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lift ram seal replacement help

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by birddseedd, Nov 21, 2012.

  1. birddseedd

    birddseedd PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,516

    Put new seals in, used a flat head to push beyond the threads. put packing nut back on. the nut seems to be a quarter inch above where it was sitting before. is this normal or did i not get the seals all the way in?

    thanks
     
  2. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    We need to know what kind of plow you have to get a clear picture. There are various types of gland nut seals on varios styles of lift rams.

    Late model lift rams, and angle rams, have the same gland nut & seal. I know there is an upgraded version where the seals are actually blue, this is what I have been using this year.

    Sounds to me like you may have an older system, possibly an Isarmatic?

    The biggest problem I find people have / mistake people make, is to pull the gland nut over the pin end of the ram. No big deal pulling the old one off but putting the new one on that way just buggers it. The hole in the end of the ram where the pin goes is always damaged by the pin and has burs on it which damage the new seal. Always pull the piston right out and then change the gland nut / seal from the inside end. You will notice there is a nice taper on that end too that makes it easy to get the seal on the piston easily. Most of the new rams have a split ring retainer and a collar but some have a sort of packing thing that acts as a shock absorber when the piston gets to end of travel. Those can cause problems when they disintigrate.
     
  3. birddseedd

    birddseedd PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,516

    cable controled which i believe is Isarmatic. i did pull them off the pin end. not sure how to remove the retainer clip. looks pretty hard to get on and off. i put the seals on one by one and kinda lifted it over the hole to not damage it. was pretty carefull.

    last year when i did it i didnt push the seals in thinking the gland nut would do it. they got stuck on the threads and i couldnt get the gland nut all the way in and it kept blowing out. now i took a flat head and pushed htem in as far as i could before putting the gland nut on. im just worried that i did something wrong again as the glad nut seems to have a quarter inch more it shoudl go. is the gland nut supposed to be up a tad when the seals are brand new?
     
  4. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    According to the mechanic's guide http://library.westernplows.com/westernplows/pdf/62880.pdf this particular ram assembly has a loaded gland nut. That means that the seal is compressed by the nut unlike the newer style that are self-tensioning, in that case it doesn't matter how tight you make it as tension has no effect on seal. In your case you have to use a torque wrench to set the preload at 35 ft/lbs or 1/4 turn past snug. You can read this yourself on page 5-11

    So to answer your question, yes it is normal for the new seal to cause more threads to show. These newly exposed threads indicate that you have lots of seal compression to use up as time goes by. If you had no threads left then the seal is worn out.

    Be sure not to tighten that nut too much or it will clamp down so tight on the ram piston that it will restrict movement. You should be able to push the ram down by hand if someone holds it in down position.
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2012
  5. birddseedd

    birddseedd PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,516

    thank you very much for he info.

    now to figure out why my 3way valve seems weird
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2012