1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

looking for advice on engine pull

Discussion in 'Ford Trucks' started by earnies2, Sep 23, 2004.

  1. earnies2

    earnies2 Senior Member
    Messages: 136

    :help: Going to pull engine to replace oil pan, 97 with 61000 miles engine never painted from factory (now has a rotted oil pan the exhaust bolts are almost non excistant,and the block is one lump of rust : ) :cry: also going to replace all the brake lines, and trany lines : :rolleyes: . Should i replace the glow plugs,oil cooler,glow plug relay,injector o rings ,water pump ???what do you think about eastwoods rust converter primer for the block,and enamel paint for the engine? I am going to have a shop pull the trany and transfer case and change anny seals that theye need the trany is 1 yr old and has no issues, I will also clean and under coat the truck again, any secerets or helpfull ideas are welcome. :help:
     
  2. Ggg6

    Ggg6 Senior Member
    from IL
    Messages: 521

    With only 61k on the engine I would think the inj. o-rings should be fine, besides 97 has the updated o-rings. I am not a big proponent of just changing parts for the heck of it, so on the GP's, relay, and water pump I would only replace if they are bad. The oil cooler is a real pain to r/r when the engine is in the truck, but again your mileage is very low for a 97. You would be wise to install new exhaust "doughnuts on the up pipes." Take a look to see if your turbo pedistal o-rings are still good. If you still have the stock down pipe comming off the turbo this would be a good time to replace it with a new aftermarket one, and gut the EBPV. Same goes for the stock air filter and air box setup. Due to the age check any ruber fuel lines for cracks. As far as the Eastwood paint I have seen several street rods use it and it looked good. When they remove the engine, it makes it a lot easier if you remove the radaitor and core support as an assembly. I know the engine can be lifted by just loosening them but it is a tight squeeze. I would also install a V-10 trans cooler.
     
  3. earnies2

    earnies2 Senior Member
    Messages: 136

    Thanks for the reply my reasoning is age not miles i need my truck to be verry dependible it carries my tools for work and durring the winter it ploiws snow. i carry 3 yards of sand & salt plus a 9 foot blade!!15,600 lbs loaded i work 50-70 hrs a week as a hvy equptment opr/mechanic and i usually take a week off and get my truck plow and sander ready yor winter I thought since the engine is out its easy to pull the covers and do the glow plugs, the injector o rings was an afterthought becaus im already there!the water pump is origanal i'll look at the weep hole and if there is anny signs i'll change it.Thanks for the advice on the turbo o rings i'll just change them becaus i will have the turbo off .already did down pipe,what does gutting the EBPV do and whare is it i already gutted the kitty i intend on replacing all the hoses including the p/s and a/c lines ther rotted.I'll probilly install a p/s cooler instead of the bent line on the front crossmember, I already have a trany cooler 28,000 GVW stacked plate with fan wich goes into a second cooler a 16x28 cooler monted between my radiatator and condenser then it goes through a spin on filter before it goes back to the trany with a huges over size aluminium pan . Truck has a trany gauge with 2 temp sensors one on the out line and the other on the side of the unit, I also have a pyro and air pressure gauges also plan on changing front and rear brakes upper and lower ball joints axle joints and front and rear shocks and anny other front end parts i find loose
     
  4. Ggg6

    Ggg6 Senior Member
    from IL
    Messages: 521

    The EBPV stands for Exhaust Back Pressure Valve, it is the first thing the exhaust goes through when it leaves the turbo. Your down pipe clamps to it. Its a butterfly valve not unlike a throttle plate but controlled by the CPU. Its purpose is to restrict exhaust flow to load the engine during cold weather warm up. This speeds up warm up and prevents wet stacking. It is a little restrictive even in the open position, and a lot of people gut the plate and shaft to open up the flow more. Considering how heavey you are I would leave it in tact, but wire it for use as a exhaust brake. You can wire it so it closes with the brake pedal and also locks the torque converter for more eficient compression braking. Also considering your weight I woul at least put a Trans-Go brand master shift kit, and a after market torque converter installed. Just curious who did your trans? We run several ambulances 16,000+ lbs. on E-450 PSD dually chassis. the E4OD only lasts about 2 years before rebuilding again. Your cooler sounds plenty big enough. For the sake of reliability I would install a remote heated fuel filter/ water seperator. Because the stock fuel filter is plumbed after the fuel pumps not before.