollars but if you've never messed with one it's well worth the money. Also by having it rebuilt at a shop they'll run it on a test bench and make sure everything is dialed in to Meyer's spec's.

    If you have a 4" angle grinder I'd use it with a cut off wheel to cut the welds. It may take longer but you'll have next to no mishaps and a much better outcome.
     
  8. Antlerart06

    Antlerart06 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,437

    Sound like by the time you get the plow going might been cheaper and bought new and hook up plow.

    I have my first Meyers plow which has Pro Tec name on it I paid 2900 ship to me this is a new plow with there adjustable wings and I hook up and plowing

    So good luck with your project.
    I know one guy put new skin on and he over laid the old one .
     
  9. JeepCoMJ

    JeepCoMJ Senior Member
    Messages: 284

    I agree with BUFF. The E60 is hands down. The best and fastest of the old era of pumps, with plenty of parts available.

    Have one or both Pumps gone through. Pm me if you want that done.

    Torch off old skin, flap wheel all edges, sandblast the moldboard frame if you can, and stitch the new one on. Easiest to do while the pivot pins are out. Lay the new skin face down on a log, board, something like that, and lay the frame down over it, square it up, and stitch it out from behind.
     
  10. Whiffyspark

    Whiffyspark 2000 Club Member
    from SOMD
    Messages: 2,402

    He paid 500 for a new blade. Meyers are approaching $6k now. How could that possible be cheaper lol
     
  11. Moose's Mowing

    Moose's Mowing Senior Member
    from SE PA
    Messages: 198

    yeah I'll only have about 800 bucks wrapped up in this. It was much more appealing than the 2k they wanted to add a lot pro to my existing setup. I already have a working Meyer setup on the truck, just upgrading the blade. I paid 500 for the blade, an e60 (which I already have one of) a spare controller, lights wiring and a frame for some ind of heavy duty truck. I don't need any of this stuff but the blade, but for 500 bucks, it was hard to pass up a spare working pump and a second control pad. The truck side is totally done and in place already. I'm thinking I did OK on this deal. I paid just a tad over 300 in new parts for the blade rebuild.

    I plan to rebuild the spare e60 and keep it aside until the other one craps out, then swap them and rebuild the other pump. Plow store guy gave me some ideas on prices to rebuild the pumps. new c valve is like 80 bucks and then the seal kit wasn't too much. I'm sure I can handle a rebuild on those pumps when the time comes. It takes an act of God for me to take something to a shop. If I can't fix it, I'll learn how and fix it anyway. Looking forward to getting this project started.
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2013
  12. Antlerart06

    Antlerart06 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,437

    He didnt buy a new plow for 500 he bought a old used plow.Shop around you will find Meyers a lot cheaper then 6k

    On ebay there a guy selling new mold boards for 500 for Meyers to upgrade older units
     
  13. Moose's Mowing

    Moose's Mowing Senior Member
    from SE PA
    Messages: 198

    I'll take 10 of those ^^^
     
  14. Antlerart06

    Antlerart06 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,437

  15. JeepCoMJ

    JeepCoMJ Senior Member
    Messages: 284

    Jeen also sells the skins.

    Storks are really great guys to deal with.
     
  16. Moose's Mowing

    Moose's Mowing Senior Member
    from SE PA
    Messages: 198

    I live 5 miles from Storks. That's where I got the skin and parts. That's also where I was quoted just over 2k for a lot Pro. Those blades you found are skid steer units and are 6-7' not 8' They also don't include an A frame or PA rams. Those blades wouldn't have done me any good as far as mounting one to my current EX mount classic or whatever Meyer calls it. Storks didn't have any used C8's, only thing he could do for me as of last week was to get me a new lot pro.

    So back to the original question, any tips for re-skinning a blade? I'll def be cutting the old skin off, there's no sense to trying to lay the new one over top. That;ll just hold water and make it rust out faster than it did the first time. I'll tear the whole thing down then start on the skin. I'll fix any other problems as they arise. Storks is ok to deal with, I always talk to Jean Anthony, he's much better to work with.
     
  17. Antlerart06

    Antlerart06 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,437

    Back in Oct he had more Mold boards to pick from 6-7-8-9' and I said that all he had left to pick from You can use them for skids or if you have the truck side A frames already you could buy a new cheap mold board
    That's just mold Boards
     
  18. plowbabe

    plowbabe Member
    from Midwest
    Messages: 90

  19. Whiffyspark

    Whiffyspark 2000 Club Member
    from SOMD
    Messages: 2,402

    You need the a frame for the moldboard.