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Light hook ups

Discussion in 'Strobe Lighting' started by vincent, Nov 2, 2008.

  1. vincent

    vincent Senior Member
    Messages: 171


    Trying to figure this out before installing. Already have plow installed, will be using a snowex 575. On the spreader I have mounted 2 backup lights on each side. Also on the backrack, I have a code 3 rotator, with cat lights on the sides. Inside I will be using a whelen strobe below the rearview mirror.

    Now I have purchased a 4 switch panel with each switch rated at 30amps.

    I want to run the rotator, cat lights and inside light on its own individual switch. What would be the best way to power all the "hot wires" from each switch and lights?

    I would like to run just one power wire to the battery. I'm thinking of using a 4 pin pigtail on the spreader lights and the rotator, good or bad idea? All will have an inline fuse, 30amp.

    Any suggestions?
  2. murphyslaw

    murphyslaw Senior Member
    Messages: 443

    run a 4ga wire from the battery to the switch panel, then run 14ga wire to the rotor and 14ga to the back up lights. then wire in a cigarette lighter plug for the dash light.
  3. BlueLine Ent

    BlueLine Ent Senior Member
    Messages: 570

    Run a 6ga positive wire to the switch panel with a 50A inline fuse or circuit breaker. The switch panel has all your fuses for each circuit, so you don't need one in line for each item. Use 12ga for the cat lights and rotator, and 14 for the dash light, assuming its a self contained strobe.

    On the spreader, make sure you use a waterproof connector or its going to rot out every season.
  4. Pirsch

    Pirsch Senior Member
    Messages: 596

    I have a feeling that BlueLine has done stuff like this before! :D :drinkup: