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Is there a way to "overdrive" my Fisher belt driven pump?

Discussion in 'Fisher Engineering Discussion' started by JFon101231, Jan 13, 2011.

  1. JFon101231

    JFon101231 Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 422

    Everyone on here seems to love this old style hydraulic systems, but the thing is slow as hell, and I find myself shifting into neutral to rev the motor so I'm not sitting there all day. Also have scraped a few lawns as the time it takes to get the slack out before I'm approaching the pile takes too long. Any suggestions/swaps would be helpful, thanks!
     
  2. sweetk30

    sweetk30 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,588

    well first is the system installed as per fisher directions ? or a custom pile of parts like lots of people are doing these days ?

    if its on correctly aspr fisher designed it the next step would need to be a pressure test of the system with a hydrolic pri gauge that can go over 1800 psi.

    the system when cold and warm is around 1750-1800 psi .

    if you dont have that then you might have a control valve thats simpley out of adjustment letting pressure blead off.

    or it can and prob neds a new pump as thay do wear out and are not rebuildable.

    overdriving the system will not realy get you much of anything in the end.

    if you need to test the system search here in the fisher section on pressure test.
     
  3. JFon101231

    JFon101231 Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 422

    I bought the truck as is, and it seems fine with two exceptions:
    1) The lift ram does "float down" a little once in a while while driving
    2) The quick disconnects for one of the angle rams is leaking at the connection on the upright. I don't understand why - are there supposed to be any o-rings etc.?

    Only other thing that seems a little strange is that when checking the fluid in the pump, it was under a suction, i.e. the cap was "stuck" on there, is that normal? I don't have access to a gauge like that, i'll have to ask around I guess.
     
  4. sweetk30

    sweetk30 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,588

    year/make/model truck . and old speedcaster or mm1 style plow ?

    then i can get you the link for the install and parts off fisher site so you can review.
     
  5. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    lift ram float when driving is caused by a worn valve body - use the carry chain when traveling (I know it's a pita, but that's what it's for).

    The hydraulic quick connects always leaked- the male had no orings the female has internal ones- if it bothers you replace them- not rebuild able.

    My Chevy with the Speedcast had the same issues- never got around to changing the VB...
     
  6. JFon101231

    JFon101231 Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 422

    88 Chevy K2500 (light duty) - Speedcast
     
  7. JFon101231

    JFon101231 Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 422

    Oh, didn't know that was what it was for, i thought it was a safety thing in case the pins came out of the ears or something to keep it from flying down the road. For now, it is much easier to just tap the lever up every 10 mins - sometimes it does it but not always.

    OK, on the connects - guess i'll get around to it.
     
  8. sweetk30

    sweetk30 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,588

    find your combo and clickthe parts or install link to the right.

    its the full directions from the install.

    http://library.fisherplows.com/publications.asp?cat=105

    as for a gauge here ya go. need over 2000psi range. then thread on a old fitting to clip in to angle port . and search the test in fisher section. its been covered a lot.

    http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=hy...e+gauge&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313

    and the plow floating down could be a cable out of adjustment or worn valve unit. thay pop up on ebay a lot.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2011
  9. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    FWIW- allowing the plow weight to rest on the hydraulics while traveling sends shock (from bumps) to the valve which accelerates the wear on those seals... that's why they have a carry chain to take the weight off the hydraulics. The MM1 styles had carry chains too. Insta-act (3 plug) did away with them but I'm not sure if it was a cost saving measure (saving chain that operators didn't want to be bothered to use anyway) or no longer a necessity with a change in the valving system. for full disclosure, I rarely use the carry chain on my MM1 either.
     
  10. JFon101231

    JFon101231 Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 422

    Learn something new every day. Can't say I've ever seen someone hop out to hook it up, but I guess when I'm traveling more than a few miles I will going forward.

    I'll try out the suggestions by SweetK30 over the next week or so, have to replace the gas tank strap and figure out why I have 0 brake fluid first...

    Jeff
     
  11. sweetk30

    sweetk30 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,588

    zero brake fluid. = prob the front to rear supply line behind gas tank. super common item to fix on 88-up.

    i have done a ton of them. payup
     
  12. JFon101231

    JFon101231 Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 422

    Well - I'm inclined to say your right, but why would that drain the front side of the MC, unless maybe it passed over the divider when the truck was inclined or sloshing?

    That line had been replaced at some point by the PO, and it was half-assed. The line wasn't clamped or tied to anything so it looks like it just flops around, and like Murphy himself designed it, runs right next to a half full gas tank, that as mentioned, snapped the rear strap... :angry:
     
  13. sweetk30

    sweetk30 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,588

    master is front resivor = rear brakes = smaller capacity

    master is rear resivor = front brakes = bigger capacity.

    seems weired but thats the way it is. the drum brakes require a lot less fluid volume than front calipers. so less capacity in the master.

    10+ years as mechanic and in the heavy salt belt i have fixed just 1-2 of them payup
     
  14. JFon101231

    JFon101231 Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 422

    No, I do a fair share of shadetree stuff and understand that - I mean that both cavities in the MC were dry...
     
  15. sweetk30

    sweetk30 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,588

    oh then you might just be doin a whole set of lines then . check the left frame rail just behind the upper control arm just behind the inner fender.

    thats were on most thay come down and split off from there. huge rust colection spot,.

    good luck :dizzy:
     
  16. UpstateNYer

    UpstateNYer Member
    Messages: 30

    I have run my Fisher MM1 off my stock power steering pump on my 1998 K1500 for three years now without a single problem. It is super fast and powerful.
    UpstateNYer
     
  17. JFon101231

    JFon101231 Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 422

    Maybe a stupid question, but using P/S fluid or ATF?
     
  18. UpstateNYer

    UpstateNYer Member
    Messages: 30

    I use a high quality power steering fluid from NAPA. The original plow pump used ATF. I did some research and found out that power steering fluid is pretty much just a light grade hydraulic fluid. I would not let anyone tell you any different. Think about it, your truck has a pump (PS) and a steering box (hydraulic ram) for turning the steering linkage. I gotta laugh at these guys who spend hours fabricating pump brackets and paying big bucks for those Fisher pumps. Everything you need is mounted right on the truck from the factory and new power steering pumps only cost about a $100 bucks new.
    UpstateNYer
     
  19. sweetk30

    sweetk30 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,588

    only thing i would do if doing this setup is add a p/s fluid cooler to the system.
     
  20. Detroitdan

    Detroitdan PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,937

    can I get some more info on using the power steering pump?