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load range ???

2K views 25 replies 9 participants last post by  terrapro 
#1 ·
last storm i was slipping and sliding pretty good out of 4wheel. we are getting another storm tonight. there are no tire places open in my area on sunday so i was going to rotate my fronts to my rear temporarily until i can get a new pair tomorrow.

the problem is the set i have currently on the front is E load and the set on back is C load. i have an 8.2 boss V so it weighs in around 800lbs plus the truck and motor and the rest of the stuff up front. truck is a 2500GMC standard cab.

the question is will i be okay to run the C load up front for a night until i can get new tires tomorrow?
 
#2 ·
I don't know for sure but , I woulndn't I do know load E can hold around #3000 pounds so I'm guessing c 's only hold # 2000 & front end guess 1200 plow 800 you would be at max how much air do you have in them ? I run a 2500 with 60 front 80 psi in the back 2000 pounds in the bed
 
#3 ·
Why do you have two different load ranges ???? Next time buy the right load range... E is best for piece of MIND... Heavier side wall...I have 01 2500 H D door sticker say load range E .. I would never go less... Especially with a plow on and the weight you mite carry in the bed of the trk.... Don't cheat it will get you into trouble... The old saying PAY NOW OR PAY LATER.....
 
#4 ·
wait you have a 4X4 and you run different tires front & rear. With significant differences in wear:eek:
 
#6 ·
Absoutely not. Leave the "E" on the front. You have way more to loose than just sliding around if/when you blow one of those "C" rated tires on the front. Spin the daylight out of your tires for just ONE more day and get your new ones tomorrow.
 
#7 ·
Im not sure why you have 2 diff load ranges, but who cares.

Next time around go will a Range " E" I run "E"'s on my 1500 even lol.

I dont know why some of you guys have to beat him up on this.
 
#8 ·
go Load E (10 ply) spen the money get either the wrangler slient armor or cooper discover ATR but have good rough tread but drive smooth and quite and I agree with clapper i have E on my 1500 also but we plow with it
 
#9 ·
We plow with our 1500 also.

We run MASTER CRAFT C/T COURSERS
 
#10 ·
ptllandscapeIL;655688 said:
go Load E (10 ply) spen the money get either the wrangler slient armor or cooper discover ATR but have good rough tread but drive smooth and quite and I agree with clapper i have E on my 1500 also but we plow with it
good year silent armor is for me !! load E . but they do wear fast . 60,000 miles is how they sell them. I have never got 40,000 out of them .. I hope they stand behind them .
 
#11 ·
yes I do agree,mine have warn about 35% in 14000 but last season they took a beating with plowing and well overload in my 1500
 
#12 ·
lol yeah i can take the abuse, been around here long enough. yes i know having different tires is bad but they were a temporary summer pair and the truck doesnt get much summer use, maybe a couple hundred miles.

anyway so the status quo says no on the change around. keep the E's on the front. i wish there was a place open today so i could take care of atleast the rears.

thanks for the comments, even the abusive ones :jester:
 
#14 ·
You want tires bad dont you>

Snow today for u?
 
#16 ·
Nice!

Now we know why u want tires lol

What Part of Mich u in
 
#18 ·
OK time to get on my soap box:jester:

Who cares?
different diameter tires on 4WD is Very bad for the drive train and dangerous:eek:

different brands and types of tires have different diameters (yes even the same size tire) and since he seams to feel that rotating the tires will help his problem of sliding around in 2WD
I can only assume that his front tires have more tread than his rear tires.

Do you still say so what?

When in 4WD have you ever turned a sharp corner, what does the truck do?

well your front wheels are going around a circle and your rear wheels are going around a slightly smaller circle.

the same thing as running different tires front and back and going in a street line.

Example
with tire A in the front and tire B on the rear.

the actual diameter (not size) of tire A is 31 inches, The actual diameter (not size) of tire B is 30"
Different diameter tires travel different distances per revolution. Since that gears in the front and rear differentials are the same (again I assume). say 3.07 every time the drive shaft goes around ~3 times the wheel goes around 1 time. So for every wheel revaluation, the front wheel travels 97.38 inches, the rear travels 34.25 inches. thats a difference of 3.13 inches Thats not a problem in 2 WD. If your in 4WD the drive train connects the front wheel to the rear wheels. What happens to that extra 3.13 inches the front wheel wants to travel MORE than the rear wheel. a lot of stress on the drive train, until a tire slips to take up the difference distance that is 31.3 inches every time the front wheel goes around 10 revaluations or every 75 feet the rear tire gets dragged about 3 feet. or the front tire skids the 3 feet.

now the way it works is it does not wait until 3 inches builds up but happens constantly a wheel HAS to SLIP or SKID to make up for the difference in travel

So we have an axle skidding all the time once a wheel is skidding it looses traction in ALL directions. Like when you are going around a corner and slammed on the brakes the car (or truck) skidded strait. Thats why its dangerous.

Now we'r not locking up a wheel or using a 10 inch wheel up front with a 30 inch wheel in the back. The problem is proportional, the bigger the disparity between the wheel sizes the bigger the problem.

For all I know the actual diameter of the front load range C tire with more tread is the same as the rear load range D with less tread. But unlikely

OK I'l get off my soap box
Thanks if you read the whole thing.
 
#20 ·
terrapro

I was NOT trying to "beat you up" :jester: Apparently some people don't understand whats going on. with tires and 4WD.
 
#21 ·
yeah unfortunately im one of those that knows whats going on but im not doing anything about it....yet. :cool:

i will survive one more night...maybe...on my way home from plowing tomorrow morning ill get a new set of cooper M+S's put on first thing in the morning.
 
#22 ·
crb 2500;655700 said:
good year silent armor is for me !! load E . but they do wear fast . 60,000 miles is how they sell them. I have never got 40,000 out of them .. I hope they stand behind them .
ptllandscapeIL;655701 said:
yes I do agree,mine have warn about 35% in 14000 but last season they took a beating with plowing and well overload in my 1500
Damn, I have 40,000 or so on the set on my F-150 that I plowed with.

And the Silent Armor Pro Grades on my F-350 have 37,000 miles on them and I should get over 50,000miles. Still have 8/32" of tread or so. Goodyear considers them "bald" at 2/32", mine had 17/32" new.
I tow and haul pretty heavy with the truck during the landscape season.

It's a 50,000mile warranty.

Both trucks are aligned yearly and rotated every 5-6,000 miles.
 
#23 ·
DCSpecial;656129 said:
Damn, I have 40,000 or so on the set on my F-150 that I plowed with.

And the Silent Armor Pro Grades on my F-350 have 37,000 miles on them and I should get over 50,000miles. Still have 8/32" of tread or so. Goodyear considers them "bald" at 2/32", mine had 17/32" new.
I tow and haul pretty heavy with the truck during the landscape season.

It's a 50,000mile warranty.

Both trucks are aligned yearly and rotated every 5-6,000 miles.
best of luck to you . I use my truck year round & all for work. I have a car or bike to use when I'm not working .
 
#24 ·
theplowmeister;655762 said:
OK time to get on my soap box:jester:

Who cares?
different diameter tires on 4WD is Very bad for the drive train and dangerous:eek:

different brands and types of tires have different diameters (yes even the same size tire) and since he seams to feel that rotating the tires will help his problem of sliding around in 2WD
I can only assume that his front tires have more tread than his rear tires.

Do you still say so what?

When in 4WD have you ever turned a sharp corner, what does the truck do?

well your front wheels are going around a circle and your rear wheels are going around a slightly smaller circle.

the same thing as running different tires front and back and going in a street line.

Example
with tire A in the front and tire B on the rear.

the actual diameter (not size) of tire A is 31 inches, The actual diameter (not size) of tire B is 30"
Different diameter tires travel different distances per revolution. Since that gears in the front and rear differentials are the same (again I assume). say 3.07 every time the drive shaft goes around ~3 times the wheel goes around 1 time. So for every wheel revaluation, the front wheel travels 97.38 inches, the rear travels 34.25 inches. thats a difference of 3.13 inches Thats not a problem in 2 WD. If your in 4WD the drive train connects the front wheel to the rear wheels. What happens to that extra 3.13 inches the front wheel wants to travel MORE than the rear wheel. a lot of stress on the drive train, until a tire slips to take up the difference distance that is 31.3 inches every time the front wheel goes around 10 revaluations or every 75 feet the rear tire gets dragged about 3 feet. or the front tire skids the 3 feet.

now the way it works is it does not wait until 3 inches builds up but happens constantly a wheel HAS to SLIP or SKID to make up for the difference in travel

So we have an axle skidding all the time once a wheel is skidding it looses traction in ALL directions. Like when you are going around a corner and slammed on the brakes the car (or truck) skidded strait. Thats why its dangerous.

Now we'r not locking up a wheel or using a 10 inch wheel up front with a 30 inch wheel in the back. The problem is proportional, the bigger the disparity between the wheel sizes the bigger the problem.

For all I know the actual diameter of the front load range C tire with more tread is the same as the rear load range D with less tread. But unlikely

OK I'l get off my soap box
Thanks if you read the whole thing.
Your welcome

No one asked why (we all know )
 
#25 ·
Bashing doesn't help out here, we have a member that needs real help, not can I plow super targets with 2 3/4 ton trucks! Different tires have different load ratings even if they are both the same tire and size. It won't be a huge difference, but from tire company A to tire company B in the same size tire there might be an 80-100# difference. Go out with a flash light and look around the sidewall, your tire will say max # and at what pressure. take that number and x by 2 will give you x number. Your truck weights 5800# unless it is a diesel. Safe figure you have 65% of your weight of vehicle over the front or 3770# plus your plow weight of 800# but most plow companies don't include mounts in there list weight so add another 100#. so add 900# to the 3770# and you have a front weight of about 4670#. If your tires add up to this or more, you will be fine.
 
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