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isarmatic MKIII wont stay up

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by JoshAK, Jan 20, 2012.

  1. JoshAK

    JoshAK Junior Member
    from Alaska
    Messages: 8

    I hate to say it, but my plow has some erectile dysfunction. Everything works good, swing and lift, but the ram wont stay up. I've cleaned the filter, put new o rings on the lift and check valves and changed the fluid. I appreciate your help!
     
  2. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    Is the mark III the cable operated plow or does it have the electric controller? If it has the electricly controlled valves then you need to replace your S1 valve. There is a ball check built into S1 that holds the pressure in the lift cylinder. You might find if you pull out the S1 that you can blow it out with compressed air. Sometimes there is just a little debree caught in the valve and it can be cleared. This is a very common problem and easy to fix.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2012
  3. JoshAK

    JoshAK Junior Member
    from Alaska
    Messages: 8

    Its cable controlled. When I can get to it again I'll pull it apart and see if I can blow it out.
     
  4. fordman22

    fordman22 Senior Member
    from ohio
    Messages: 102

    is your lift cable adjusted properly?
     
  5. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    That is a good point about the adjustment, these cable units need regular "tweeking" on the adjustments. Could be if the cable has stretched or shifted so that the neutral position of the joystick is holding the down valve open a bit. Just in case you don't have it here is a link to the mechanic's guide. Note that they listed two versions, the long and the short, I think they are refereing to the length of the control cables but not sure. This is the short version but if you need the long just say so and I will hook you up. http://library.westernplows.com/westernplows/pdf/13497_020088.pdf
     
  6. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    I took a minute to try and see the differance between the long and short version of the mechanic's guide. It looks to me like the short one means "brief" and the long means the "detailed" version of the book. The long version seems to have more and better quality pictures, also has lots more information on general maintainance. So you are better off to print off the long version and get the whole package. http://library.westernplows.com/westernplows/pdf/62880.pdf
     
  7. JoshAK

    JoshAK Junior Member
    from Alaska
    Messages: 8

    It has new cables, and every now and then it works correctly for a couple cycles. Even with the cable disconnected and the lever in the neutral position, the ram will come down.
    Thanks for the link to the manuals, I had the short one, so I snagged the 'detailed' one.
     
  8. fordman22

    fordman22 Senior Member
    from ohio
    Messages: 102

    can you see if fluid is leaking?
     
  9. JoshAK

    JoshAK Junior Member
    from Alaska
    Messages: 8

    There are no leaks
     
  10. fordman22

    fordman22 Senior Member
    from ohio
    Messages: 102

    did you pull the cover off the pump housing and see if the valve is slightly down?
     
  11. JoshAK

    JoshAK Junior Member
    from Alaska
    Messages: 8

    With the cable disconnected and the lever it attaches to in the neutral position, the ram still comes down. I havent found any position of the lever to work. The spring in the check valve seems to be OK, i just dont know where else pressure could be bleeding off.
     
  12. fordman22

    fordman22 Senior Member
    from ohio
    Messages: 102

    on the very bottom of the whole pump where the pump bolts to your bracket. remove that (if there is fluid in the ram its gonna come out) and there is a o ring there. check and see how that o-ring is
     
  13. JoshAK

    JoshAK Junior Member
    from Alaska
    Messages: 8

    I was finally able to get to my shop, the road was drifted shut all week. The o ring on the bottom looks ok, I cleaned a bunch of crud from the bottom plate. I also took the pump and valves out and blew compressed air though everything. Still no change, its an old unit, I'm wondering if the the check valve is just worn out.
     
  14. fordman22

    fordman22 Senior Member
    from ohio
    Messages: 102

    that could be your case. have you tried adjusting it at all?
     
  15. JoshAK

    JoshAK Junior Member
    from Alaska
    Messages: 8

    Yes, I have. Unless I'm just doing it wrong, but I've done it so much I should have gotten lucky and got it right by now.
     
  16. meborder

    meborder Senior Member
    Messages: 142

    Mine did something similar when i got it, just the opposite, it wouldn't go down.

    turned the check valve in about 1/8 of a turn and that fixed it. Seems like they work differently in the warm vs the cold.

    i'm looking at pg 4-7 in the "long version" of the manual. It sounds like you are pretty familiar with the unit, but it is on the back side of the pump housing just behind the 3-way valve.

    maybe you've tried that, but that is what got mine working.
     
  17. JoshAK

    JoshAK Junior Member
    from Alaska
    Messages: 8

    update with the fix

    I finally got frustrated with it and took it to a shop. Turns out the check valve was bad, the only part that I thought was good, and didnt change. It snowed a bunch the day it was fixed, then the transmission went out in the shop parking lot.