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Lift valve on a cable operated western won't turn.

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by larboc, Nov 28, 2011.

  1. larboc

    larboc Member
    Messages: 86

    Putting together a cable operated outfit and it has trouble lifting the plow. I think I narrowed it down to the lift valve being out of adjustment, but it was impossible to turn. After a long battle, I finnaly just drilled it out and used an ezout to remove it since I have a spare pump housing laying around. However I can't get the valve out of my spare either. Any tricks or am I going to have to order a new one?
    I'm going to go to my local western dealer tommorow to see if there is one on the shelf, if not I was planning on just making one out of stainless. Any reason not to? I'd make it long enough to be able to use a jam nut like the other side uses.

    I've got an older western setup on a scout that uses a steel valve with a set screw to hold it in place that I was going to borrow, but it was stuck as well.

    What causes the plastic to stick? Atf soak in after awhile?
  2. meborder

    meborder Senior Member
    Messages: 142

    Sorry, I can't help ...

    I'm sorry that I cannot help much, but I am very intrested what you might find.

    I have one of these old beasts as well, and while the lift cam is currently working, it does leak fluid externally.

    I just got the plow and was going to fix it but was afraid of turning a working plow into a non-working plow by attempting to fix it. At this point, i'm convinced to leave it alone so long as it agrees to work.

    I'm planning on fixing it in the spring, but I'd like to know what i'm getting into before I do.

    As for removal, the first thought that came to mind was a "slide hammer". Drill a pilot hole, then thread in the tap attachment for the slide hammer and give her heck ....

    not sure if it is appropriate, but if it isn't perhaps someone will tell us.

    ... subscribed ....
  3. larboc

    larboc Member
    Messages: 86

    Are you the guy that had the fluid coming into the cab via the cables?

    After having a couple apart to put this one together, I am confident in saying it would be tough to screw it up.
    Pull the 4-screws to remove the cover and expose the leaky valve and remove the lift valve's cable. Should be a flat bladed screw that holds the valve lever assembly (# 59) on, remove it and the lever.
    Then take a 7/8" socket and remove the # 58 hub nut. With it will come a shaft with a cam on the end. The cam on the end slides the shuttle back and forth which actuates the lift cyl. but you don't need to remove the shuttle.
    If you just pull out that hub, there aren't any adjustments to screw up when you go back in with it as long as you note the orientation of the cam lobe when you pull it out and make sure it goes back the same way, not 180 degrees off. If you put it back 180 off it will just make it work backwards and you can put it back the way it's supposed to be, no harm done. There's two o-rings in there that are probably your issue.


    FWIW my local western dealer has a lift valve p/n 49064K on the shelf so I should be able to fix my problem tonight.

    Read the troubleshooting section of the instructions for a cable pump on westerns site, they describe adjustments and theory of operation very nicely. If you have +/- 45 degrees of travel out of the lift valve lever now, you shouldn't need to touch the lift valve like I do.
    To remove mine I tried ez-outs and they just stripped the plastic until I actually used the corresponding drill bit for the ez out to drill all the way through (with check valve and shuttle removed of course) and set my propane torch blasting down in the bore to loosen the plastic. Came right out then! I slide hammer wouldn't work since it needs to unthread. I think drilling all the way through for the ez out loosened the tolerance of the valve to the bore and allowed it to loosen up and come out.
  4. meborder

    meborder Senior Member
    Messages: 142


    Yea, I'm the guy who was the fluid chasing up the cable. Thanks for the info!

    The problem has subsided, for the most part. I'm thinking maybe those 0-rings dried out over the summer and are now seating a little better now that i am working the plow up and down a few times a week (just to move the truck around). That and the cover plate is loose enough where the fluid can escape.

    I'm going to try and hold off and fix it in the spring ... i'm just not taking chances. My simple little projects seem to have a way of snowballing on me somehow :)

    I appologize for my confusion on what valve you were talking about, I didn't realize until now that you were working on the valve behind the cam.

    I'm glad you were able to get new parts and get yours fixed!