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knowledgeable 6.0l guys

Discussion in 'Ford Trucks' started by ddb maine, Dec 13, 2011.

  1. ddb maine

    ddb maine Senior Member
    Messages: 832

    at a dealer,

    drove an 04. f550 75Kmi a 7 out of 10 barely any rust even on the frame and leaves. It needs either an egr cooler or headgaskets. The ect and eot temps stayed within spec, but when it hit full boost, 33 psi, it lost power and started blowing white smoke... First instinct is to run. second thought is damn that truck is in really great shape minus the motor which is about to get rebuilt... how long does this fix last? and if I get it with all new parts what are the chances of keeping it running well. dumping the ford gold for ec-1.
    I would say installing parts like bulletproof egr and such is possible, and If it is neccessary I may be able to talk the dealer into installing them..
    Need some opinions and reasons. I will obviously be ignoring those of us who arent knowledgeable on the subject.


    I want experience stories.
     
  2. that's a bad egr cooler my friends 06 did the exact same thing last winter i have not had this problem yet thank god. If there are no emissions checks in your state just delete the cooler all together swap out the ford coolant like you said for cat coolant or a good elc coolant and buy a coolant filter 129 bucks well spent.Also when doing all this you might want to replace the oil cooler too because that ford coolant can get in there and plug that up too just to be safe.
     
  3. s. donato

    s. donato Senior Member
    Messages: 314

    so far so good with mine. picked it up ~2 months ago now. i love towing with it which is the reason i got a bigger truck. from what i understand about the 6.0 the main reason it is problematic is b/c the engine was designed for a higher cetane rating b/c that was what they were told to do from the Gov. well the gov never raised the cetane and the motor went into production. i started using the ford cetane booster as per my mechanic and i think the truck runs better... it could all be in my head though ;-)

    oh and like nicky said get rid of the gold coolant. that was the first thing i checked on my truck and i had the green stuff when i bought it ;-)

    i got mine b/c it was a good deal and even if i need to do a couple k worth of work to it - it still was in better shape then any 7.3 i could find. YMMV.

    good luck.
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2011
  4. ddb maine

    ddb maine Senior Member
    Messages: 832

    Good to hear. They are putting a 12/12k warranty on it. so that takes alot of worry out of my mind.

    People want way to much money for the low mile 7.3l.
    One guy wants 25,500 for an 02 with 23k on it... and it looks like it has seen its day. "yeah its alot of money, you will never find another one of these 7.3's with low miles like this. Those 6.0's are nothing but junk." I think this economy is pulling all the crazies out of the woodwork.
     
  5. s. donato

    s. donato Senior Member
    Messages: 314

    Yeah I got a 3 year or 30k powertrain warranty on mine which was another reason I went for it. Also keep in mind if you are financing it vehicles over 6a years old are not financeable. Mine was allowed to be financed bc of the warranty.
     
  6. ddb maine

    ddb maine Senior Member
    Messages: 832

    its through a credit union i use. its already been approved just waiting on the p&s.
    a 3/30? through the dealer or aftermarket?
     
  7. s. donato

    s. donato Senior Member
    Messages: 314

    financing was the hardest thing for me buying mine.

    Ford motor company warranty. :) yeah that covers me to 100k, so i am doing some basic stuff to my truck through my mechanic and the major stuff it will go to the dealer for.

    the only thing i am going to do - i just bought a mag-hi-tech trans pan for it and will be replacing all the hoses on the truck in the next few weeks.
     
  8. drp

    drp Senior Member
    from ontario
    Messages: 170

    33 PSI is 10 PSI higher than min boost and 6 PSI over max boost. If it has been boosting to this level the turbo vanes are most likely stuck and the pressure may have stretched the TTY head bolts. This would account for the white smoke. This equals blown head gaskets. Motor not blown does not need rebuild only replace the gaskets and fix the turbo vanes(clean the turbo)
     
  9. that's awesome there giving you a warranty, i was in the same boat as you lots of people i know had 7.3's and that's what i had my heart set on but could not find a good on so i found my 6.0 and i will never go back.
     
  10.  
  11. wewille

    wewille Senior Member
    Messages: 311

    pm sent. Bullet proof products are awesome. I gave you my number in pm. feel free to call. Also I saw your pm before seeing this...
     
  12. mustangman02232

    mustangman02232 Senior Member
    Messages: 148

    id have to agree with this, usually the EGR cooler goes when the oil cooler gets pluged, I would get a scan guage 2 to moniter the EOT and the ECT as well as the FICM voltage. or you can go to the edge insight monitor and add fuel preasure and EGTs to it.

    start with flushing the cooling system with restore and restore plus, a cummins dealer (a real one not a dodge dealer) should have it. after its clean flush with ~40 gal of distilled water, get a CAT EC1 compliant coolant (NOT precharged) and get a filter, i got mine from dieselsite for like $100, well worth it

    get the turbo cleaned, would probably want to install ARP studs over the stockers, preasure test the EGR (the 03/04 "round" oil cooler is actually better then the 05-07) new ford oil cooler, there is an upgraded blue fuel preasure spring you should upgrade in the regulator. only use RACOR filters for fuel and oil, fuel additive every tank, syn oil is prefered (i run rotella 540) and if you run 4 oz of REV x every other change it will keep the injectors happy. deleteing the cat would also help the truck, a lot of the people run straight pipes, but im cutting mine off with a friggin sawzall once i get a chance cause its to friggin loud.

    as said, people want stupid priceson 7.3s.once you get used to the fuel economy and power of a 6.0 you wont want to go back
     
  13. ddb maine

    ddb maine Senior Member
    Messages: 832

    I have a sgII and the ect and wot stayed within 15* even under heavy load on hill. I ran it for 30-40 min on the highway. the first 20 min was within 2*, 30 min - 8* and the remainder was between 10*-15*.

    Is there a tsb regarding the oil cooler- Egr cooler failure?
     
  14. s. donato

    s. donato Senior Member
    Messages: 314

    hey guys not trying to hyjack the thread. but do you know how to do that easliy. i have a SG2 and i am trying to get those setup and their directions $uck :confused:
     
  15. drp

    drp Senior Member
    from ontario
    Messages: 170

    Mustang your post is right on.
     
  16. mustangman02232

    mustangman02232 Senior Member
    Messages: 148

    hit the bottom right button and scroll through till it pops up to "X-guage". then go to edit X guage and enter codes for what you want, theres more of these on the net but here is a few

    FICM Main Power (Volts) (Should be 47-48)
    TXD: 07E02209D0
    RXF: 0462450906D0
    RXD: 3010
    MTH: 0064010000000
    NAM: FMP

    VGT Duty Cycle (%)
    TXD: 07E022096D
    RXF: 04620509066D
    RXD: 3010
    MTH: 00647FFF0000
    NAM: VGT

    Engine Oil Temp.
    TXD: 07E0221310
    RXF: 046245130610
    RXD: 3010
    MTH: 00090005F05F ( Use this if the EOT is not reading right 00090005FFD8)
    NAM: EOT

    Trans. Fluid Temp.
    TXD: 07E1221674
    RXF: 046205160674
    RXD: 3010
    MTH:000100080000
    NAM: TFT
     
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2011
  17. s. donato

    s. donato Senior Member
    Messages: 314

    Mustang - i owe you a cup of coffee!!!
     
  18. mustangman02232

    mustangman02232 Senior Member
    Messages: 148

    its 7:45 pm.....deff time for beer over coffee ;)

    make sure you double and triple check the codes when you enter them, i have 6 stored in mine, i think 2 of them worked first shot :doh:
     
  19. ddb maine

    ddb maine Senior Member
    Messages: 832

    I havnt read much about head studs in terms of install. Can they be installed without removing the heads? replace the studs one at a time? And this requires much of the top side of the engine to be disassembled?
     
  20. you can change out the studs with the cab on but its a lot of work your gonna have to take the whole top half of the motor off intake, turbo, intake manifold, egr cooler, valve covers, the ficm, the list goes on and your gonna have to put dimples in the firewall to get the back studs in and that's if the gaskets are still good.